Och Aye, McGregor

PUBLISHED IN THE OCTOBER 2008 ISSUE OF COUNTRY LIFE

Och Aye, McGregor

McGregor is a bonny wee place indeed.

By: Karen Watkins

Karen Watkins visits McGregor for the first time and finds this Boland village is a bonny wee place indeed.

“Ley lines run through the village,” says Anne Binos of Mulberry Studio and Art Gallery, “and they probably make it ideal for creativity and healing.”

That’s her explanation anyway. Anne and her husband James came to McGregor for lunch in August 2002, saw a house for sale and bought it. And whether it’s because of the ley lines (supposed paranormal sources of energy) or not, they are two of many people, including well-known chef Myrna Robbins, journalist Marilyn Poole and Jill Varndell, who exercises the Queens’ horses in Hyde Park, who have made, or are going to make, McGregor home.

I came across McGregor by coincidence while in Robertson for the Wacky Wine Weekend. I’d booked a tractor ride into the mountains and the views from up there were spectacular, with McGregor and the Indian Ocean on one side and McGregor, Robertson and the Langeberg on the other.

Captivated by it all, I decided to return and explore McGregor properly with my friend Steve. We loaded two bicycles and arrived on a stunning mid-winter evening.

If I could write a poem it would be about the village as it was in the 19^th century, full of whitewashed cottages in half-wild gardens, all separated by irrigation channels where water burbled and trickled. Could it be true that there are ley lines here?

We stayed at the four-star Trossachs Guest Lodge, probably named after a nature reserve near Loch Lomond in Scotland. Perched on a hillside, its stone and thatch buildings look over vineyards to the distant Hex River Mountains. Not surprisingly the theme of the lodge is Scottish. Our friendly hosts, Maxi Koorts and Ida Swanepoel, showed us to our free-standing unit with its tartan furnishings and huge fireplace.

The following morning, fortified by a good night’s sleep, we set for a bicycle ride in the air crisp, pre-dawn air. Afterwards, we satisfied our ravenous appetites with breakfast on the veranda, overlooking a pond, fruit trees and aloes, decorated with Malachite Sunbirds.

Wanting to know who the original McGregor was, we then drove to the information office. Here friendly, helpful Heather told us the village was initially named Lady Grey, but to avoid confusion with the Lady Grey in the Eastern Cape, the villagers renamed it in 1904 after their well-loved pastor, the Reverend Andrew McGregor.

Driving past the ‘shopping mall’ – six quaint shops wrapped around a corner - we recognised a friend among a media group on their whirlwind tour of the Overberg. “We’re going to Rhebokskraal on an olive tour, want to join us?” they asked.

The tour was fascinating. Led by Annalien van der Colff, who paints, plays guitar and sculpts, it taught me much about olives and olive production.

Back at McGregor, we went to Green Gables Country House, where Steve had chosen to watch New Zealand versus South Africa at rugby. According to Heather, “If you visit Green Gables and can’t find anyone to serve you, just help yourself and leave the money behind.”

Leaving Steve to watch the match, I carried on exploring and wandered into Tebaldi’s Restaurant to view its eye-catching décor. Tebaldi’s leads into the grounds of Temenos wellness Centre, and it was a surprise to find this retreat in the middle of the village. Surely a retreat should be in the sticks? But its quiet arbours, ponds, running water, ducks, peacocks and foliage soon had me feeling at peace. Benches invited me to sit and meditate for, as Temenos’s brochure states, ‘Often the best gift we can give ourselves is to do nothing and not feel guilty about it’.

In need of a caffeine kick, I stopped off at Deli Girls, where I sat on the veranda with my cuppa to watch the world go by. But the village seemed deserted. Was I the only person not watching rugby?

Later, wandering around the back roads, I stumbled across the Old Mill Lodge, a converted 1860s farmhouse with the village’s original watermill nearby, both designated National Monuments.

Something you notice in McGregor are the stone channels at the sides of the roads. These are for the leiwater which regularly flows from the dam at the top of the village down to the homes for use in the gardens.

“Did you go to the market?” asked Heather at the tourism bureau. But I’d missed it. Apparently no sooner does the market open than it closes, sold out.

Continuing my explorations, I came across the house of breadmakers Lies Hoogendoorn and Hester van der Walt. I knocked on the door and with typical village hospitality they invited me in. Lies talked of her childhood and her decision not to follow in her father’s footsteps. ”He was a baker who worked long hours,” she said “and now here I am baking for pleasure. We bake about 80 loaves a week.”

