National Park Overload, Part II

The top!
see all photos »

I had arrived in Springdale the afternoon before I actually made my way into the park. Having just spent a couple of days in the wilderness, I enjoyed the opportunity to get an oil change for my car and to shower. The next morning I woke early (my parents had generously decided to spend a short work break with me, and we planned the typical National Park getaway starting with Zion) and we left for breakfast. After caffeinating ourselves with coffee and packing sandwiches from a congenial (also caffeinated) cafe manager whom I named Mr. Flourish for his elaborate gesturing style, we entered the park.

"Walter's Wiggles" at Zion Nat'l Park
see all photos »

There are a handful of moderate to strenuous-rated hikes at Zion, and I asked the ranger at the entry booth for a tip. When I got my oil change at the local Chevron station, the mechanic suggested Observation Point trail "if you're up for a tough hike" and I alway love to accept a challenge like that. At Big Bend National Park, the ranger told me that he always wanted to go to Zion and hike the Angel's Landing trail, which most people skip because of distance, but led me to believe the hike was closer to fourteen miles. As it turns out, Angel's Landing  is only a 5 mile hike, but involves a tricky ridge to reach the holy spot. I asked the ranger what he would recommend for one long hike, Angel's or Observation, and he impatiently looked at me, paused, and answered "well, when you get to Observation Point, you're looking down on Angel's Landing." I thanked him and we headed for Weeping Rock parking lot to hike to the Point.

Check out the Layers!! Inside the channel of the Cooler
see all photos »

Observation Point is ranked as strenuous with steep sections not recommended for any hikers fearful of heights. This not only deterred many other hikers browsing the trail descriptions, but cemented our decision to reach the peak of the East Park Canyon.

I have mentioned before how much I adore the luxurious trails of the West. Out East, in the White Mountains especially, the ascent paths follow the philosophy that if there's elevation to climb, might as well get it over with as soon as humanly possible, which means climbing thousands of feet in relatively short distances.

I wish the light was better, but look at the colors, ripples, and grooves.
see all photos »

Out here, the switchback makes hiking a bit more accessible. For horses as well as people, these trails can be accessed for leisurely climbs. Thus, I was practically running up the Observation Point trail at times. I do love switchbacks. The mountains out here are just larger, which we supposed invited development on top, which bringing horses up facilitated, and the extra space made switchbacks the logical choice.

We discussed whether some masochism played a small part in building trails in the East, could switchbacks been employed there? Would that have somehow corrupted the Puritanical sensibilities of the region? In any case, we thanked, as usual, the dedication of the volunteer trail builders, who left their marks. An impession of a bare foot, and drawings in cement sections of names and a bird, all between 1976 and 1979, reminded me of what must go into the laying of a trail like this one. I had been summarily blown away by the Utah National Guard and Parks volunteers at Canyonlands, with simple stairs and a predominating use of cairns for direction. But the trails there adapted to a winding desert plain, whereas Zion's territory demanded hard labor, a little bit of cement and pickaxes. Ok, digression, sorry.

Halfway up to Observation Point.
see all photos »

Observation Point is rated steep and strenuous for climbing 2000 feet in the beginning couple of miles, so if you're used to hiking in the Northeast, it will be a leisurely climb to the top of the canyon plateau. There you can look out, to the winding canyon bed, to the curve of the angel's landing ridge, descending in a partial spiral, which creates a pocket of shade. It's beautiful up there! I watched a chipmunk approach us as if many before had ignored the sign about fines for feeding wildlife. Although we began the hike under the clouds, after we emerged from the section of the trail called the cooler (a oft-photographed narrow channel of rippling rock), the sun was out. The high-elevation point made a great spot for lunch, and the views were just terrific.

That's Angel's Landing shade.
see all photos »

The descent earned the strenuous title, and once we returned to the car we were ready for a beer in the hot tub. Oh, what a life.

The next day we took a number or easier hikes, the notable ones being the Emerald Pools three trail combination that takes you all over the hillside to idyllic pools of varying hues of green where one co-hiker aptly noted 'how did they find this place anyway? And amazing there was a trail here'; then Hidden Arch trail that takes a great path to under a rock grotto then ends in a wonderful view; the Narrows, which is just pretty and allows you to walk up the river as far as the season allows, but won't exercise ya.

Do you see the chipmunk?
see all photos »

I would have preferred another day or two to explore here- although when I arrived I wasn't all that impressed with the scenery, it certainly grew on me as a tranquil and beautiful spot. If you have time, I bet adding the Angel's Landing trail to the itinerary would be exciting, with the challenge of the ridge before or after the more spacious view of Observation Point.

It's a gorgeous slice of the country.