'Sun, Sea, Sand, Sihanoukville!'

11th Nov

Tired still. have just enough time for some oversweet tea before riding passenger on a motorcycle strapped into my backpack and daypack in some crazy traffic though i manage to stay on for the 3 minute sprint to the station and locate my bus, chuck my luggage in front of the exit doors! and sit down for a 5hr journey to the beautiful beaches of the south. I was next to this Cambodian guy from Battambang on business as a director for a reputable childrens charity. Very interesting insight to a job besides farming/tourism. On the half way break for lunch, i get chatting to this other foreign lone traveller, a swedish girl called Anna, who had already been in Sihanoukville and was in fact a rather experienced itinerant. so i kept close by when hounded getting off the bus and watched her barter down our rides to Victory Hill, where we'd share rooms to save money, from the initial 5 dollars to 3000 riel (75 cents)...she grins a sweet smile when i voice my admiration at that feat. Tiring ride up some steep hills with my pack to the Sakal Bungalows, 5 dollars for a twin w/ shower, mozzy net (2 dollars fifty each; around 1 pound 80!!) and we spend the day getting to know each other on the beach, where thru some persistant kid vendors, i get 2 dollars worth of delicious fruit, and she gets hair removal, massage and nails painted. A beautiful sunset later, i tried 2 dinners, disliking both. Anna retires back to the room while i get chatting to an equally stunning German lady called Gordi at the bar, who despite being 28 had a similar sense of humour and conversation. She tells me other beaches are nicer and we think of checking them out as Anna leaves 2moro morning.

'My favourite place in the world. The whitest beaches ive ever seen, the best characters ive ever met, the best time ive had (No wonder i accidently spent a week too long here)

12th Nov

Kept waking up thru the night to some loud, as if under my bed, sounds which i thought must emanate from a baby crocodile - too much crocodile hunter diaries. The next morning, Anna claims to have heard them too though finds it hilarious what i thought the source were; choking on her toothpaste. After a quick goodbye, which baffled the staff thinking that we were an, albeit unlikely, couple, i settle into a single room for the princely sum of 3 dollars which i can deal with anyday as well as being too tired to move to another hotel so early on.

Still wanting to see what the fuss was about with the other beaches, i thought it an ingenious to hire a motorbike for 3 dollars a day and get them to teach me to use it...Wrong. as it became clear that i had no idea what i was doing and that i hadnt driven on the right before, they feared for my life with the mad asian motodrivers as well as the safety of the brand new bike they had brought out for me! So a mutual decision not to risk it. Luckily, i bumped into Gordi having breakfast on the way back in from this debacle and she questioned me on what i was doing...so, in her typical cool laid back 'why not?' attitude, offers to take me around town to look for accommodation! awesome. It did look weird though: me straddling some mid-20s beautiful german lady; like prostitution but in vice versa fashion to what was more popular in Asia...this was made evident when she, as a hilarious joke, would shout to bemused passer-bys 'i got him for a good price' whilst gesturing to me...hrs of fun.

The first beach: Independence beach was pleasant enough though there wasnt any accommodation :S so we went to check out the stunning white sanded, clear water Sokha beach which was actually owned by the private resort there. Officially, its also for public use, but you will be positively hassled by security if they see you lay down a towel without being a patron! Climbed a hill to access Cloud 9 hillside bungalows with a great view of Serendipity and Ocheuteil beaches, though Gordi took a dislike to the British owner who seemed to exploit the staff and was clearly in it just for the money. So after a cocktail and a brief chat, we left to check out the free accommodation (yes!) advertised on the beaches themselves. This beach was loaded with people and tenacious child vendors but we settled there for some food and chilled there till well after sunset. In this time, she spilled her life story about how she quit a promising career to go travelling for a year! and, the lucky sod she is, when she returns she might still have the job with higher pay lol; no wonder she's happy. Before making a long hilarious trip back in pitch black, trying to locate potholes with the piss poor excuse for a front lamp on this shit bike (which incidentally had no horn or brakes for that matter) Earlier we enquired about the free accommodation which was pretty decent (ive stayed in and paid for worse) and the catch is that you have to buy all your meals at the corresponding restaurant. This isn't bad as these restaurants dish up some really decent dishes at good prices...maybe later on this week.

Got back, had dinner and waited for the England vs Argentina which would air at midnight, and as Gordi was having trouble deciding whether to go to Thailand 2moro or stay longer and go Vietnam instead. Horrible decisions i know...thus i suggested that if her home nation Germany win against France: she goes to Thailand, and if they lose: she stays! And the complete free spirit that she is, she took me up on it! so i stayed up till 4am with her to witnessthe boring 0-0 DRAW. Great.

13th Nov

Dont know whether it's a new found traveller attitude, but i decide today that i cant be asked to move back to Phnom Penh to go to Vietnam. I wanted to cherish the great feeling of having nothing to do.  Perhaps im lazy or havent yet fill my quota of sunlight for the year, but i pencil another 3 dollar day into my running bill. Being in the 'sticks' though, i had to search far and wide in town for more mozzy repellent and lens solution only finding the former!! ill just have to make do i guess, feeling very unfussed which is a great feeling.  Im having such a good time meeting new people everyday.