The next day, Jacie and Miranda Oosthuizen, owners of Groot Toren Nature Reserve, took us on the 4x4 trail, rated one of the top 10 of South Africa by Drive Out magazine.

As we were slowly ascending the rough road, Jacie suddenly stopped and showed us a plant, asking where the flower is. It turned out to be Protea humiflora, which has the flower hidden at its base. Calling it the ‘sombrero bush’, Jacie peeled away the petals to the core shaped like a hat.

Jacie is passionate about the environment and took us to what he calls ‘the garden’, where 12 or 15-year-old protea bushes stand tall. He then showed us a rare Leucospermum harpogonatum creeper; the ‘McGregor pincushion’, and pointed out the black insects munching the leaves. From a camping next to the reserve, we walked along a gorge to a series of pools and waterfalls.

Back in McGregor again, we visited an unusual on the edge of town. Owner Jill Hogan showed us around. Jill teaches ‘enviro’ building techniques and also renovates old buildings using simple cost-effective methods.

In case you’re wondering about the ley lines, some say their presence is confirmed by the numerous Bushmen paintings and artefacts that have been found in the valley. It’s suggested that they led the San to water which has medicinal properties, especially the hot springs at Montagu, Caledon and Barrydale..

I certainly felt rested, revitalised and serene after visiting the area, but then it could have been because of the delicious local wines……………..

Directions:

About 180 km from Cape Town, take the N1 to Worcester and then the R60 to Robertson. Just after entering Robertson take the turnoff to the right and 19km later you will reach McGregor.

Information bureau: open Mondays to Fridays 9am to 1pm and 2pm to 4.30pm, Sat and public holidays 9am to 1pm. Call 023 625 1954, fax 0866 129 636 or visit www.tourismmcgregor.co.za

Climate: Summer days are pleasantly warm with little wind, although February can be extremely hot. McGregor is the ideal place to visit in winter because it enjoys a mere 245mm rainfall per annum, although it seems to arrive in three consecutive days.

This is different from that published

Eleven things to see and do in McGregor

1. Mulberry Studio is run by Anne Binos who has been a painter all her life, and has exhibited throughout South Africa. She organises ‘paint outs,’ going to various places in the area teaching others to paint. Mulberry Studio is the home of McGregor’s artists and is filled with pottery, paintings, ceramic sculptures and mirrors. Husband Jimmy is also creative, having designed the three McGregor information websites.

Corner of Tindall and Voortrekker Streets, call 023 625 1938, e-mail mulberrystudio@mcgregorart.co.za or visit www.mcgregorart.co.za

2. Rhebokskraal Estate invites you to stroll through the olive groves and learn the history of cultivars and their uses. The tour includes a visit to the factory where you learn various methods of curing, what to do with the ordinary olive, not just in salad, and the medicinal value of olive oil and olive leaf extract. Some interesting facts:

• SA produces only 20% of its consumption;
• It takes 7kg of olives to produce one litre of oil;
• Green and black olives grow on the same trees but are picked at different stages and olives are fruit because they have pips;
• Olives are bland on their own and need to be flavoured in some way, such as with garlic, honey or chilli and even chocolate.
• The way to know if olives are organic is when the flesh is loose. If the flesh sticks to the pip it has been soaked in caustic soda and is not organic;
• Olive beetle is the curse of olive producers. Rhebokskraal suffered with a section of the farm being infested some years ago. Anneline and husband Corrie have been organic for seven years and had no intention of using poison. Luckily they came across Oom Koos who told them to use crushed volcanic rock spread around the base of the tree.
• Apparently the oldest olive groves in the world are found in Syria, aged 6 000 years but, sadly they are being bombed in the war.
• Next year Rhebokskraal will allow visitors to pick their own olives and make their own oil.

The cost of the tour is R85 per person including meal; open Mondays to Saturday by appointment, for bookings call 023 625 1787 or 082 896 0429

3. There is no shortage of accommodation in McGregor, from camping at Groot Toren to luxuriating in the four-star Trossachs Lodge.

Four-star Trossachs guest Lodge is another option, not too far from town. Each room is dedicated to a Scottish clan, with genuine tartan cloth used for curtains, pillows and chairs. The rich material contrasts with the stone walls and thatch roofs. Perched on the hill above the lodge is an 80-seater stone Gothic chapel, which feels as if it’s been standing for centuries, and indeed the windows and doors, were restored from an original chapel, built in 1849, and an ideal wedding venue. Rates start from R450 per person per night, including breakfast, a self-catering option is also available. For bookings call 023 625 1881 or visit www.trossachs.co.za.

