Fly to Kathmandu - sightseeing tour

October 19, 2007 / Delhi to Kathmandu

We got up at 8am and had a nice buffet breakfast at the hotel. Our flight was not until 1:15, but you need to be to the airport 3 hours ahead of time. Security in the Delhi airport is very stringent. All checked luggage goes though an x-ray machine and then a machine puts a strap around it. All cabin luggage is searched it twice, and all people are “patted down” in addition to walking through metal detectors. Finally we navigated through all the proper lines and made it to the gate.I noticed a Wilderness Travel luggage tag on a lady’s hand luggage, and I started talking with her. She and her husband were joining 3 other couples and going on the same trek as we were during the same time. We boarded Air Sahara Flight which left Delhi at 1:15pm, and arrived Kathmandu at 3:00pm. In the airport there were porters everywhere trying to carry our luggage outside and get a tip. We had to push our way through them as we knew someone was meeting us. We were taken to our hotel, The Shangri–la Hotel. We organized our luggage, as we were leaving behind warm weather clothes and some souvenirs we purchased in India.

A driver came to the hotel to pick us up to go to a welcome dinner. There were no seatbelts in the car. I requested a seatbelt and was told it was not necessary in Nepal. They meant that there was not a law for passengers in the back to wear them, but I insisted that the cars I rode in while in Kathmandu have seatbelts, and I was accommodated. That evening we attended a welcome dinner this evening with a local guide at a traditional Nepalese restaurant and were entertained by a cultural dance performance. As we entered the restaurant a red dot was put on our forehead. That is a symbol of protection. We sat on cushions on the floor and each food item was brought one by one. Our guide told us that there is a lottery each year. Each November you can put your name in to get one of the 3,000 to 5,000 Visa’s for the Untied States. He said “ …if you win the lottery you go to heaven!” His brother went to heaven, and now lives in the US working in a department store in Gettysburg, PA..

October 20, 2007: Day 2 Kathmandu

Our guide was Babu Ram and our driver Krishna. Nepal is a country with 18 million people in an area 900 x 200 kilometers. There are 61 ethnic groups with 53% speak Nepalese. 80% are Hindu and 15% are Buddhists and they live together in religious harmony. Once a traditional medieval city of breathtaking Newari architecture, Kathmandu is now fully grown into a bustling urban capital. Nevertheless, one still finds magic, especially in the ancient, narrow streets and in countless temples and shrines where Buddhist and Hindu iconography mix in fascinating ways.

Buddhism is seen as an offshoot of Hinduism. Buddha was a Hindu Sadhur (holy man) who found the path to enlightenment. In Katmandu Valley Hinduism and Buddhism are completely intertwined. In the Khumba Region (Everest Area) where we trekked the Hindu elements are minor & the Buddhism is more similar to Tibetan Buddhism. There are no central authorities in Buddhism. Each monastery has its own leader or lama. The Dali Lama of Tibet is one of the most famous Lamas but is just one of many. Hinduism and Buddhism share many beliefs including reincarnation.

Today we went sightseeing. In hidden corners of fabled Kathmandu, the ancient past lingers on in a maze of narrow streets crowded with turmeric sellers, small golden temples, wandering cows, and traditional workshops. We first visited the bustling Buddhist center at Bodha, where new monasteries have risen to serve Tibetans in exile. In the center is a World Heritage Site, Bouddhanath, one of the largest stupa’s in the world. This stupa is 1400 years old. People light candles….offering light, gives you light back. Bodhnath is surrounded by a thriving Tibetan community. These must be turned clockwise, the direction in which you should walk around the stupa. The stupa is solid. 2 or 3 times a month lime and saffron is poured over top of it as a cleansing auspicious offering. The stupa therefore gets bigger and bigger. 3 years ago 32” of the dome was removed. The large eyes on the stupa are always watching. There are no ears or mouth as he does not hear or speak evil. There are over 35 monasteries around the stupa. Prayer wheels line the mandella-haped base. On all the prayer wheels it’s written “Om mani padme hum.” The writing is in ancient Sanskrit. As we walk we can listen to a recording of this chant , which makes it a very peaceful calm place. Click here to hear the music we listened to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qy40XasSjmQ.

Om Mani Pedme Hum (or Om Mani Pedme Hung), is the most common mantra, recited by Buddhists, painted or carved on rocks, prayer wheels, or yak skulls and seen around most usually. Speaking the mantra loud or silently, spinning prayer wheels with the mantra, and carving mantra into stones are the usual practices.

Om, symbolize one's impure body, speech and mind, and also the pure noble body, speech and mind of a Buddha. Buddhism claims that an impure body, speech and mind can be transformed into pure ones of a Buddha, who was once impure and later by removing their negative attributes, achieved enlightenment on his path.

