Jerusalem, Liftah, and Many Hassles

My final day in Tel Aviv was pretty uneventful, apart from various people stopping me, as per usual. Honestly, I get very weird treatment here in Israel. And the guys are SO FORWARD. I mean 7.30 in the morning stopping their car trying to give me a rose, or trying to get me to hang out because apparently they're a 'really nice guy'. Whatever. Maybe my wonky, weirdo features appeal in this country. Or so I thought until I looked in the mirror and noticed the sign suspended above my head, reading 'Pays well for compliments'...

Anyway... some old dude, was waving a sweet at me. I just smiled politely and tried to walk past, but he kept speaking Hebrew at me and waving it at me, so I took it and said thank you. He grabbed my head and planted a huge kiss on my cheek and fondly stroked the other.

Conundrum. Was he being grandfatherly or sleazy? He must've been about 80, but...?!??!

Other than that, I found the most amazing ice cream parlour in the history of man. Definitely a positive thing that I found it on my final day, as anyone who knows me knows what my addiction is. Ice cream. Any time of year. Any time of day. Saturday night in the pub with friends 'Hey... erm... Blockbuster would still be open now, you know... They sell those little tubs of Hagen Daz...'

Yeah. So, mmm... very nice.

And the following day on to Jerusalem. Got the Sherut (shared taxi) to the New Central Bus station, and then Egged bus to Jerusalem. Pretty uneventful. On arrival to Jerusalem noticed that the hostel I was recommended by a very pleasant young German gentleman at Hayarkon 48 (let's call him Heinrich... it may well have been), was actually in a view isolated, deserted area... which is fine if you're with a group of friends, but not so cricket if you're a lone female traveller. Oh, and there's no hot water, and one very ill-working shower and toilet for THE WHOLE HOSTEL. And it resembles a prison cell made of stone. Hmmm? What was it he liked about the hostel, again?

So... I checked in, dumped my stuff and ventured for the sights. Had not walked more than say 3 meters when I'm being bombarded with 'Hello my friend - I want to make present for you' and 'Guide? You need a guide?' Some Bedoin arab called Eric enticed me into his store to 'give me present' - 'I don't want a present. I haven't the room to carry anything more around'... he then started babbling on and on about how I am his friend. Showing me all his wares, and what good prices he has. 'Good for you. I'm not buying anything'... then he asked how old I was, and said he wanted to call me his sister. He has a girlfriend but apparently felt responsibility towards me. He guessed I was 17.

It's the hat, I swear. Makes me look like a teenager.

Phew. Finally I managed to get out of the shop only to bump into a middle-aged American Jew originally from New York called Doug, who laughed at my being in such a hurry to get away from the shop, and started talking really fast to me and before you know it he's showing me all around the Old City, pointing out good places to eat, places to avoid, giving me tips on haggling. He wanted to take back a stereo he bought at the Arab market the other day 'Melanie, you're in Customer Service - you should be good at this'. Amusing to watch him trying to swap the used stereo for a brand new one (he bought it used). Didn't work. They were pretty hostile.

Afterwards (no luck with the stereo) he took me to the Jewish Quarter.. we then bumped into an Arab who greeted him with much gusto 'Doug! My friend - you look good!' and managed to drag us off to see a camel.

I had no interest to see a camel. Especially as I knew full well he was doing this to try and get some money out of me 'Go on - sit on the camel - have your photo taken'

'No, cheers. I've seen a camel before.'

That didn't go down too well with him, but then he'd dragged us quite a distance to see a camel I'd told him I didn't give a damn about seeing. He seemed to think Doug and I were 'together'. Doug was very nice, and could well have just been looking out for me - seeing me as a lone female in a strange city. He was very funny, and likeable, but I have to be cautious, so I coldheartedly gave him the slip after about an hour.

Yeah, yeah.. I feel guilty about it, still, but you can't be too careful. He could have just meant well, and it was very kind of him to take me around, but..

Anyway, I found my way to the Western (or 'Wailing') and then afterwards took the bus to the New City where I had a wander around before heading back to the hostel for an early night.

I was greeted in my hostel by a lovely Swiss Jew called Udit (pronounced Yew-dit), I'd guess to be in her mid 40s. We hit it off straight away. She is desperately looking for ways to stay in Israel, but is finding it most difficult. We talked for hours about many things. She has many friends here in Jerusalem, and was off out again in the evening. She is from a very wealthy background in Zurich and seems to know a lot of important people, although she didn't really go into detail or put much emphasis on this.

I managed to get an early night after she'd gone (no hot water though - I managed to force myself to shower in the freezing cold water, but couldn't bring myself to wash my hair, so it's been covered up with a hat again today).

This morning I was awoken early to the construction going on in the hostel - they're trying to build another shower, which apparently means knocking out a wall. Hmmm...

I don't know if I've mentioned it, but I hurt my left foot and it has swollen up - the same thing happened a couple of years ago in Prague. Too much walking on concrete or cobbles or something. Anyway, I tied my foot up with the nearest thing handy, not having bandages... a twisted up plastic bag.

Stylish.

And then put on my trainers. I took the bus to the New City to search for Lifta - the ancient town of ruins, that my brother Mark lived in with some hippies years ago for a stint. I had carefully copied down his directions, and had little difficulty finding it.

I found my way to 'Road to Tel Aviv' and behind the two petrol stations, I descended via a spiralling footbridge to the edge of a steep valley, which miraculously (given my swollen foot) I made it down.

Beautiful. Absolutely gorgeous! The sky was a brilliant blue, the grass and cacti lush green, and there were poppies scattered amongst the ruins. The valley was deserted apart from a handful of Orthodox Jews I could see in the distance, sunbathing. Fortunately I had 3 rolls of film on me - one b/w and the others, colour. I took plenty of photos, clambering around. I didn't venture into too many of the buildings as they looked ready for the floors to collapse and being alone, I could be trapped there not to be found! Not a most pleasant prospect I think you'll agree...

After about an hour or so, I was surprised by an Orthodox Jew emerging in front of me. He started to speak urgent Hebrew to me (as always seems to be the case - people won't believe I'm not Jewish)

'English'

He apologised and then began to speak in broken English to me.

'You take photos?'

'Yes'

'You take photos of us sunbathing?' looking shocked

'No!'

'You take photos of me sunbathing naked?' looking horrified

'No! No, I just take photos of the buildings'

Well, please! If you see a girl darting around, camera in hand, you think you'd have the decency to cover yourself up! I had actually avoided where I saw they were, but after they had gone, made my way deeper into the valley to take more photos; later on coming across some sort of tour group.

Unfortunately as I ran out of water and had a steep trek back up the valley, I had to leave before I became too dehydrated, what with the sun beating down on me.

The rest of the afternoon I have just spent mooching around. I tasted my first ever Shwarma from Shwarma King on Jaffa Street yesterday. Delicious! One thing I've noticed is the huge quantities of stray cats one comes across in Israel. I was surrounded by about 3 all meowing and staring at me whilst I ate. All skinny and scraggly...

I'd write more, but even this has been a rush, and it's dark outside. I'd better make my way back to the hostel before it's too late. I have to make my way thru the arab market. Not a joy, let me tell you.