A close second to the Taj - the spectacular Agra Fort

The view from the pavlions towards the Taj
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Tonight I am back in Delhi.

My tour of Rajasthan is up but my last stop was the incomparable Agra Fort which vies with the Taj as the most stunning thing I saw in Rajasthan and that is against some pretty healthy competiton. But more interestingly the weather has changed. The last five days have been in excruciating heat. Probably the hottest place I have ever been. Your feet were literally burnt as you crossed hot marble.

My favourite was Musamman Burj with an octagonal tower extending from the ramparts and the pavilions were supported by curved columns and latticed walls. Its an enchanting place where you can see in you minds eye nautch dancers and an emporer reclining on cushions laden with jewells.

The gold inlaid pavilions of the Fort
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But this afternoon as we crossed the Indian capital the monsoon is approaching the capital. It was lifting the dust, dirt and rubbish into the air and the great bulk of India Gate was obscured in the dusty haze. The flimsy rickshaws were struggling with the wind but the temperature has dropped seriously.India becomes liveable again.

So, this morning it was with great reluctance that I checked out of the four-star Yar Ami Yatras. We drove past the yellow parks and sleepy rickshaw drivers. We approached the giant red walls and I steeled myself for the ubiquitous hawkers and beggars. I wasnt disapointed one of the beggars was so twisted and deformed he scuttled sideways like a crab. I took a deep breath and used my Taj Pathkar to gain entrance and left the chaos behind.

The walls of the Fort
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I have to say although the Amber Fort, Fatehpur Sikri and the Taj are just as spectacular - the Agra Fort remains my favourite sight in Rajasthan.

Its also mixed with romance. The builder of the Taj Mahal, Emporer Shah Jahan, was imprisoned here in a coup by his own son and gazed from the battlements at his own creation - the Taj Mahal. The idea of an emporer being a prisoner and wistfully gaze across to the 'monument to love'. But it is the scale of the place that is impressive and the first courtyard is enormous and laced with gardens and pavilions. There was room after room leading into the fort. Each of these hot rooms was occupied by a chowdikar (old man). You can spend at least an hours exploring these empty rooms, gardens and pavilions.

They overlook the eastern ramparts/battlements of the fort. There is a fity foot drop into a moat and great views over the Yamuna. This was one of the most exotic views I have ever seen - it takes in the swathes of Agras green parks and the curve of the Yamuna and there is the bulbous dome of the Taj Mahal looming above the vegetation. From here the Taj looks like a fairytale palace and the heat blurs its outline.

The ramparts are very enjoyable.There are a number of verandas and pavilions. My favourite was Musamman Burj with an octagonal tower extending from the ramparts and the pavilions were supported by curved columns and latticed walls. Its an enchanting place where you can see in you minds eye nautch dancers and an emporer reclining on cushions laden with jewells.

I spent an hour exploring the kitchens, passages, and clipped gardens of the Fort and I bumped into another British backpacker while doing it

"Isnt it fantastic here!" he beamed.

Oh yes, how can I disagree with that. A magical place..