Birdsong amongst the marshes - Keoladeo-Ghana NP

Indian watermeadows
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"Kwa.kwa....kwa kwa...kwa kwa.."

Our Schwammi rickshaw driver paused and identified the sound as "grey Indian coot" and then peddled on. The green vegetation buzzed with life around us - insects flitted, birds trilled and the only sound was the creaking of the rickshaw as we peddled around the marsh.

The grey heron amused me as the Schwammi loudly proclaimed "all the way from England" and it stood guard over drying pools bubbling with trapped fish. There were numerous cranes, spoonbills and egrets trying to muscle in on the action

a wood owl
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I must admit I really enjoyed today. India is becoming magical and the stuff they have here is world class. Taking a break from frenetic cities and staying in Bharatpur on the way to Agra. Here at Hotel Sunbird we are only a few hundred yards from the entrance to the Keoladeo-Ghana NP. Even in the fierce Rajasthani hot season it doesnt dry up completely and becomes a haven for birdlife. In fact I have never seen a place bursting with so much animal life.

So it was away from Jaipur this morning and east on another roasting day. Even the buffaloes are feeling the heat and lay in mud pools by the side of the road. Suresh beeps and bullies anything off the road that is the same size or is smaller then him..but occasionally meets his match with one of the big trucks. And we rolled into Bharatpur about 2.00pm and agreed to meet up at about 4.00pm when the ferocious heat dies down.

After a butter chicken (a mistake as it turns out) we went to the cycle-guides who congregate outside the hotel. There was a nasty feeding frenzy as Suresh chose one and we got a Schwammi who pedalled us into the park. We have come at the wrong time of year as winter is the best time to see the migratory birds and now would just be all-year-round birds. Fine, I can cope with that as there was also a good chance of seeing wild boar, python, mongoose or even a panther (leopard) which had been seen in the park.

So we peddled the trails until the light of dusk became too indistinct. There were drying pools everywhere and the Schwammi pointing out "Persian white mallard" or "black beaked stork". We also got sight of a pair of jackals - there are hyenas in the park - who scurried off into the undergrowth.But it was followed by cries of "Hornbill!" "mynah bird" and "Kingfisher" and lo and behold one of the mentioned would be not far away as if on cue.

The grey heron amused me as the Schwammi loudly proclaimed "all the way from England" and it stood guard over drying pools bubbling with trapped fish. There were numerous cranes, spoonbills and egrets trying to muscle in on the action. Also over the drying watermeadows was a herd of massive antelopes called "Nilgai" and a colossal pythan sunning itself on a rock.

As dusk began to fall the place cooled and began to get more animated with peacocks and mongeese rushing across our trail

Mongeese were the Schwammis favourite. "He on the hunt. He looking for cobra to eat."