Overland Track, Tasmania
From Overland Track, Tasmania in Launceston, Australia on Mar 18 '06
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This has without any doubt been one of the highlights of my travels over the last 5 months. A combination of breathtaking alpine and bush scenery, superb weather and great people made this a very memerable experience.
After a few relaxing days spent with Lauren and Trevor at their new home in Launceston I booked a place on the track late on Saturday afternoon. This booking system is similar to the one operated in NZ for the great walks, although you are not limited on how long the track takes you once you start. You must however have your track pass clearly visible on the outside of your pack at all times, Rangers do ask to see them at the huts.
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I departed Launceston on the Sunday for Cradle Mountain at 12.30 arriving late afternoon, very cold and wet, not ideal for the start of a 5/6 day trek !!. After collecting both my track pass and national parks pass from the information centre I met up with Pete from Melbourne who is also booked into the same backpacker cabins and will start tomorrow as well, so we decided to walk together which was a good start. And after a couple of beers in the nice warm cabin we turned in on a very cold frosty night.
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I think I should mention backpacks at this point. Although you aim to have as lighter pack as possible its almost impossible to have much less than 20 kg's simply because of the amount of food that you need to carry for 6 days, tents cooking equipment etc. ThIs is one of the factors that makes the Overland track fairly demanding over a prolonged period.
Day 1. Its a very cold and frosty (minus 5) at 7.30am when I met up with Pete at the information centre for the first bus of the day.Although I am glad to say its a bright sunny morning. The bus dropped us at Ronney Creek which is the starting point. The first section is also board walked which makes for easy walking in the first half hour (large sections of this track are boardwalked in one way or another). The first hour or so of day 1 takes you up to 'Marions Lookout' which gives spectacular views over Dove Lake and of Cradle Mountain. Once you have gained this altitude its reasonably easy going. We arrived at the Waterfalls hut at 12.20pm, after some lunch we decided that the next hut which is a further 9klms is a suitable target for the day. This first day gives excellent views of Biron Bluff and surrounding valleys and bush.
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About half way we meet out first fellow tracker heading in our direction, Andy who is also from Devon had been on one of the side tracks to look at a lake. We arrived at the next hut at about 4pm, much to our surprise others are impressed at the 20 or klms we have covered in the first day. Andy rolled in a short time later to join us.
So after a break, dinner and chat with Andy, Russell and Bob its time to get some sleep as their is no power to the huts and it gets dark around 8pm.
Day 2. 8am start bound for the new Pillion hut, approximately 17.5klms, this we understand is one of the harder days with some climbing and a large section through the forest. Once again we have clear blue skies and ever changing scenery which makes for fascinating walking through bush and mature forest of Myrtle. Arriving at New Pillion about 4.50pm after a long day its time for a break, although after some coffee neither of us are that tired much to my surprise. The remainder of our group roll in shortly after our arrival. Dinner and a chat with a former guide and others makes for a interesting evening. One thing about being this far from any urban conurbations is that the stars are really stunning, tonight is no exception. So with a Dutch guy, Pete and Susanne I spent half an hour on the Hele pad looking at this spectacular night sky, its also getting cold by this time.
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Day 3. Another 8.15 start, today is the midway section, although its only about 9klms to the Kiaora Hut we have the opportunity to bag the summit of Mt Ossa, which at 1617m is the highest peak in Tasmania and is on the route of the track. Its a good climb with a pack to the saddle on the track at some 1100m altitude. At this point there is a platform where you leave your pack for the hour or so climb to the summit.
Once more its a beautiful day, almost to good to be true that we are blessed with such good weather in this region as its renowned for rain and a very muddy track. Its a fairly easy climb and only gets steep in the last few 100 m's or so. We reached the summit after just over an hour to be rewarded with a truly awesome 360 degree vista. To the north you can see Biron Bluff and Cradle Mountain, to the south Lake St Claire (our final destination) which looks a long way away. Its not often that you are lucky enough to have these views from the summit of such peaks.
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So after about 45 minutes its time to descend with a stop to talk to others on the way up. After lunch back at the platform we headed for the hut arriving late afternoon, and we decided to camp as Pete has a new tent he wanted to try out. So after a quick swim in the freezing river which is very refreshing I can assure you we have dinner alfresco in the fading light and watch the sunset over the mountains which is very beautiful. after our meal we decended on the hut to talk with Andy and Russell for a short while before getting some much needed sleep.
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Day 4. I cant believe it's another beautiful morning as we depart our camping area at 8.30am. Today is going to be the longest day as we shall be taking in the side trips to the waterfalls which will mean we have to cover 23 klms to reach the Narcissus hut and Lake St Claire.
After a fairly hard climb in the first part of the day and visiting 3 waterfalls we reached the Windy Ridge hut about 12.40pm to join Russell and co for Lunch. Departing about 1.30 we arrived at Narcissus around 4.50, far enough for one day I think, It seemed amazing to think back to being on the summit of Mt Ossa a day or so ago and to look at Lake St Claire in the distance which seemed so far away. So we had covered 40klms in the last 2 days and have just 17klms left along side lake St Claire and the end of the track. Today was interesting too, although the later stages of the track are much easier, the mid section by far the most interesting. So a quick dip in the lake and super before some sleep in preparation for the last day. Hopefully not so many snakes, so far I have nearly stepped on one King snake and seen 2 others as well as other snakes, Parakeets, wombats and numerous Wallabies as well as friendly Possums.
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You can if you wish catch a boat from this end of the lake to the visitor centre, however Pete and I had decided that we wanted to complete the track rather than catch the boat.
Day 5. Departing the hut at 8.40am this is a fairly easy section mainly through forest with glimpsed views of the lake, for many not very appealing, plus you have to climb over lots of roots and the path meanders all over the place. So it was with some pleasure that we arrived just 1klm short of the visitor centre about 1.15pm. At this point our pace certainly picked up for the short distance to the centre and a much needed shower.
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I don't think either of us stopped grinning for the rest of the afternoon, as once again its been a beautiful day and very warm, Its hard to explain the immense feeling of pleasure and satisfaction in recognition of the enjoyment that we have had over the last week, and the great company we had along the way. Oh and the Boags draught went down a treat too I can assure you.
So at 6.25 most of the group boarded the bus bound for Hobart (except Pete who flies back to Melbourne tomorrow). It was a very happy if not tired group who arrived at 9.30pm at the little bus terminal. Andy and I walked back to the hostel arriving about 9.45 to be greeted by Susanne who will also be staying here. Its here that the seen is set for the remainder of my time in Tasmania. After talking with Andy and Susanne we decided to hire a car the following day and depart for Freycinet National Park on the Sunday to walk some of the track on the east coast.
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