Bosnia and Herzegovina: Mostar

Mostar, Bosnia: bosnian coat of arms, fittingly framed by bullet holes
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Upon our return from Medjugorje we set out to see the famous Stari Most, built in 1557 and commissioned by Suleiman the Magnificent, Sultan of the Ottoman Empire.  The bridge is perhaps the most notable landmark in all of Eastern Europe, famous for its unusual arch and the crazy local divers who jump 24 meters from its zenith into the Neretva River.

En route to the bridge we visited the stunning Karadjoz-bey mosque, also built in 1557.  The interior of the mosque was so simple, yet so beautiful.  It lacked all the ostentatious elements found in other grand mosques which was refreshing.

Poster City for the Senselessness of War

Mostar, Bosnia: roughly translated as, "you'll probably be killed by a landmine if you go in here"
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Unfortunately, the mosque was almost completely destroyed during the Yugoslav war.  We took a dizzying walk up the spiral staircase of the minaret for amazing views of the city.

The old town is charming, filled with cheap souvenir shops and an intensely Turkish feel.  Before crossing the bridge into the Croat side of town, we viewed a depressing photography exhibit on the history of the bridge, showing its gradual deterioration and eventual destruction by Croat forces on November 8, 1993.  One of the saddest and most symbolic events of the entire war.

Mostar, Bosnia: bullet holes
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The bridge was completely rebuilt in 2004, using many of the original stones that were plucked from the river after its bombing.  In 2005, UNESCO inscribed the bridge and its immediate vicinity on the World Heritage List.

We hung out around the bridge for a while, watched a few of the divers pretend like they were jumping off, but instead recoiling and asking tourists for money to make them jump.

After that act got tired, we grabbed a hearty lunch (cevapi - small grilled rolls of minced meat, usually beef or lamb), and got yelled at by an elderly Muslim who was mad that we both tried taking a picture of him eating without asking.  I guess I can't blame him.

Mostar, Bosnia: functioning apartment
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As we left the old town, we came to the former front line of the war.  Known as the apocalyptic trail, we walked probably two+ miles past the most incredible destruction I have ever seen in my life.  Impossible to describe.

Just building after building completely obliterated.  And still standing as if the war were still going on.  It didn't matter what type of building - apartment building, church, government building.  All shelled to no end.

It's a weird feeling being so close to buildings where people were killed and family lives destroyed.  Most of the buildings have impromptu gardens where flowers are sprouting in these dens of death.  Even the buildings that are still functioning have countless bullet holes and shrapnel piercings on their walls.

Mostar, Bosnia: destruction in the shadow of the croat cross
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People still live in these buildings.  It must be difficult, having lived through the war, only to come home everyday to see reminders of the savagery that went on only 13 years ago.

There are a few buildings that have been reconstructed with generous financial aid from many countries, such as the Netherlands, Japan, and the United States.  But these are far and few between.

It seemed like this stretch of destroyed buildings would never end.  It's really quite amazing.  Shocking actually.  And, ultimately, genuinely sad that so many innocent lives were lost, homes were destroyed, and, yet, nothing has really changed.