The Cinque Terre - The car-free riviera

Day 1: VENEZIA TO VERNAZZA

We arose early in Venezia so we could get to the train station for our 9:30 a.m. train to Milano.  If you have never been to Venezia before, you should know that the express vaporetto to the train station does not start running until after that time.  Despite paying 50 Euro for a water taxi, we still missed the train.  Oh well, lesson learned.

Our new train pulled into Milano at 2:10.  We changed trains and found our compartment only to discover that a very stinky lady (B.O.) was one of our traveling companions.  Oh well we did survive thanks to one of the other travelers who opened the windows when she had nipped out for a few minutes.

Vernazza is a gorgeous village.  A storm was on it's way when we arrived.  We dropped our things in our room and stormed the castle, well a tower anyway.  Fantastic views!

We made our way down a ways to Ristorante Belforte.  This is the place in the Rick Steves show with the submarine strength door to keep out the waves during storms.  We had pictured ourselves there having a romantic drink on their balcony ever since we had first seen that episode.  We couldn't have been more disappointed!  Not in the view of course, but by the service or complete lack thereof.  Firstly the music was so loud that we had to yell at the girl to ask if it was OK to go through for a drink.  Secondly she never came out to ask us what we wanted, my husband had to go in and tell her.  Thirdly, she practically tossed our drinks on the table, and without so much as a word turned and walked back inside.  Finally, when we went inside to pay (without a bill) we had to wait a further 5 minutes in the blaring music for her to continue ignoring us and fold napkins or some such thing.  It would have been better if it were self-service, since we practically were serving ourselves anyway.  These people (the chef also) were bordering on being hostile towards us, and we just felt as if we were a burden to them.  View or no view we will never return to Ristorante Belforte.

After a quick internet stop and a piece of fresh baked focaccia from the forno (yummy), we wandered down to the harbor.  Here we could detect an ever so slight feeling of panic in the air.  As I mentioned earlier, a storm was on it's way.  The local men were in a frenzy, bringing all of the boats in and up onto the piazza.  Some of the men in their haste had just shed there clothes right there, and were doing this job in their sea-soaked, now transparent, falling down, tighty-whities.  This is a sight and experience we will never forget.

After a good chuckle and a photo-op, we began the climb back up to Ristorante Castello where we had made a reservation earlier.  Mario was our waiter, and his service was impeccable and the food was very good.  As we were leaving we got to talking with Mario.  When it came up that we were from British Columbia, Canada, he told us how much he loved it there.  He said he had done a short stint on a cruise ship there many years before.  As we talked he poured generous glasses of Sciacchetra wine, this on top of the bottle of wine that we had already drunk.  Thankfully we did make it down the stairs just fine.

As we ate our gelati on the breakwater, the waves crashed wildly on the other side, and the sky was thick with black clouds and humidity.  The storm was upon us.  A perfect time to go to bed.

Day 2: LAUNDRY, HIKING, & ACCUIGHE

We rose early and ventured forth to do the dreaded chore of laundry.  We thought that this would take about an hour, boy were we wrong.  Since I hadn't done laundry in Venezia, I had just about everything that needed washing (which still wasn't a lot as I had packed light).  While the suds were working up a storm, we ate a stale pastry next door.  After 45 minutes the dryer shut off, and much to my horror my clothes were not even remotely dry.  It turns out someone had put the dryer on the wool setting.  We could not afford to spend another second on laundry, so I hung them all around our room to dry while we went hiking.

We hit the local stores for picnic supplies: Mortadella, cheese, juice, water, buns, and apples.  With our validated Cinque Terre cards in hand, we set out into the National Park bound for Corniglia.  Up a few hundred stairs and some steep hills, we reached our first viewpoint and photo-op.  A stunning view down to Vernazza.  It did not take long for us to become very thankful that we were not doing the hike to Monterosso al Mare.  This was plenty hard enough.

