Thrilling views and sad goodbyes

Every Argentine knows what Bariloche is about. It's a little mountain town snuggled into the beautiful lakes region of southern Andes. The touristy feel is inescapable, and really has so much to offer that the allure is different for the varying age groups that flock there in both the summer and winter months. Adults generally come for the scenic tours around the lakes and mountains, as well as the expensive restaurants, skiing and uber nice hotels. Then there's the egresados. Graduating high schoolers come in the winter months and flock around in big groups wearing the same clothing and give Bariloche the more obnoxious tone I had heard about. Then again, it must be nice to come to such a nice town when you're 18 for the sole purpose of partying your ass off with no parental supervision. El viaje de egresados is in fact a middle class tradition in Argentina.

For me, Bariloche was none of the above. I was quite strapped for cash the whole time, so the only real touristy things I did was a nice boat tour to Puerto Blest and a fondue dinner with Rachel. Puerto Blest is, as the name indicates, a port on the other side of Lago Nahuel Huapi. The scenery is quite remarkable throughout the trip. As we raced through the oblong-shaped lake, mountains covered in trees and snow would jet out and come into full view. It felt as if our insignificant boat was encroaching on man's frontier in full winter bloom, but of course, I was reminded constantly that we were in fact on a tour boat and that in a matter of hours we would be back in possibly the most touristy town in South America (save perhaps Cuzco).

At that point, I don't think that I had ever seen quite a majestic view before in my life.

I didn't go skiing because, as Lisa pointed out, my uber finite cash supply could be better used in places where I probably would never visit again. So, the day that Lisa and Terry went skiing, Rachel and I had a day to wander around Bariloche, and it turned out to be my favorite day there. We walked along the main drags a little and stared at American, Brazilian, European and Argentine tourists buying overly expensive gifts, found an outstanding place for lunch, and then headed to the shores of the lake. At that point, I don't think that I had ever seen quite a majestic view before in my life. The jagged, almost impulsive snow capped mountains complemented the soothing lake below to create a beautiful harmony. The forces of nature had made it appear that two were destined to be together, while only the most catastrophic of world events might alter the scene before me. Rachel and I sat and conversed on the rocky beach for a couple hours about everything from the stunning views to silly anecdotes about mutual friends, and lamenting the little time we had left with each other.

That night we went for some fondue, which was indeed quite tasty. The next day we bid adeau to the town for a couple days and moved on to the next hostel a couple kilometers from town, which was more of a wood cabin run by a monkey of a businessman. Suffice to say, it was very relaxing and had a comfortable atmosphere. Even the long bus ride and wait outside in the freezing cold/snow/sleet to get groceries for dinner had a brightside because once we got back to the cabin everyone was already having a beer, playing cards and smashing the hell out of the ping pong balls. We had a good time there.

Inevitably, it became time to say goodbye. We all knew that Bariloche would be the end of our time together, but time always seems to go by so fast. When does it not? Rachel, Lisa and Terry left at about six in the morning and I had all day in Bariloche by myself to sulk and remember everything; from the moment they each arrived to the almost surreal feeling of Rachel stepping away from our hug to step into cab that morning. I felt quite overwhelmed all day and tried my hardest to make for Chile as soon as possible. Luckily, that meant keeping busy for a while. I spoke to my mom and got the phone number for Manolo in Santiago, bought some gifts and bus tickets, etc.

I left the following morning. All in all, Bariloche was good time. It was sad to leave the group, and especially Rachel, but I was able to focus my mind on the excitement of my trip around America, which was now kicking into full swing.