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I love Mexico City

From Magico Mexico in Mexico City, Mexico on Jun 26 '08

Ciccia* has visited no places in Mexico City
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Scenes from Frida Khalos house.
Scenes from Frida Khalos house.
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Flying into Mexico City is an experience in itself. The city, at night, seems to stretch out forever, like a never ending illuminous microchip, lighting up the black sky. This sprawling metropolis has a bad reputation but I left it wondering what all the fuss was about.

I only had 2 days in which to explore the City. The day after I arrived, I decided to make the most of my sleepless night and get an early start. I made my way to Frida Khalo´s house in the area of Coyoacan and it was as I expected: a bold statement of colour and subversion amongst the City`s bourgeousie. Although I prefer Diego Rivera´s work, Frida Khalo was unmistakably proud of Mexicó`s indigenous past and present, which she brandished unashamedly, along with her open and transgressive sexuality. Her house is not only a national monument but also a beautiful insight into her life, feelings, desires and emotions. It´s not to be missed.

Mexicans laugh at death as a kind of defiance, an acknowledgment that even if the worst thing has happened to you, that doesn´t mean we cannot still find a reason to laugh and above all, to celebrate.

My whistle stop tour also included a visit to the Museum of the Diego Rivera´s Murals. His murals are fascinating but incomprehensible unless you understand the symbolism of some of the characters he depicted. The Museum is home to only one of his works, " Dreaming in the park on a Sunday Afternoon" ( I am certain that this is not the correct title but it is something along these lines!). The mural represents the history of Mexico. From the left to the right, Rivera painted characters that have had some influence in Mexico´s history from the Conquistadors to the revolution. The mural is so detailed and intricate that it would take too long to recount each representation. The most interesting character by far, was the "Catrina"- death, for Mexicans, is an elegantly dressed female skeleton. This, I found interesting because of its connotations. Death is celebrated here, because the passing of life is not to be mourned but rather, the beginning of a new existence in another world is to be embraced. It`s a beautiful philosophy that I admire. Mexicans laugh at death as a kind of defiance, an acknowledgment that even if the worst thing has happened to you, that doesn´t mean we cannot still find a reason to laugh and above all, to celebrate.

The Palacio de Bellas Artes is an impressive neo classical building that was designed by an Italian. More of Diego Rivera`s (along with other famous Mexican muralists are displayed on the second and third floors). Here you can see a recreation of the mural that was commissioned by Rockefeller and which was destroyed because Rivera refused to change the anti- USA themes of the mural. Again, each part of the mural tells a fascinating story of Rivera`s political views.

After a night in a gay bar (the owner of the hostel was gay and that day there was a gay pride festival) which, on my insistence, was followed by a visit to a Cuban salsa bar, I visited the City´s Anthropological Museum which is essential viewing. You will learn about the amazingly diverse ethnic groups of Mexico, both present and past. The Guajira are an example of this and one of their legends is an interesting outlook on how the earth was created. They believe that God sang and danced for three days and nights and this was so beautiful and inspirational that he created the world. Music and dance makes me feel elated and so this version of creation is for me, extremely believable. One thing to bear in mind is that this museum is huge, so get there early and take your time. I would also recommend going there on a Sunday as the Museum is in the City´s biggest park which becomes a promenader`s paradise. There are hundreds of stalls selling edible treats and candy floss that looks like wispy dolls hair. A live salsa band was playing whilst I was there which is a reason in itself to go.

I loved dancing tango in Parque Mexico, a park that was originally dedicated to General Martin, the liberator of Argentina. I am an addict of tango, there really is nothing that matches being able to feel an intimate and profound connection with somebody that you only just met. It´s sensuality and passion are what keep me sane and it`s as beautiful to watch as to dance. Get there on a Sunday at 17.30 and observe how dedicated Mexicans are to all musical art forms.

I loved Mexico City. As in all of the Latin countries I have been to, the people are the most intriguing and fascinating element. To me, they are what make a country. In Mexico, I have found out that you are never alone. In the moments of despair, there is always somebody to remind you that life shouldn´t be taken too seriously. There is always somebody who wants to find out about your life, why you are here and whether you like Mexico. The City has such a great atmosphere and unfortunately, two days is not enough time to see even a fraction of the treasures that it has to offer.


 

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