Also try Oblivion B&B, run by Vic Vermaak and Siegfried Pretsch whose exquisite taste is reflected in every corner of the rooms which have their own unique theme and colour scheme. “The linen comes from Beirut,” said Vic. At only R300 per person including breakfast it’s a great place to stay. Oblivion B&B, call 023 625 1472 or 082 448 9534.

4. Visit the McGregor Alternative Technology Centre (MAT), situated on the outskirts of town. It’s a communication network of like-minded people who care about living lightly on the planet. The challenge is to build sustainably using local materials and alternative energy, such as used doors and furniture, car windows, solar power, wind and water to pump water. Many of the buildings in McGregor have been built in this way. To book, call Jill Hogan on 023 625 1533, email bookings@mat.org.za or visit www.mat.org.za

5. The McGregor wine route encompasses 11 estates and eight private producers. Go wine tasting at Wolfdoring Wines and meet musician and garagiste John Hargreaves. This micro-winery is the result of a long-held dream, producing high quality red wines using natural and simple vinification methods. Due to limited cellar space, production is restricted to between 2 000 and 3 000 bottles per annum. Book at 023 625 1773 or 083 258 7061, email johnhargreaves@lando.co.za.

Alternatively take a drive through McGregor and continue to Lords Winery where you can taste wine direct from the barrel. The farm is cradled on the Protea-strewn slopes of the Riviersonderend Mountains, appointments 023 625 1265, email groottoren@telkomsa.net.

6. Temenos Wellness Centre is the place to unwind, find yourself, enjoy quality time with a loved one or friends, or simply contemplate the universe surrounded by beautiful gardens in the heart of McGregor. There is a lap swimming pool, yoga and healing therapies to indulge in during your stay. Enjoy fresh country cuisine and choose from Cape garden cottages, hermitages, library suites or the old quarter. Visit www.temenos.org.za, email temenos@lando.co.za or call 023 625 1871, R3 700 per person in single accommodation or R3 400 sharing.

7. The Heritage Society is the official custodian of the Krans Nature Reserve which was part of the meent, or commonage of McGregor, and used to be available to all villagers and for grazing livestock. Before this it was used as a dump and now old bottles, blue glass and other treasures are found. There’s the easy two-hour Kleinberg Trail, which leads to Badge Hill, which carries McGregor’s crest. For other hikes and cycle routes the reserve in Smith and Van Reenen streets.

Vrolijkheid Nature Reserve lies between McGregor and Robertson and has a number of hiking and cycle routes. These include the 19km trail passing through the Elandsberg Mountains with its succulent Karoo vegetation, or the Heron Trail at 3km, taking you to dams with a bird hide in the reedy surrounds. There is limited accommodation for visitors, call 023 625 1621/71 or email vrolijkheid@cnc.org.za

The Boesmanskloof Trail is an unforgettable 4½-hour walk to Greyton, passing Oakes pools and waterfalls on the way.

8. Mill Street Potter’s where Paul and Nina welcome you to their showroom and outside kilns and wood “library” and where work ranges from high temperature, wood-fired or conventional electric-fired stoneware and terracotta to more sculptural and decorative raku. Call 023 625 ???

9. The McGregor Donkey Sanctuary presently looks after two donkeys, named Vaal and Japie – “vaaljapie” is an Afrikaanse term for everyday wine. This number is expected to grow as more donkeys arrive from around the district. The vision of the Donkey Sanctuary is to provide retired, abused, neglected or past their sell-by date donkeys with the opportunity to live out their lives with respect and dignity, surrounded by their own kind, in a protective and natural environment. This need is not currently met by animal welfare agencies operative in the region. The townspeople have been holding numerous fund-raising events, such as the book fair where R20 000 was raised, to facilitate the sanctuary. If you are interested in adopting a donkey, visit www.donkeysanctuary.co.za

10. Conducted walks with Dawid Esau to see some of the cottages built of cob, adobe, straw bale or other alternatives to the normal bricks and mortar. Dawid leads walks every Saturday morning at 10am, taking one hour. Prior booking is advised on 023 625 1954 or 072 148 0650.

11. Old Mill Loge is set in beautiful gardens with picturesque thatched cottages and spectacular views. Long ago farmers brought their wheat to be ground between the millstones of the historic watermill. Visit www.oldmilllodge.co.za or call 023 625 1841, 076 393 0462, email info@oldmilllodge.co.za