Spent the whole dayon the beach eatingmore fresh seafood and fruit from thesame child vendor called Lida who instantly remembered and hassled me when i set foot on the white sand...The sun was baking and tinging my skin as i set out to practice my immature skill of breast stroke. That was my day!

14thNov

Happy days...

Yet another entire day spent on the hot beach; a lifestyle one could easily getvery used to. I think ive nailed breast strokenow so am attempting front crawl in particularly warm/hot waters today. In front of yet another stunning unbroken sunset on the horizon, i give myself time to reflect on my life situation, happiness etc...conclusions which remain secret! Only if you spend time alone, can one stop blaming problems on others, said the wise philosopher...

Thats another day's action reported and speaking of the German, Gordi finally 'buggered off' (a term she used) to Thailand for the full moon party. In my thoughts, i knew that i enjoy myself more when i can share experiences with friends/family so i booked myself on a snorkeling trip 2moro to meet more people and get a change of scenery. 'Last day' i promised myself...

15th Nov

An earlier start today and im whisked off/pummeled into a car to Occhuteil (notice my spelling of this will change each time) beach by a short lady who could barely reach the peddles as we sat 4 adults abreast in the back of a small sadan...had breakfast and got onto an equally filled boat where some 'kind' French travellers let us know of their disgust 'are there any more?' how welcoming i thought. Fortunately, a much more friendly American Amron, who became a cool travelling buddy for the next few days, striked up a conversation with us and got introduced to a pleasant Italian NGO worker called Silvia also. Happy days; the french were just as pleased that we didnt try and socialise with them as they chain smoked the whole way.

First island was a random spot for some snorkeling. I was quite excited as i hadnt done any since i got my first taste back in Ko Phi Phi, but they were rather lacking in equipment. I tried anyway, but my face mask filled with water and i swallowed through it my nose, which was an unnerving experience...thus i got back on the boat wholly disatisfied.

Next stop was the imaginatively named 'Bamboo Island' which was purely gorgeous. Pretty much had the white hot sand (almost too hot to walk bare foot) and proper clear waters to ourselves for the afternoon. really idyllic. For the volleyball enthusiasts among you, i got involved with some beach volleyball action which was really fun, separated from the sunbathing oldies. This very enthusiastic American kept score. The sand was so soft, we were finding any excuse to dive. Incredibly, Italian Silvia had the most fierce swerving serve though one wouldnt have guessed it from her gentle disposition esp her cheeky grin...leading us to believe that not only had she played before, but that she played for the national side on weekends! After 3 games, we were whisked off for a perfectly cooked lunch of beach bbq'd fish, bread and salad. it really was scrumptous.

After lunch, we went on a small hike through some island forest to another beautiful secluded beach, though on the way, we saw some huge Russian war guns, with a range of 30km! understandably no pictures allowed being top secret but the security is rather lax as every tour group can see and touch the guns!

On my return, the-forever-smiling Amron furthered my swimming technique watching my form, teaching me how to Front and Butterfly and tread water properly, and gave general encouragement; she's a natural.

When they finally dragged us from the island as we were all lazing about reluctant to leave, the mad drunk axeman tried to attack one of our crew (im serious!) and had to be held back. the axeman was our boat driver and we were going nowhere until he calmed down. By the time we stuttered to the next island for snorkeling, few could be bothered as the equipment was shit, but also coz the water amazingly was clear enough to see the coral below.

When we got back to dry land, i decided not to go back to the hotel on the 'sardine ride' but hang out with Amron and silvia who showed us her accommodation; a lovely bungalow for 6 dollars. Oh yeah, forgot to mention that i was made aware that my intentions to go back to Phnom Penh were flawed, as the water festival (a national holiday) celebrated in PP, results in over a million people descending on the capital leaving no bus/train seat hotel room or park bench unoccupied. Lasting three days, ill have to stay for at least that. oh what a difficult position to be in :)

Thus i thought id have a change of scenery having spent 5 days at Victory Hill and thought Monkey Republic, the hotel Silvia was vacating the next day would be a good place to stay. Ironically, as most people descend on the holidays to PP, a large proportion of city dwellers come down to Sihanoukville, so rooms were becoming scarce here too. So i got to get here early 2moro to get silvia's room.

Watched the sunset on the beach before Amron joined me for dinner at the beach where i met the rather pleasant young owner, Dara, who liked nothing better than to make new friends and chat with the customers...we even got to meet his 5 month old son and his seven brothers who were all cool. He enjoyed our company so much he didnt want us to leave, but as i was still in my swimming shorts and getting bitten by mozzies..when we decided to let them clear up and shut up shop (we were the last customers), he made one of his brothers drive me completely out of their way back to my hotel - a good 15 min moto away...never met such genuinely nice people! Although Dara said it was free, i was compelled to give the kid a large tip as after a long day, he was visibly exhausted and still took me home!