Although it was overcast, it was very hot and humid, and there were remnants of the storm hanging in the air.  The trail was steep, and very narrow.  Most of the other hikers we met were very considerate of this, and we would take turns moving off to the side to pass one another.  However, you must watch out for certain tourists who do not move over for anyone, or you'll likely end up in the sea far below.As we zigzagged a path towards Corniglia, we passed through olive groves.  Yet another pinch-me moment.  How many will there be on this trip?

The viewpoint from above Corniglia was a welcome sight as it meant that our grueling hike was nearly over.  Once in town we located the main square, planted ourselves on a bench and had our picnic while we people-watched.  Afterwards, we went to the Santa Maria Belvedere viewpoint and watched the lightening over the sea.  It was due to this that we decided to take the train to Manarola.  We soon regretted that decision as we began our descent down, down, down all of the stairs to the train.  Maybe the hike would have been easier.

After a quick stroll through Manarola, we were off to the Via dell'amore and Riomaggiore.  This is the most romantic stroll ever!  We stopped at a beautiful outdoor cafe right on the via and had some espresso and an INVOLUNTARY nicotine fix (we don't smoke, but always seem to be in a cloud of cigarette smoke), we were strolling again, holding hands, and stopping periodically to gaze into the Ligurian Sea and steal a kiss.

At last we reached Riomaggiore.  Not a lot to see in this workaday town.  However at the very end of the trail before you enter the town we discovered a great wine bar.  Bar & Vini a Pie de Ma has a dramatic terrace over looking the sea.  Perfect to relax with a glass of vino and a snack.

We caught the train back to Vernazza where we promptly e-mailed everyone about our day's accomplishment, and made reservations at Trattoria Gianni.  When we got back to our room, to my utter horror, all of my freshly washed clothing was gone.  But where?  Out of the corner of my eye, I spotted a note on a scrap of paper.  It was from the infamous Martina Callo, who we had yet to meet (her father had let us in).  It seems that when she came in to tidy the room she saw all of my clothes, and knew that they would never dry in there.  So she took them home to her mother to put out on her clothesline (undies & all) outside.

I set off to find Martina's house, and with any luck, my clothes.  While I was there I would pay the bill to save us disturbing her in the morning.  Without to much problem I found the place, but that would not be end of this story.  A young man answered the door, and told me in Italian that Martina was not home.  I said in English (because I only knew enough Italian to get by in a restaurant) that she had left me a note stating that she had taken my clothes.  He must have misunderstood me thinking I meant that she (his sister as it would turn out) had stolen my clothes.  For he after emphatically saying "NO NO Martina NO TAKE YOU CLOTHES!" began to shut the door.  As he did this, much to my relief, his father came and immediately recognized me.  Mr. Callo invited me into their humble home.  As he led me through to the main room, he explained to his son who I was, and that indeed Martina had brought my clothes there.  Martina's mum began pulling my clothes in off the line as soon as she saw me.  She then promptly got out the iron and set it up in front of her husband and myself on the kitchen table.  As soon as I realised that she intended to iron my clothes, I said "No signora, you have done enough already.  You are molto generosa."  However, it was to no avail.  She ironed all of the ironable clothing, including, yep, you guessed it my undies.  All right there in front of us.  As she ironed, the brother checked the train schedule for our early morning departure.

Relieved to have my clothing, and more than a little flustered from the experience, I headed back to Johnny with the story of my adventure.

After freshening up, and putting on some clean, dry, ironed clothes, we headed for Trattoria Gianni.  I could really use a glass or two or three of wine by that point.  Everything on the menu sounded so good, and we didn't know what to order.  We settled on the set menu, as this gave us a chance to sample just about everything.  We began with the best seafood salad ever! We also had more acciughe (anchovies), prepared a few different ways.  YUMMY!  By the end, which we thought would never come because they kept bringing dish after dish, we were stuffed.  So stuffed that we had to force down our gelati (hee,hee).

After and exhaustive day, and with bellies full again, it was time for bed.