First and Last day in Fes
From A journey of a thousand miles begins today!! in Fes al Bali, Morocco on Nov 11 '06
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After a not too exciting breakfast, I am equipped with my map and I start out in the hopes to find a bank and begin exploring from there. After two turns I’m completely lost in the maze that is Fez. I come to find out there are over 9,000 little streets (more like sidewalks) no cars, or scooters, only people and donkeys. There is someone selling something on every little street, you could walk and turn and walk and turn all day and still be lost in the gigantic life size game of “Where are you”. Luckily a 19-year-old boy, Abdul found me wondering about and offered (for no money) to show me “all important things in Fez” I
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had read about these “guides” and was told to just say no thank you, but he seemed innocent and sweet and I trusted him immediately. So I agreed – not that I had much choice since I would have NEVER made it out to even find my hotel again, let alone see anything. We walked and talked and walked for 4 hours. He showed me all the mosques, all the Riads, all the Hammans (bath houses) all the markets, it was great. We had a coffee – my legs were on fire from all the hills and steps and walking up and down. They are still burning – but it was perfect. I really believe I got the best unofficial guide in all of Fez. He was so kind and made sure no one harassed me. After much debate he finally accepted the gratuity I offered and said goodbye. I feel very lucky for that experience, as I witnessed other “guides” and tours that looked much more rehearsed and boring. Since he knew everyone we got to go and see rooftops of places that other people were not able to see. I’m sure someone is “lucky” to find him (or him finding them) often, but it was really fun. Exactly what I wanted.
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I was going to spend more time and not leave until the late afternoon on the train, but I feel like I’ve seen what I came to see. The last 3 cities are really all the same for me in terms of culture and smells and markets and food. And being a woman, I’m not allowed to sit outside in the cafes and that is what I enjoy doing most – so I think I’m done with Morocco. I’m having dinner at the Riad tonight so I’ll be able to get an early start on the day.
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