fat guys hugging
From Life in Japan - Chapter 3 in Fukuoka, Japan on Nov 18 '06
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Finally a day of sumo was in front of us! Before coming to Japan - 'a day at the sumo' - was definitely on my top ten list. Last year I was unable to attend because the only day available to me happened to fall on the same day as a school festival (the infamous singing one!). This year I was determined to be ring side and cheering the fat guys on! Now, some of you may be thinking... "one day available?!.. but your in Japan Gus, sumo nation!" Well, yes, points for remembering where I am, but contrary to popular belief back home, sumo is not as common an event as you think. There are only six major tournaments held in four different cities throughout Japan in different months. Only one of these six tournaments happens to be remotely close to us, and is only on for 15 days... hence my statement.
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Karen and I packed into Matt's car, with Nick taking shotgun, and made our way to Fukuoka city. An hour later and we were rolling past the venue gawking at sumo helpers decked out in Yukata's wondering the streets. We quickly parked and made our way inside. We had arrived fairly early in the day to beat the crowds and borrow some expensive seats for a while.
it was time for the "big daddys" to strut their stuff
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Rounding a corner to the stadium, and spotting a couple of guys in the ring ahead of us, was crazy cool. For one, it was really quiet (basically an empty stadium at this stage), but on top of the quietness it was so strange to see sumo guys in person, right there a stone throw away. They were no longer "sumo guys" they were actual people, fat people sure, but people nonetheless. We found some seats close to the ring, kicked off our shoes and set about taking some pictures. Not long passed before I built the confidence to try my luck a little more, and so I moved to within two cushions (this is Japan remember... no seats) from the front. The oldtimer I had set next to seemed in good spirits and not at all pissed off I was clearly poaching an expensive seat for a while.
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Watching sumo that close is insane! My mind was busy racing between looking for a great photo, watching the actual wrestling, being cautious not to be crushed (I'm massive... but not that massive!), reliving the fact I'm actually here in Japan watching sumo three meters away, and busy storing everything to the memory bank. I've successfully programmed my brain to remember the sounds they made as they connected with a flurry of slaps, hits and pushes, the vibrations that rumbled through our seats, even 15m away, as a guy was sent head over heals our of the ring, the costumes worn by competitors, referees, announcers and helpers, and the general ambience of the whole event. It was a truly special occasion.
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As the day progressed the crowd filled up, and we moved further and further back, towards our "cheap seats" in the rafters. Karen and I spent a while "back stage" where competitors, and their helpers (who are clearly low ranking sumo guys from their home gym) warm up, and cool down. It was mindblowing standing alongside some of these guys, and very intimidating. When you see the force they have behind their pushes. One guy practiced pushing into a helper, who then had another helper behind him to stop him when he was shoved back.
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By about 4.30pm it was time for the "big daddys" to strut their stuff. The top level competitors made their way to the ring for the pre-match rituals. Then it was time for Asashoryu to make his way out. Asashoryu is currently the only top-ranking wrestler... and also basically the "Michael Jordan" of sumo. He is rewriting the records as he sets about destroying his opponents tournament after tournament. He also happens to hail from Mongolia, and has rejected Japanese Citizenship... something some people aren't too happy about.
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Anyway, to be in the presence of any world champion, regardless if its a sport I have never followed, is a special thing. There was certainly a buzz of excitement and electricity in the air!
There were a few decent upsets scattered throughout the contests. The best match was probably the second to last one which, I think, involved the home hero, Kaio, who won a tough battle that went on for well over a minute. The days final fight involved Asashoryu, and he quickly set about proving to everyone present why he is the favourite. His match lasted as long as it took his opponent to leap forward at him, miss, and fall to the floor. Asashoryu is not the biggest guy, just 148kg!...haha just!... but, he is a quick wrestler, and also has a ton of power and technique (or some I've read!... what would I know).
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After a great day at the sumo, and we ignored the requests over the intercom NOT to throw out pillows (a tradition reserved for a large upset of the final fight... but which is regularly broken by just about every foreigner present!), and we proceeded to make our way to Hard Rock Cafe for a tasty, but not so healthy, dinner western style, mmmm. What a finish to such a great day.
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