Mani, the jewel, symbolizes factors of method, compassion and love, the altruistic intention to become enlightened. "Just as a jewel is capable of removing poverty, so the altruistic mind of enlightenment is capable of removing the poverty, or difficulties, and of solitary peace. Similarly, just as a jewel fulfills the wishes of sentient beings, so the altruistic intention to become enlightened fulfills the wishes of sentient beings", the Dali Lama says.

PADME means lotus and symbolizes wisdom. Growing out of mud, but not being stained by mud, lotus indicates the quality of wisdom, which keeps you out of contradiction.

The last syllabus, Hum, means inseparability; symbolizing purity & can be achieved by the unity of method and wisdom.

In Buddhism there are 4 Noble Truths. The first truth is that life is suffering i.e., life includes pain, getting old, disease, and ultimately death. We also endure psychological suffering like loneliness frustration, fear, embarrassment, disappointment and anger. This is an irrefutable fact that cannot be denied. It is realistic rather than pessimistic because pessimism is expecting things to be bad. Instead, Buddhism explains how suffering can be avoided and how we can be truly happy. The second truth is that suffering is caused by craving and aversion. We will suffer if we expect other people to conform to our expectation, if we want others to like us, if we do not get something we want,etc. In other words, getting what you want does not guarantee happiness. Rather than constantly struggling to get what you want, try to modify your wanting. Wanting deprives us of contentment and happiness. A lifetime of wanting and craving and especially the craving to continue to exist, creates a powerful energy which causes the individual to be born. So craving leads to physical suffering because it causes us to be reborn. The third truth is that suffering can be overcome and happiness can be attained; that true happiness and contentment are possible. If we give up useless craving and learn to live each day at a time (not dwelling in the past or the imagined future) then we can become happy and free. We then have more time and energy to help others. This is Nirvana. The fourth truth is that the Noble 8-fold Path is the path which leads to the end of suffering.

In summary, the Noble 8-fold Path is being moral (through what we say, do and our livelihood), focusing the mind on being fully aware of our thoughts and actions, and developing wisdom by understanding the Four Noble Truths and by developing compassion for others.

The moral code within Buddhism is the precepts, of which the main five are: not to take the life of anything living, not to take anything not freely given, to abstain from sexual misconduct and sensual overindulgence, to refrain from untrue speech, and to avoid intoxication, that is, losing mindfulness.

Karma is the law that every cause has an effect, i.e., our actions have results. This simple law explains a number of things: inequality in the world, why some are born handicapped and some gifted, why some live only a short life. Karma underlines the importance of all individuals being responsible for their past and present actions. How can we test the karmic effect of our actions? The answer is summed up by looking at (1) the intention behind the action, (2) effects of the action on oneself, and (3) the effects on others.

Buddhism teaches that wisdom should be developed with compassion. At one extreme, you could be a goodhearted fool and at the other extreme, you could attain knowledge without any emotion. Buddhism uses the middle path to develop both. The highest wisdom is seeing that in reality, all phenomena are incomplete, impermanent and do no constitute a fixed entity. True wisdom is not simply believing what we are told but instead experiencing and understanding truth and reality. Wisdom requires an open, objective, unbigoted mind. The Buddhist path requires courage, patience, flexibility and intelligence.

Compassion includes qualities of sharing, readiness to give comfort, sympathy, concern, caring. In Buddhism, we can really understand others, when we can really understand ourselves, through wisdom.

Buddha is a spiritual friend to guide you. It can be anyone.

Next we visited the Hindu holy sites, World Heritage Sites, at Pashupatinath along the Bagmati River. There are 3645 temples of Shiva there. A bull is on the outside of each temple as the bull carries her wherever she needs to go. Cremations take place 24/7 on the banks of the river whose waters eventually flow south to join the mighty Ganges, holy river of India, and the ashes and remains of person’s clothing are slid into the river. It is believed that to be cremated here releases one from the cycle of For 13 days the family wears white, sleeps on straw and eats one meal a day. Then they have a feast. It was indeed a morbid sight to me. Sadhur’s (Hindu Holy men who give up all their possessions) wander the site. However, they pose for pictures and ask for rupees!

Pashupatinath is the holiest Hindu pilgrimage destination in Nepal. There are linga images of Shiva along with statues, shrines, and temples dedicated to other deities in the complex. A temple dedicated to Shiva existed at this site in AD 879. However, the present temple was built by King Bhupatindra Malla in 1697. A gold plated roof, silver doors, and woodcarvings of the finest quality decorate the pagoda construction. Guheswari Temple, restored in AD 1653, represents the female "force". It is dedicated to Satidevi, Shiva's first wife, who gave up her life in the flames of her father's fire ritual.

