Off-season

We hiked up a foothill separating the Croatian coast town of Dubrovnik from Bosnia. From such a height, I noticed that Dubrovnik has three types of roofs -- old weathered ceramic tiles, brand new terra cotta tiles, or no roof at all. The few remaining bombed-out buildings are the only evidence I could see that this walled town was at war seven years ago. From the ground, the town seems like just another quaint, beautiful coastal area enjoying the off-season and going about their lives surrounded by marble buildings and streets.

Our first clue that we were entering a tourist town without tourists was when our bus pulled into the station. A welcome party of about eight landladies greeted our arrival. Jim got off the bus first and was accosted by two women wanting to rent him a room. One of them shooed away anyone else vying for his attention. I waited a couple minutes and then hopped off (divide and conquer!). I could not step off the bus without invading the personal space of a woman telling me about her place for rent. After getting all the details (kitchen?, in town?, bathroom in room?, breakfast included? price?) Jim and I consulted each other with the competitors keeping a watchfull eye over us. We choose one and she escorted us onto the bus and into town. We have been through this routine before and love the ease of being chauffered around. Plus, how can we not support the entreprenurial spirit!