Yangon , better on second viewing

Church spires in Yangon
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Early start for the Yangon train and this time a member of the railway staff took me to my coach and seat. Slightly nicer train but still a long tiring journey. This trip was most memorable for the two monks sitting nearby. They ate the entire time we traveled (both were already fat) and read some racy tabloids most of the time. I got the impression that religion in Burma is a business (not the only country in the world where that happens).

It was a brief walk from the railway station to my hotel (the Thamada). This hotel is much more to my liking. It is 6 stories, and has a ‘modern’ look to it. … like 1960s. Lots of timber floors and timber trim, nice prints in the bedroom. The Lonely Planet Guide makes a big deal about getting rooms at the back because of the noise, but I had a room on the 6^th floor front and loved it. I could see several church spires (from this viewpoint, it appeared to be a Christian city rather than a Buddhist one), lots of trees, the railway station and the city off to the right. Rooms at the back have no view of any interest. The rooms are small but efficient and very clean. $22 a night includes a choice of breakfast (American, European or Asian). I particularly liked the fact that this did not involve filling out and signing checks .. the waitresses were friendly and made me feel welcome. I was there 3 nights and two groups passed through .. staying only one night ; they seemed more civilized that the groups on the boat .. possibly because this hotel is not 5 star.

Shwedagon Paya
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Yangon was looking a bit better from this vantage point. Actually it was just across a bridge, only 5 minute walk from the Traders where I stayed on my way into the country. The neighbourhood around the Thamada is slightly more prosperous, the pavements (sidewalks) not nearly as treacherous. There were three places to eat in the immediate area, a mini-market, a cheap Internet shop, several watering holes (the Ritz Café is a nice little spot) and the smart clean Shan Noodle Café a delight. It is an easy walk to the zoo and up towards the city lake.

Shwedagon Paya
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Yangon’s major tourist attraction (and important centre for Buddhism) is Shwedagon Paya a large complex of buildings, including a huge pagoda covered in gold and encrusted with jewels. This is a fascinating place which really deserves at least a half day to explore and enjoy. There are many people there performing religious rituals but the complex is so large and spacious that I did not feel as though I was intruding on their privacy. Although I am pleased with my photos, I realize that they do not do justice to this unique place. I look forward to seeing it again.On this brief second trip to Yangon I enjoyed it more ; it is a multi-ethnic city which seems more Indian than Oriental .. it certainly has all the chaos that one associates with India. But there are fascinating things to see and as I learned how to get about with less hassle, I enjoyed it more and more. Away from the centre there are many trees and it is an attractive place.

Child under the bell
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I followed up on an article in the newspaper and went to an art gallery in the Strand Hotel to see an exhibition called Elephant Parade. It is based on the same idea of the Cow Parade which was so successful in Switzerland (and later Chicago) in 1999. Elephants were made from a stock design (in this case lightweight wood) and then decorated by 20+ local artists. The results were great fun .. I particularly liked Watermelon Elephant which had a green watermelon skin belly and its back was a lovely bit of red watermelon complete with seeds.

Shwedagon Paya a different sytle
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Wednesday 28 November

I walked to the Reclining Buddha (Chaukhtatgyi Paya) which is north of the city lake and as it happens, a very long walk indeed. This is an interesting place because it seems to be popular with Burmese rather than tourists. The statue is in a large complex of monasteries, so there are monks of all ages in great numbers – and for once, these Burmese monks were not begging. En route to this place I walked past a piano factory where men were building and repairing pianos in the forecourt. I was reminded of the film (The Piano Tuner) which I have not yet seen. Odd coincidence.

Open space at Shwedagon Paya
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Thursday 30 November

Very easy flight back to Bangkok and a clever taxi driver who managed to get me to the hotel in record time at the peak of the evening rush hour.

Although my first few days in Burma were pure culture shock, I had recovered by the end of my fortnight there and think that I really like the place. I will definitely return and I recommend that others see it if possible.