A circuit of the Pashupati area takes visitors past a sixth-century statue of the Buddha, an eighth century statue of Brahma the creator and numerous other temples. Some other places to visit are Rajrajeswari Temple, built in 1407, Kailash with lingas more than 1,400 years old, Gorakhnath temple, and the courtyard of Biswarup. There are rows of Shiva shrines and Hindu pilgrims from all over South Asia offering puja worship to Shiva, tile Lord of Destruction.

The Bagmati River flows close by and the Arya Ghat cremation grounds are here. We strongly advise photographers not to take photos of cremations and of bereaved families. Sadhus, sages who follow the lifestyle of Shiva, may be seen covered in ashes and loin cloths. They ask for money in case you want to take their photos. The main

Pashupatinath courtyard may be entered by those of Hindu faith only.

The tour ended with a visit to the well-preserved medieval city of Bhaktapur, a World Heritage Site, and a showcase for the genius of 17th century Newari artists. Bhaktapur Durbar Square is one of the world heritage sites in the country which reflects the city's rich culture, art and architectural design. It is also the central setting of the city for architectural monuments and arts.

Bhaktapur Durbar Square is a conglomeration of pagoda and shikhara style temples grouped around a fifty-five window palace of brick and wood. The square is one of the most charming architectural showpieces of the Valley as it highlights the ancient arts of Nepal. The golden effigies of kings perched on the top of stone monoliths, the guardian deities looking out from their sanctuaries, the wood carvings in every place-struts, lintels, uprights, tympanums, gateways and windows, all seem to form a well orchestrated symphony. The main items of interest in the Durbar Square are:

The Lion Gate : Dating as far back as A.D. 1696, this gate is guarded on either side by two huge statues of lions. Alongside, there are two stone images of Bhairav (the dreadful aspect of Shiva) and Ugrachandi (the consort of Shiva in her fearful manifestation).

The Golden Gate : The Golden Gate is said to be the most beautiful and richly moulded specimen of its kind in the entire world. The door is surmounted by a figure of the goddess Kali and Garuda (the mythical man bird) and attended by two heavenly nymphs. It is also embellished with mythical creatures of marvellous intricacy, In the words of Percy Brown, an eminent English art critic and historian, the Golden Gate is the most lovely piece of art in the whole Kingdom: it is placed like a jewel, flashing innumerable facets in the handsome setting of its surroundings. The gate was erected by King Ranjit Malla and is the entrance of the main courtyard of the Palace of Fifty five Windows.

The Palace of Fifty five Windows : This magnificent palace was built during the reign of King Yakshya Malla in A.D. 1427 and was subsequently remodelled by King Bhupatindra Malla in the seventeenth century. Among the brick walls with their gracious setting and sculptural design, is a balcony with Fifty five Windows, considered to be a unique masterpiece of woodcarving.

Today is the Hindu festival Dashain. This is the Nawami (Ninth) day, a day before the real dashain. The ninth day is called 'Nawami'. Dashain is the longest and the most important festival of Nepal. According to the legend, the bloodthirsty Goddess, Durga conquered evils on the Dashain day. Huge amount of animal sacrifices take place during the festival in temples and in home to please the Goddess Durga. Some people may take such animal sacrifices negatively but they might forget how they came by their meat on their plate! There are lots of western countries consuming mass amount of meat, animals are slaughtered in factories by the hundreds and thousands.

Vegetarians put 4 sticks in a pumpkin and made it like a goat and slash it’s head.

9th Dashain Day : The Taleju temple at Hanuman Dhoka is opened for the public only once a year on this day. Thousands of people go and pay their respect to the goddess day. Temples of mother goddess are filled with people from dawn till dusk. On this day the official military sacrifices are held in the 'Kot' courtyard at Hanuman Dhoka. The government allows foreigners to witness this function so hundreds of tourists and diplomats eagerly gather here. Animals mostly black buffaloes are slaughtered by hundreds to honor Durga the goddess of victory and might and to seek her blessing. Military bands play war tunes, guns boom and officers with beautifully decorated medals in full uniform stand there. When the function ends the courtyard is filled ankle deep with blood. On this very day the god Vishwas Karma, the God of creativity is also worshiped. All factories, vehicles, any machinery instruments and anything from which we make a living are worshiped. They also give sacrifices to all moving machinery like cars, airplanes, trucks etc. to get the blessing from goddess Durga for protection for vehicles and their occupants against accidents during the year. The entire day is colorful. We saw blood all over the streets, and cars, bicycles, trucks, and bus’s

We saw women waiting in line with huge jugs at outdoor communal water faucets. Our guide told us that the town turns on water in each section of town for only 1 ½ hours each day.

After lunch at a café in Bhaktapur, we went back to our hotel. Hotel Shangri-la . We had dinner at the hotel, and took Diamox in preparation for our increase in altitude tomorrow. We took it every day until we got to Pangboche..