Santa Cruz Trek
From PERU South American adventure in Caraz, Peru on Sep 07 '06
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Early morning after packing our stuff and leaving what we don´t need in Huaraz, managed to eventually get a minibus to Caraz, with only 1 change (unplanned) of bus on the way, an exciting ride in the bus often on the Left, sometimes on the right and usually in the middle of the road!
Packs strapped to roof but made it to our destination intact. got a little tuk-tuk 3 wheeled motorbike to the central plaza and checked into a Hotel called ¨´Perla de las Andes´which is basic but functional as we plan to have an early rise and head to Cashapampa and start the 4 day trek.
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Plan being the optimal word as the local guys listening to Rod Stewart, and boyzone or blue woteva boyband until 2 in the morning had other ideas!
Pete tried his Spanish to ask them to be quiet but went unheard.
Lesson 1 learned , do not stay overlooking central plaza´s
Another lesson learned in Carraz was not to get takeaways and eat in the Central Plaza.
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This was Krises first real experience of beggars, both canine and human type and of all ages and sex looking moaning wantingly as we tried to enjoy our last meal before going on the trekking diet of noodles and soup.
DAY 1 of Santa Cruz Trek
Early moring Tuk-tuk ride to colectivo stand where we managed to cram into an estate /station wagon with 3 in the front, 4 in the back and 2 in the boot with our packs spare tyre and only they know what else! we headed up the bumpy road for a 1.5hrs and finally stopped outside a sign indicating the start of the trek and it was all go!
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What a start to a trek, Steep george with a wonderful but cold river downing out the quiet morning, Pete was attacked by a dog and somehow managed to side kick it in the face as it went open mouthed for his ankle, dogs in Peru are not pets as we know them and get stones thrown at them etc so are a different breed although Kris still can´t help occassionally risking rabies and going in to give them attention.
After the longest hour of uphill slog the valley opened a little and we plodded forward slowly feeling the oxygen decrease as we went higher and the sun got hotter!
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Lunch was spent with miscellaneous donkeys at a carral where most groups stop for the night but we decided to go onto the next site andwere rewarded with a lake side tent site surrounded by nothing but beauty.
After making ourselve a home (the tent) and having our first hot meal of noodles and soup, we were getting ready to hity the sleeping bags (6pm) as it got dark when Sergio appeared from the shadows. Sergio was part of a French trek with only 4 people and cooks, guides, donkeys, and donkeymen. We made him a cup of tea and in return he invited us to their ´dining´tent for an apperitife Hot Pisco a Peru speciality. ANYWAY we ended up being served another 3 course meal while chatting in French and English which disappeared! YUM and THANKYOU !!!
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Next morning the Frtench Guide showed me on a map what there plan was which we stole some ideas and went up to a glacial lake on day 2, a very worthwhile side trek which opened up views of several mountains which were inticing calling out to be climbed, (but not this time)
At about 2 pm, we went to cook some soup for lunch, the rented camp stove had a few pieces which fell apart and got blocked all the time, anyway, Pete put a washer in the wrong place and under pressure the gas bottle started to release fuel all over the grass unbeknown to Pete who struck a match and wooooffff the whole area went up in flames, tussock and all. Pete tried to put it out with his foot but nothing was happening, within seconds the fuel can and stove was flying threw the air for the stream which quickly extinguished the fire, next problem was trying to get the stove before it was washed away and within seconds Pete was in his boxers wading into the freezing water.
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Luckily it was saved and the washer put in the right place and we were able to havce hot food and drinks for the rest of the trek!
Our campsite on Day 2 was a grassy knoll in the middle of the stream with loads of other trekers going in both direntions all staying at the same place.
Pete insisted on an early rise and after hot blackcurrent drink we headed off up the swithchbacks to the col (the Punta Union Pass 4750m) the mountain kept getting bigger but we had a few hours headstart on the masses and before we knew it we were the first at the top. After a few pics etc we set up the stove to make popcorn, the first cloudy day in ages meant the views weren´t as spectatular as we had wished for but still amazing.
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After trading popcorn for fresh fruit and a hot orange drink we started the descent which went on and on, people coming the other direction looked far worse for wear than we were and one guy looked so bad we stopped him and gave him some of our water, he was suffering from altitude sickness big time, which we avoided this time thanks to the previious trek!
We camped next the the French guys again by a lovely river and had a peaceful night chatting with trekers going the other direction and saying goodbye to the French group who we had got to know quite well, they are off for a 10 day trek after 1 days rest, lucky things.
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DAY 4 : After a relaxing morning we treked down through some villages and to Krises delight were faced with an uphill to end the trek, chafing and all!
At the end of the track we were greeted by a guide from another group, a combi van had turned up to collect a group a day early and he had got them to wait for us as well seeing us approaching with backpacks on so without delay we jumped in and start the return drive back over the range to Yungay.
We had hoped to visit Charlie but had no luck finding his place, so eventually agreed to go back to Huaraz and up to his brothers mountain lodge for a couple of days relaxation. The journey back turned into an adventure when the driver tried to maximise things collecting people as we drove at one stage we had 21 adults in a little van, packs strapped to roof and very hot!
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