Train to Fes

First Class....
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Friday Morning I make it to the train on time, purchase my first class ticket, which I am embarrassed to even ask for.  I remember that on my first train experience I was sitting in a very nice chair in the last car and thought maybe that was what first class was, so I ask the ticket giver if my seat was all the way in the back or all the way in the front of the train.  Now, I understand that “First Class” would imply Front – I just wanted to be sure since everything I assume seems to be the opposite of reality…. He says “Yes – in the back” So I lug my aforementioned super heavy monstrous bag pack, laptop bag (stuffed in every compartment), water bottle the size of my leg and another bag filled with stolen breakfast buffet items a ½ mile down the track of what seems to be the longest train in history.  I board the train and maneuver thru the Oh So heavy double doors that of course open only with a lever on the left side (my weak arm) so I have to switch all my crap to my right hand – and slide the door open, sort of jump in only to find that you have to open the second door a foot in front of you.  So of course the first door closes on me, pinning my backpack out and me in between the two cars.  All of this mind you before 7am….

out the window - it all looks the same really...
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So I’m looking for Compartment 8 seat 85 and the nice uniformed man tells me “First Class – Front”…. Super.

I finally get to compartment 8, and I’m all alone in a car that seats 6 (nothing First class about that) I suppose it’s first class cause you have an arm rests to define where your ass stops and another one begins.  I’m praying that no one shows up.  But of course they do.  2 women and a husband all speaking French so loud and so fast that my brain is buzzing.  They pile their stuff all over the place, completely surrounding me in with no rationalization of “personal space” the man even took his shoes off and I swear I’m not exaggerating in the least, put his feet in the corner of MYSEAT.  We haven’t even left the station yet and I’m in full Yoga breathing trying to figure out how I will make this be an “experience” instead of tell him to get his nasty feet away from me.  It just gets better, the woman next to me decides she will capitalize on both empty seats (3 per side) lays down and puts her head on my armrest and sprawls out.  I have NO ROOM, Know no French and I’m freaking.

My room at the Riad Bartal
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About 30 minutes later the three of them are trying to “get comfortable” and are talking about my neck pillow.  Pointing and Laughing because clearly, if I don’t understand their language then I must not be able to understand when 3 people are pointing and talking about me.

So I decide to kill them with kindness – I go into my Mary Poppins bag of tricks and pull out 2 more pillows and offer them to the women.  They are very grateful and snatch them up.  Now I’m the most wonderful person in the world and for the next 4 hours each of us spent time shifting and assisting each other’s comfort level.  My feet on their chairs – my head on their arm rests, their feet on my chair… it was really very sweet.  I then busted out the figs and apricots I had purchased the night before and offered them up – I achieved rock star status instantly.  The woman next to me told me I was welcome in her home anytime, gave me her number and email address and told me to call if I needed anything while in Morocco.  Then as they were about to get off in Rabat that same woman was ransacking her purse for something.  She stops and says to me “I want to leave you with a present for your kindness, but I’m not finding anything adequate”.  So of course I tell her that is not necessary and say all the normal things you would say about that…. She says again “I do not know your money situation, I’m sure you are not needing any money, but please take this, not to spend but for good luck, as my gift to you” and she hands me 5 Dirham.  I almost started crying.  We kissed checks several times and she left insisting that I call her if I need anything.  It was a wonderful morning.

I then had 4 more hours in the car all to myself to sing and sprawl and talk to myself!!