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Paradise!

From Hill's Round the World in Mozambique on Oct 03 '06

Hillary has visited no places in Mozambique
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Tofo, Mozambique. I heard all about it through Daniel, my tent-mate in Namibia, but when he told me about how people come here and don't leave I didn't think that would be me. Well I'm here, I've been here since last Tuesday, and I plan to be here 'till the very last minute. I am loving life right now.

When I got here I had booked a bed in a dorm at Fatima's, the hip backpacker's place, right on the beach. Upon arrival I wanted to leave. The place was filled with young kids who were up all night drinking and partying, and I felt like a shrivelled up old lady. The second day I was there, after another sleepless night (the bar was close to my room and they had loud music and lots of "woooohoooo"ing until 6 a.m.), I knew I had to find a better place to stay or leave town, I just felt really out of place. I also wanted to try to rent a surf board because I had no idea how I was going to fill my days in such a sleepy beach town (I love the sun but lying on the beach day in and day out isn't me). I had read that you could rent surf boards from Turtle Cove so I headed up there and found Teagan, the 21 year old South African surfer from Jeffrey's Bay who manages Turtle Cove. He showed me around, first to a "brick chalet" that he was renting for $20 a night (too much), then he showed me the reed huts, which he was renting for the same price ($8/night) I was paying for my bed in the tiny, mouse infested dorm at Fatima's. I couldn't believe my luck. Sure, we weren't right on the beach, but I can walk the 5 minutes to get there.

c'est moi avec la sofie
c'est moi avec la sofie
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I moved up to TC on Wednesday and I have my own little reed hut, with a bathroom!!! And a double bed!!! I can't even begin to tell you what a luxury this is after spending the last six weeks in a communal sleeping situation of some sort or another. Not only that, but at Turtle Cove there is a whole yoga room that I have all to myself (no pictures, cause I forgot to take them before I came to town). And the food is heavenly. Each night I choose: do I want prawns? grilled fish? fish kebabs? matapa? And these meals for $4 each.

brooo! (Teagan)
brooo! (Teagan)
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My first night at TC I met Sofie, a swiss doctor, just my age, and the only other person staying there. It is great to have some female companionship, and she is very sweet. She is on holiday for just a month, her boyfriend is coming next week, and she is spending her time diving here in Tofo. We eat together, go to the beach, and just hang out, and act as the old ladies of the establishment. Teagen is hilarious. For 21 he is actually pretty well organized, but he is still a surfer "broo" (he calls us all broo, instead of brother, or bro, like, "check this, broo..."). He is still learning how to run a hotel- he's only been at it for 6 weeks so we remind him of the importance of a shopping list when he goes to town, and things like that. In our crew we also have Fred, a Canadian who is getting his dive master here, and there is Sarmento and Hadley, Sarmento from Tofo- he sells sarongs on the beach and Hadley from Zimbabwue- he sells tapestries.

turtle cove
turtle cove
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Somehow, the days are flying by and they are all melting into one. I have been surfing as much as possible, when there are waves (small mushy ones like I like), and it's not too windy. Otherwise Sofie and I go swimming and bodysurfing. I spend an hour or 2 a day doing yoga and meditating, and I read a lot.

Yesterday I was talking to some people in town and the topic of yoga came up. They wanted to join me so I channeled Perry, my yoga teacher, and led a short session. I must say I am not a yoga teacher and I felt like a poser but I pretty much have Perry memorized so it worked and everyone felt good afterward.

That is pretty much my life here. Until now I have been moving so much from place to place it feels great to just chill in one spot, one very beautiful spot. It feels like holiday, not travel, and a part of me feels like I should be seeing the "real" Mozambique, not just the most popular tourist destination but I think it is a good idea to do this when I can, and when I find a good place, and until now I have been moving a lot. It is interesting to be here and see how the town works and get to know some of the people, and just enjoy the slow, african lifestyle. Mike and I will be moving a lot in China, then Bridget arrives the day Mike leaves and we will be travelling a lot, too, some in China and some in India. So for now I am just relaxing, feeling what it is like to have nothing to do. I think I like it.

One more week here then I make my way back to Jo'burg, the dreaded city. On the 15th I fly to Hong Kong to meet Mike. I am so excited to see Mike and travel in China but my heart will be sad to leave Africa, this is a special place.


Giovanna avatar Giovanna on Oct. 4, 2006 @ 05:08PM said
Hi Hill. Finally you've found paradise in Africa. I am very happy for you! I'm reading your journal every time also because it makes me feel a little travelling and it gives me some excitement too. Thanks for Jo'burg and SA's history: very interesting. Good luck and a presto!

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