16th Nov

Surreal morning. Get up, pack and leave the bungalows on Victory Hill on a back of my moto with my pack not knowing whether ill find somewhere to stay. Anyway, A and i had discussed sharing for a room to save money as she was moving out of her hotel. So i took on chance on that.  Though we had set a time, we hadnt set a place, so arriving at her hotel as she was leaving, it became rather Hollywood as i got my driver to chase after to accost her. In the end, i went to Monkey Republic for some breakfast; chatted to the 3 british owners who said the place was the magnet for the night life (as did Silvia) who hadnt got up yet.. Amron, to her credit, finally arrived. And after some quality lost-in-translation missunstanding with the local bartender about the availability of twin rooms, where he thought i still wanted Silvia's double room even though me and A were now going to share, we finally got shown around some twin rooms which had been vacated for hrs already after sitting idlely in reception +took the room practically straight away. The rest of the morning was spent reading (this book Nia had recommended depicting the life of a child growing up under the Brutal Pol Pot regime) before we decided to go to the beach!

More Cambodian kids came selling stuff but instead of the usual sales pitch of 'Please Sir, only one dollar; i sell you good price' or 'if you buy fruit, you buy from me, promise?', they were more interested in my red hair and my lack of body wool + also the fact i spoke English so they tried to make me sing this song they had learnt at school. At least they weren't trying to get money off me, but when they got annoying, i ran into the sea...

Me + A exchanged our life stories throughout the day and in particular over some noodle soup and cocktails (!) lunch. She has an incredible life + inspirational travel story, with elements of what id consider tragedies such as having all her stuff stolen in Macau; literally, the nightmare scenario of losing passport VISAs plane tickets cash and the clothes off your back, the whole smoe! BUT she tells it in a fit of giggles which i found hard to understand yet adorable. Solid travel partners now. :) (During our outpourings, this intensely giggly Cambodian girl lightly interrupted and proceeded to tell us some jokes which she found so hilarious that she couldnt tell them, and this descended into a long laughing fit all round!) Our afternoon is also littered with sobering signs of poverty and landmine victims begging. In the end, although we're having the time of our lives, so many locals weren't; i gave one lovely guy who walks with only his hands as he lost his legs, and he would smile and wave to me everytime i saw him for the next few days, carried himself with pride with no self-pity, which i admired about him.

Couldnt end the day without seeing Dara and his lovely family after being so kind to us last night, and we stay through another gorgeous sunset on the beach and again, Dara literally drops what he's doing and comes and does some cool card tricks and played this random game he calls 'Tiger and cow'. Afterwards, he brings out some firesticks, takes off his shirt and does an in promptu fireshow!! The coolest restaurant owner ive ever seen; he even tried to swap shirts with me as he liked mine and took my bandana. What a dude.

After another difficult departing, we stroll down the beach under an almostfull moon which gave the otherwise pitch black sea a light blue tinge, and sat on the now accustomed soft sand to witness a brilliant lightning show in the distance. Serenity...can't describe it very well but it was an almost perfect happy moment.

17th Nov

As Dara's mum, the head chef, had been dishing up some rather lush food over the last few days, thought we'd indulge in a cooking lesson or 2, so headed back to the restaurant early in the morning. In true fashion, Dara dropped what he was doing and instead dragged me away from the kitchen to go drinking with him and some of his local friends on the golf course! 11am in the morning. man, the 90% cambodian wine came in a black plastic carrier bag! and we were downing these by the glassfull once it was shaken with some coke, lime and juice from one of the cocunuts his crazy friend cut down after climbing this 20ft palm tree on the golf course. Getting wasted, we only stopped when some gun wielding policemen arrived by motorbike to tell us to take a hike as we were trespassing...

Under the scorn of his wife (as he pissed off drinking leaving them to look after the beach-side business!), we all cooked a meal for ourselves in the backstage kitchen feeling like part of family, preparing the ingredients and frying vegetables and even made a 'Happy shake' for a customer, thats a fruit shake with literally 'a handful' of weed chucked in; you could see the chewy swirling substance in the drink. Man, you should have seen the 2 kilo cake he had stashed in a yellow plastic bag under the sink. Street value of thousands back home, he got it for 100 dollars; you had to see it to believe it...(See photo)

One of Dara's favourite sayings which neatly sums up his personality is 'Yeah sure, Why not?' Seen as though he'd pissed up the whole day, he thought 'why not' do some karaoke and he took me and Amron to some karaoke bar where these Cambodian girls kept shoving beers in our facesand getting drunk themselves.  As we'd offer to pay for the evening as Dara had been so generous! During the aweful singing that ensued, A, and she'll prob mind me saying, somehow got herself locked in the bathroom, and it took the biggest Cambodian we could find to force the door! i eventually sang after much liquid persuasion the only song i knew in their catalogue: 'i will always love you' Good God.

Towards the end, we announce that we were gonna leave both the karaoke and Sihanoukville altogether, which really upsets Dara as he was secretly planning a party for us both...what a legend! Hopefully, I'll be back to visit the family in the future, ill make it a thing to do so.