Varkala - Dramatic cliffs, relaxed people
From Dan does Earth in Varkala, India on Sep 10 '06
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It was a rainy morning in Kovalam, so I did precious little before getting a taxi to Varkala. I wasn't sorry to leave Kovalam, but had enjoyed my time there.
I went a Lonely Planet recommended place in Varkala, and the taxi dropped me there. I checked that the room was ok, and wasn't disappointed, so negotiated a good deal of 1400rupees for 4 nights, and settled in. There's a small and organised gathering of bamboo huts in a tranquil, tree surrounded courtyard. All are en suite, and have little touches of detail that are half tasteful, half endearing (hardwood dressers, and pink mossie nets!) There's also a mini porch with a table and couple of chairs, so it's laid back and friendly in a gently communal way. I heard some English voices so I'll hopefully chat later.
The climate here is much more conducive to sleeping/dozing it's a bit dangerous
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I encountered my English neighbours (two girls on a gap month) when looking for somewhere to eat. They seem very and we swapped some India anecdotes. They seem quite mature for their years as they know how to communicate so (not to sound too old) I'm sure they'll do well and thoroughly enjoy Uni. Both are pretty too, which helps!
Also chatted to a couple of London based guys called Paul and Dan, who had both been to Oz and had lot's of tips and enthusiasm for my visit. They had a few stories about India too and were decent chaps. Might get drunk with them tomorrow night. All in all Varkala is a good place to chill out for a few more days, and there are more people about. As it's still kind of monsoon season the seas have been swollen and the beaches are pretty narrow strips of sand. All good tho!
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Next day...
It was raining pretty hard when I woke up, so I settled down for some lie-in kippage. It was great; the climate here is much more conducive to sleeping/dozing it's a bit dangerous. Still, once the rain had stopped, I dragged my not-at-all sorry arse out of bed and went in search of breakfast. Not with a spear or anything, just looking for a cafe.
Found one very nearby and the chap was friendly, but not overbearing, and gave me plenty of info about the area. He was also at a loss when I said that I was an atheist and promptly tried a bit of gentle conversionwork. God is like the wind dontcha know: you can't see him, but you can feel his power. Ah, but can you go godsurfing? Very deep. I stuck to my guns in a friendly way and all was good in the hood.
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I then went to meet my neighbours on Black Beach (the centre of non-activity here) and indulged in the ever awesome sunbathing-reading combo. This was manageable until I was a ball of sweat and had to swim. The currents here are crazy strongand if you got too far out you'd be royally buggered. I braved it to a level where it was refreshing then made my exit looking as bedraggled as someone with short hair can. The life guards are particularly whistle happy and definitely not Indian Hofs.
After a while the rains came (Again) and shelter was sought in a cafe that did good cakes and pancakes. Nice. The girls were good company, but not the kind I'd 'go for'. I had forgotten how young 18 yr olds look!
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I joined them for dinner again at the Funky Art Cafe, where there is no art, and minimal funk, for more fish and a couple of drinks. The two English guys Paul and Dan turned up and it looked like we were going to be on for a biggish night, but a powercut soon put paid to that. The heavy rains also put a lot of punters off, so it was a quiet one after all.
Next day...
Time is really flying by at the moment and, despite the onset of monsoon rains from straight after breakfast until dinner, I'm thoroughly enjoying Varkala. The monsoon, the fact that it puts a damper on most activities aside, is in itself a showpiece of nature, and entertainment in its own right. It's one of those gentler reminders of who is (or rather who isn't) in control.
So I spent a portion of my day chatting with Babu, the owner of Funky Art Cafe, and also some English guys who are headed north,like me, after Varkala. Taxi buddies! It was a very chilled out (and cool because of the rain) afternoon, and more opinions and anecdotes bout India were exchanged. This included from Babu who, it would appear, is a bit of a player. He says he's now in love, but I reckon she'll be a memory in a couple of weeks.
The evening was spent in most part having dinner and a few drinks with the English chaps Frank, Dan and Tom. It soon became a more open environment and loads of tables joined together. I met some interesting characters in this way, including a humanitarian worker on holiday from the Sudan and a Portuguese photographer who was a little obsessed with trying to capture images of tension from areas of unrest, civil war and trbal fighting. He was recently in Kashmir snapping border patrols on the sly! Bit of a nutter, but in a good way. There were a lot of western people sitting at tables that, over the course of the evening, became joined together and the drinks flowed and chins wagged. I finally called it a night at 4am, but still felt quite fresh this morning!
Last full day...
There was a bit of early sun, so I made use of it and charged down to Black Beach after a rapido (by Indian standards) breakfast. It was really lovely weather and the sea was not as rough as before but still refreshing once a good sweat had been worked up by sitting or lying. Robin, the girl who had been in Darfur, Sudan, was also there and we vaguely chatted, or chatted vaguely, as both of us had books. She seemed a little in need of company, and I could sympatise with this having finally got settled into my solo travelling mode.
After the clouds rolled in I went to find the English lads to see if they were still on the same itinerary as me. They are highly indecisive stoners and desperate to get back to Goa, so still not sure. I decided to go ahead and book my tickwet anyway, and one night's accomodation in Alleppey. I agreed to meet them later at dinner.
We met a the restaurant and they had decided against the backwaters trip as it would slow their return to Goa. They the found out, however, that the train they needed didn't run the next day and that it'd have been just as quick to take the backwater ferry, zip to Cochin and get a train from there. I felt sorry for them, but equally pleased with my decision!
Dinner was awesome and consisted of Malabari fish curry and coconut rice. Yum! This was washed down, or course, with Kingfisher beer.We then, all tired from doing nothing, went to watch some football and have a couple more drinks. They continued to, rather conspicuously, smoke the strong smelling, sticky hash they'd acquired and soon the match finished and all of us went back to our respective beds. Them doing so in a far more laboured fashion than me!
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