A Day in Ghent

We had been planning to go to Antwerp today, but we decided to go to Ghent instead because everyone knew it was a sure thing. Furthermore, we had heard that every time the Burtons go to Ghent, something interesting happens, which was quite intriguing. We had scrambled eggs for breakfast and listened to NPR, and after a minor miscommunication with Allison, we piled into the car around 11:30 for the hour-long drive to Ghent. On our way, we talked about crazy dreams we've had over the last few nights and, as always, looked for cows and sheep outside the window. We arrived at Ghent and followed the signs through the old city to a parking garage at the Vrijtagmarkt, Friday Market, where Larry and Allison usually leave the car. It's called the Friday Market but is actually open on days other than Friday, and on Sunday it is open for a Vogelmarkt -- bird market! I know! Apparently there is a lot of demand for birds in Ghent. We checked out the birds, fish, and rabbits, and then we pulled Alex toward the town square.

Before today, Mechelen was my favorite town, but I knew right away that Ghent would be giving it a run for its money. The Gross Markt is fabulous, with a cathedral on one side, a huge bell tower on the other, and fabulous bistros in between. There is a fountain in the middle, and the sun was once again shining like crazy. It is wonderful. First, we visited the cathedral, which is huge and gorgeous with interesting stained glass. We also paid to see the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, a polyptych (many-paneled painting) by the van Eyk brothers about the prophesies in the book of Revelation. We got to listen to a really thorough, interesting audio tour about the painting. It made me think that I should go to the National Gallery when I get home and spring for the audio tour so I know what the hell I am looking at. I love art, but it is so much better when you know what is going on in the painting. This one has around 12 different panels that survived two fires and two world wars, including a time that it was hidden in the early '40s from the Germans but found anyway and then hidden in a salt mine in Salzburg as part of Hitler's collection of over 7000 paintings. Now it is back in Ghent and all sorts of interesting. The detail is amazing.

Out of nowhere, the guy playing guitar for tips in the plaza came over to our table and placed us in charge of watching his guitar.

After the cathedral, we had lunch a Bridge, an outdoor cafe in the Gross Markt. We joked about how Europe does not understand about children, but then our jokes came true when the waiter brought a literally broiling hot plate of pasta for Alex. Good Lord! Anyway, we all ate and drank and it was beautiful outside and perfect. We finished and Larry took Alex out into the plaza to play in the fountain. Then out of nowhere, the guy playing guitar for tips in the plaza came over to our table and placed us in charge of watching his guitar while he got a beer from the bar inside. I blame myself -- I did make eye contact at one point. Anyway, when he came back, he sat down and talked to us about this and that. We learned that his name was Patrick and he was from London by way of Dublin, and then he invited his Norwegian friend Sven to come sit down. Yeah, this was the weird thing that happened in Ghent today! The guys were pretty funny, and it was certainly unexpected and fun to talk to strangers on such a perfect day in the Gross Markt of Ghent.

Patrick left the table to go sing a song about conspiracy theories and the US, so we took the opportunity to blow that taco stand and head over to the bell tower. Ashley, Alex, Larry, and I took the elevator to the top floor to get some great views of the city. It was a good experience, but any time you have a two-year-old under your care and are 15 or 20 stories up, it changes your attitude about heights and open windows. Anyway, after the bell tower, we went back down to street level and headed over to the guard castle of Ghent, and Ashley and I headed inside to check it out (Alex wanted ice cream instead of the castle, which was surprising, since she loves castles!). This one was pretty cool -- lots of weapons and a horrifying/fascinating display of medieval torture devices. We also visited the privy used by the castle guards (a hole in the side of the wall of the tower).

After the castle, everyone was ready to pack it in, so we walked back to the garage. I used the public restroom at the station, which I knew in advance was co-ed, but as a female from the US, nothing prepared me to walk into a room and see two guys using urinals to my left. Yow! I ran into the nearest stall and composed myself. Seriously, co-ed public bathrooms? I am starting to miss the US. We drove back home from Ghent without incident and grabbed the makings for vol-au-vont, which is the ultimate comfort food: chicken pieces and chicken meatballs with mushrooms in cream sauce, served over rice. I went for my long run for the week while Ashley and Larry played with Alex, and when I got back, we all watched videos and listened to NPR and then had dinner in the kitchen. Ashley and Alex went to bed around 10:30, but the rest of us stayed up a little longer. I won the contest today because I was super energized by my run -- I didn't go to bed until midnight. To be honest with you, I forget what we are doing tomorrow, but I am sure it will be a lot of fun.