Whirlwind Tour of Portland
From The Grand American Road Trip in Portland, United States on Apr 19 '07
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When I explored Portland, I stayed within two focal points: The Waterfront Walk, and Powell's Books. Outside the city, we explored Larch Mountain and Multnomah Falls, and failed to venture up the river at what must have been the Columbia River gorge.
The threeish-mile walk that crosses bridges and follows the river along its length with learnings and suspension paths was a real treat. The day was calm and very warm in the sun, still cool in the shade, with barely any clouds. In the early morning I explored the bookstore and bought a few reads, then found my way via Chinatown to the walk. I had to cross the river and explore two areas that seemed impressively seedy for such a small (is it as small as it seems?) city, but finally happened upon the entrance to the riverwalk. Along the walk, which reminded me of an updated rail line, learnings were scattered, and I took in a little history, always appreciated at such a touristy site.
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On the waterfront, I learned that families taking advantage of the prosperity of the port city in the early twentieth century resided in house boats that worked as floating neighborhoods, neither very homey nor seafaring, and in some cases tragically not riverfaring either (down current of a booming logging industry), but a clever way to avoid property taxes at the very least.
Fit urbanites were out, running, walking, speedwalking as well. The walk crosses the river, just above the water, underneath a bridge the local train still uses, close to the ugly part of the port, where the sour and sweet smells of industry wafted over to the tourist side of town.
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The walk was as beautiful as the day, and the people were out in force on their lunchbreaks. Teenagers were singing and smoking a certain illegal herb, so the populace was mostly enjoying the spring day. I lingered, reading my book, people watching, and taking pictures. When my friend finished his work, we met to leave the city and see more of the famously lush countryside.
Our first stop was Multnomah Falls, where we climbed a short, paved path of switchbacks to a bridge underneath the grand falls. Many tourists had the same idea, so after some photos and an ice cream, we headed out to explore the Gorge.
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Usually, the gorge is accessible by stairs from a road near the falls, but this was no ordinary day. As it was late winter in Oregon (pshaw to observing the Spring equinox), the roads were torn apart in the midst of construction, and the river was clogged with thick logs recently released from the shading trees. We were determined to explore the gorge, the channel through the bisected mountain, but alas, the clogging was severe. I removed my socks and shoes, carefully settled my ice cream cone into the knot of a felled trunk, and began to forge the river. The water was so cold that my consistent "Oh!"s were detectably of a higher octave within three paces.
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On the other side, we walked a short ways before discovering the usual path deeper into the gorge was not accessible. Although little of the intended path was revealed, an image of The Cooler from Zion National Park, but with rougher rock face and cushions of greenery, settled in my mind as what lay ahead. I was ready for the return jaunt into the freezing water, so I encouraged my brain to freeze with my body. While walking, holding my friend's outstretched hand to navigate the slippery rocks along the bed, thoughts cleared into simplicity- first, survival, second, get out of the f-ing water. Get out of the water get out of the water get out of the water. Yet the message was clear and calm. I love adventures!
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Then we headed for Larch Mountain. Before the ascension road, we stopped at a lookout lot, where the view of the Willamette (or Columbia?) reminded me of my drive along the Umpqua, the lush greenery of the area. The mountain road was closed near the top and under a few inches of slush, but we happily discussed ecology and I was inwardly grateful to have seen snow this winter, even if it prevented a nice hike.
And thus was my experience in Portland, Oregon. I hope very much to return and give it at least a weekend, wink wink.
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