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Cherry Blossom Time in Tokyo

From Cherry Blossoms, Torii Gates and Geishas in Tokyo, Japan on Mar 27 '08

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Fresh Tuna at the Tsukiji Fish Market
Fresh Tuna at the Tsukiji Fish Market
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We lucked out throughout Japan - everywhere we went, we hit the peak of the cherry blossoms.  And, boy, do the Japanese get into cherry blossoms!  Department stores are decorated with blossom motifs; advertisements feature cherry trees in full glory; and any place with two or more blooming trees draws a crowd.  In Tokyo, we hit the peak of the peak of the blooms - Ueno Park was just packed with trees and people.  Blue tarps - the symbol of home construction in the US - are the picnic blanket of the cherry blossom season.  Spread out beneath the trees, the tarps delineate the space for a particular family or work groups or friendship group.  Shoes off, bento boxes opened, and beer or saki to share amongst friends.  There were literally thousands of people enjoying themselves in this way at Ueno Park - and I'm sure at other spots throughout Tokyo - and throughout Japan.  After 12 days of experiencing this connection to nature, it was actually surprising arriving back in the States and seeing blossoming cherry trees with no one under them!  How strange!!

Formal Tea and Sweet, Hama Detached Palace Garden
Formal Tea and Sweet, Hama Detached Palace Garden
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Of course, Japan is more than just cherry trees in bloom; its also about ritual, whether spiritual rituals at Shinto Shrines or Buddhist Temples or the bowing when presenting bills, or the removal of shoes before entering rooms.  There's a formality in nearly all interactions - often subtle but still there.  And I guess its notable to us because its different than our own rituals - our shaking of hands or a quick nod of recognition when passing an acquaintance on the street or making the Sign of the Cross on entering a church.  Travel, to me, is about observation - what's different and why, what's the same and why, and what does this tell us about "them," ourselves and our world.

And all of this within 24 hours of arriving in the country. Never let jet lag get the better of you!
Tea House, Cherry Tree and Skyline, Hama Detached Palace Garden
Tea House, Cherry Tree and Skyline, Hama Detached Palace Garden
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So, some observations about Tokyo.  Its crowded - subways even on a Sunday morning can be packed like a sardine can.  Sidewalks in the older precincts of town can be crowded - though we were surprised at how relatively uncrowded other areas could be, like the Ginza district (the Madison Avenue of Tokyo).

It's more affordable than Europe.  There is this clear misperception that Japan is not affordable for Americans.  Well, that may be, but not when you compare it to Europe for instance.  Yes, you can spend $100 or more per person for dinner in Tokyo (or Kyoto or ...).  But our family of three never went over $75 total for a meal and normally spent between $30-50 - and we ate well - sushi, tempura, noodle bowls, eel, yakisoba, ...  And that price usually include a beer for each adult.  We just followed the plastic food in the windows (diffuses the language problem quite quickly!) or the picture menu to good and affordable eating.  And because we were there during the cherry blossom festivities, there were often street vendors in the parks cooking up noodles, fish, kebabs and other treats are very affordable prices.  And they even sold beer!

Yakisoba Street Vendor
Yakisoba Street Vendor
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Architecture in Tokyo is way out there; urban planning nearly nonexistent; and public transportation interwoven throughout the landscape, though not well integrated with itself - multiple operators with differing fares.

And we did go to some sights!  The exterior grounds of the Imperial Palace;, the Imperial Palace Outer Garden - with their own magnificent cherry trees but without the crowds since picnicing was not allowed!; the Tosho-gu Shrine.  One particularly enjoyable day started out at the Tsukiji Fish Market, then a walk through the Hama Detached Palace Garden (with a wonderful stop at a traditional Tea House for green tea and "sweets"), then an hour+ cruise up the Sumida River to the Asakusa neighborhood where cherry trees lined the river.  Here we purchased food and drink from the sidewalk vendors and join others along the tree and river path to enjoy eating beneath or at least alongside the cherry trees.  Then we continue our walk to the Senso-jim Temple, observing young women in kimonos, seeing portions of a rather troubling street performance involving a not-too-well treated monkey, and then partaking in the ritual washing of hands and mouth, and the lighting of incense before entering the temple itself.  And all of this within 24 hours of arriving in the country.  Never let jet lag get the better of you!

When in Doubt, Point - Another affordable meal in Tokyo
When in Doubt, Point - Another affordable meal in Tokyo
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After three full days of meandering around this multi-centered metropolis, it was time to continue our Japanese journey.  The HIKARI SuperExpress bullet train sped us on our way to western Honshu Island and our next stops - Miyajima Island and Hiroshima.


 

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