by Real Traveler Marshall
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Palma, city of fine art and bare cheek

From Palma Majorca in autumn in Palma, Spain on Oct 05 '07

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Bare cheek at 10:30 am
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Trip Diary Palma September 2007

I like Palma in the autumn ; the weather is usually fine and the crowds are gone. This time I was lucky to miss some freak weather (possibly a tornado ; high winds damaged an industrial area on the edge of Palma. blew tiles off many roofs and downed several trees on the island). There was some rain during my visit but it occurred at night or during my nap time, so I was not bothered by it.

First morning out I walked through the small park near the Rosamar Hotel which leads down to Paseo Maritimo. This is the place to see all the yachts and some rather grand hotels. Near the Tryp Bellver Hotel the pavement was blocked by a group doing a photo shoot. The subject proved to be a blonde in lingerie ; I love my photo in which the people seem totally oblivious to this nearly naked lady walking around at 10:30 am.

A jaded group of Palma residents
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My friend Leif told me about two interesting exhibitions : one at Gallery Pelaires (the commercial gallery) and the other at C.C.C. Pelaires (the Foundation or museum).

The main pedestrian street connecting the shopping area with the cathedral (Paseo Born or Passeig des Born if you prefer Catalan). It was closed for nearly a year while they refurbished it and the results are stunning. Huge sculptures by Manolo Valdes seemed to be attracting interested residents and visitors alike.

I returned to Palma Cathedral (La Seu) to get better photos of the Barcelo chapel which I enjoyed so much during my visit last June.

Sculpture by Valdes in Paseo Born
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The Diocesan Museum has been extended and now fills a lovely old mansion behind the cathedral. There is great variety of art works (I admit that religious art is not my favourite). There is a striking 18^th Century sarcophagus for King Jamie II (who died in 1311) a crown sits on a pillow on top the tomb .. it was amasing to see that the pillow is white granite so fine that it looked like fabric. I also enjoyed a close-up look at some of Gaudi’s fixtures for the cathedral (lectern, seating, etc.)

Sculpture by Valdes in Paseo Born
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Sculpture by Valdes in Paseo Born View more photos

On Tuesday my friend Leif took me out to a garden I have been waiting to see for several years – Jardin Alfabia on the road to Soller. It is not easily accessible by public transport.

“This was once the estate of Majorca's Moorish governor and retains features from the fifteenth century, including a courtyard fountain and a canal with criss-crossing jets of water. There are seventeenth century additions and also a romantic nineteenth century garden.”

C.C.C. Pelaires - sculpture by Mimmo Paladino
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There are a few features which reflect its Moorish history but mostly it seems to be a Baroque building. The gardens are fascinating because they are rather dense, filled with water features and have a romantic air about them (certainly they are not over manicured) .. there is a hint of decay and of the site being almost abandoned.

Sculpture by Valdes in Paseo Born View more photos

The Jardins at Soller are on the edge of the town, easily accessible by walking and altogether a more straightforward botanical garden. It seems to be expanding all the time ; there were new areas which look slightly raw but I’m sure they will develop in time. The display of mushrooms at the house (which is part of the site) tweaked my curiosity.

Barcelo Chapel in Palma Cathedral
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We had lunch at a lovely old fashioned hotel El Guia next to the railway station. Stuffed marrow as a starter, delicious tongue of veal followed by a ice cream dessert covered with a scrumptious chocolate sauce (honest, I only had a spoonful – being allergic to dairy products). An attractive and relaxing place but not for those in a hurry. The waiters are older are seem to be operating as if it were 1880 when the place first opened.

C.C.C. Pelaires - sculpture by Mimmo Paladino View more photos

Alfabia Gardens
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On my arrival in Palma I learned that a festival (Week of the Historical Organs of Mallorca) was underway. I was only able to attend one recital (Iglesia del Socorro) and was sorry that my short visit (5 nights) did not permit me to attend other recitals.

Practical Details

Centre Cultural Contemporani Palaires

Calle Can Veri, 3