Ode to the Kurds

City Walls, Diyarbakir
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I had seen what I wanted to in Khata, so next stop to the capital of all things Kurdish in Turkey, Diyarbakir. During late march there actually had been a lot of trouble in the city after Turkish soldiers had shot a number of Kurds. Things had quietened down, but I was keeping a good close ear to the reports from the area.

From Khata, first was a bus to Siverek and then from there to Diyarbakir. The journey was really beautiful. On the first leg we crossed a lake in the middle of the mountains created by the irrigation projects that have been taking place in the area over the past few years. The mountains rise in perfect sunshine above the lake in all directions. When crossing the lake, most of the locals hopped out for a smoke, but the one other soldier that stayed in the bus started feeding me with all the local fruits that were in season. Haven't a clue what any of them were, but they weren't my cup of tea! One seemed like an un opened pistachio, hard work! Another a really sour green fruit.

City Walls, Diyarbakir
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Once I spotted the bus passing through the city walls of Diyarbakir, I knew I'd reached my destination. I even spotted the hotel that I wanted to stay in, so there's none of this getting stuck in the middle of no where not having a clue lark this time, thankfully. The city has very varying reports. On the one side the absolute capital of Kurdish hospitality and on the other, a city of petty thieves, gangs of kids and a history of violence. I find my bearings that evening, with a licence to wander the following day! Even when wandering around I am approached by someone that would have the appearance of the leader of a pack of teens. Eventually I convince him that I'm not worth walking with!

City Walls, Diyarbakir
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The city walls are what the city is famed for. They extend in very good condition around the full perimeter of the the old town center. The next day, I head down the main artery of the the town to check them out. It's clear fairly quickly that it is indeed a very traditional town, with a tea shop down every alley, full of old men with the traditional Kurdish salvar (baggy pants). I reach the end of the street and arrive a the fortification. Quickly I realise my decision to head eastwards following the wall was a bad choice. The area didn't look great with a guy testing out what speed he can get his motorbike to within 100m! I turned and headed the other direction and soon I was into a beautifully maintained garden belt following the wall. For a wall that was built 1500 years ago, it really still is in very good condition and they say almost 6km long. I chance walking along sections of the top of the wall, but am not brave enough to continue with various kids on the horizon.

My Local Tea Drinking Buddies
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I was walking along and heard a shout from across the street. This was the kind of good hospitality that the city was famed for. An older guy and a friend of his were sitting out enjoying their cay (tea) and wanted me to join them for one. Like most such incidents, there's barely a word of English between them. A few passers-by get in on the action, one acting as interpreter with his 10 English words. They gang ended up at about 7 and they couldn't have been happier that I joined them. The older man was anxious that I take his photo with his little daughter (see photo). A serious sort of guy, but seemed very genuine.

I Stop for A Cup of Tea
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I wander along outside the walls. One spot in the garden is a circle of benches that the old men have claimed as their own, sitting around drinking cay. The mobile tea man keeps them topped up as well as the fruit market across the road. He spots me and offers me some of his merchandise. After walking about I figure I've earned another cay. He sits down with me and has his own well deserved break as well. Faruk has his copy to track his debtors and is counting up how much the old bucks owe him. Each guy has a line on the book, some filling the line with ticks faster than others. I think some of these guys have a bit of a problem with the old tea! The American planes are roaring in the sky overhead. Seemingly their main Turkish base is nearby. Faruk is none to impressed. He has no English, but there's no doubt what he's do to Condolesa Rice if he was standing in front of her with a loaded weapon! I head on my way, Faruk happy for the fame that his tea flask has just got, won't accept money for his cay.

City Walls, Diyarbakir
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I'm headed back toward the hotel, when I bump into a local student. Off school for the day as he is studying for exams. Murat is a very nice guy and brings me almost the whole way back to the hotel along the top of the walls. There's one section that he get's down. That tower, 'Pickpockets'. It helps to have the bit of inside information!

Thankfully I only experienced the good side of the Kurdish hospitality. You have to go with an open mind and let a bit of common sense and let judgement take over from there.