Camel trek and Bedouin tents

Yesterday started cold and windy but turned into a wonderful day. We left the Petra area early. The jeeps stopped a couple of times for panoramic views of the Petra valleys but we mostly snapped quick photos and jumped right back on the jeeps because of the cold and wind. Jamie tried in vain to get us interested in Nabatean ruins with an unusual 'tri-apsal' basilica but, again, we were thinking about getting back on the nice, warm jeeps.

It had gotten warmer by the time we stopped to look at a huge stone arch formed in the sandstone. We climbed up on the arch and wandered around for photos. Then the wind picked up again and I felt like I'd had a sandblaster turned on my face! Now I know why Arabs where the kaffiyehs that can quickly cover their faces when the wind starts to blow.

After the jeeps chased each other across the sand for a while looking for a place protected from the wind, we finally had a short stop for tea in late morning. The day doesn't sound so great so far but amazing things awaited at our next stop.

The jeeps drove us out into Wadi Rum to meet up with our camels. The highlight of the day was a 4-hour camel trek through the desolate yet spectacular vistas of Wadi Rum to a Bedouin tent where we were to spend the night. I had been on a camel for 15 minutes or so in Egypt and it hadn't been all the comfortable so I was a little worried about 4 hours of lurching through the desert. However, these camels (or their saddles or something) were much more comfortable and I quickly forgot about the rhythmic swaying motion and just enjoyed the ride.

Although the wind was still quite strong and visibility was limited, that actually contributed to the experience. The horizon was indistinct as the wind brought part of the desert into the sky. Towering cliffs would slowly resolve out of this sandy haze. It was magical. And, when my guide finally let me take the reins, I could imagine myself as part of the caravans that used to cross these deserts for weeks on end, bringing silks, spices and other treasures from the East. I wasn't quite ready to burn my Western clothes and don Bedouin robes a la Lawrence of Arabia but I was certainly ready to sign up for a longer camel trek next time.

In the late afternoon, we arrived at the camp where we were to spend the night. Three large Bedouin tents we set up in at the base of a rocky outcropping, forming a semi-circle around a large fire pit. One tent was the kitchen, one the dining room/living room and the last our communal bedroom room. We were welcomed with tea, of course, then went exploring the surroundings. I hiked up to the top of the cliffs with a couple from the group and we watched the sun set across the expanse of the Syrian desert. As I think I've mentioned before, desert sunsets are far less dramatic than what I'm used to (maybe it's the lack of pollution in the air!) but the changing colors of the sands and cliffs was worth the trip. We scrambled back down the rocks just as the light faded.

After an amazing dinner of mezzes and kebabs, we retired to the sleeping tent. Some immediately pulled their sleeping bags outside to brave the cold night but enjoy the desert sky. I thought I'd lie amongst the rest of the group in the sleeping tent. Big mistake. I hadn't fallen asleep before a noise like distant thunder started to echo in the tent. The thunder approached until a veritable thunderstorm raged. Of course, it wasn't raining. Just the cacaphonous snoring of several members of our group. Over the next hour or so, additional rustlings and grumblings could be heard as the lighter sleepers gave up hope and moved their sleeping bags outside. By dawn, half the group had decamped to quieter spaces on the outskirts of the camp. Next time, my 'vital' supplies for overnight camping will include earplugs!

We had a fantastic breakfast (including scrambled eggs in pita bread) then the jeeps showed up to take us out of the desert. We stopped at the Seven Pillars rock formation from whence T.E. Lawrence took the title of his memoir about Arabia. Most of us could only find five or six columns in the cliff but I guess seven suited his purposes better. And hour later we were in Aqaba, surrounded by oil refineries, beach resorts, traffic, and tourists in swimsuits and bikinis. So much for 'civilization'. I think I'll go back to the desert.

Photo Album: Jordan

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