Iguassu Falls
From Argentina in Iguacu National Park, Brazil on Aug 21 '05
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Iguassu Falls is an awesome scenic wayspot. If you can, head for the Brazil side in the morning and the Argentina side in the evening (lighting is better for photos). Unfortunately, the Brazil side is closed on Mondays so we didn't get to go there.
First we walked along the upper circuit, which traces the ridge along the upper set of falls and you can see the long ling of falls fringing the entire ridgeway. There must be at least two dozen falls here, some of which have two sections on them. In a lot of them you can see birds hiding/nesting under the falls. At the end you'll see San Martin Falls, one of the largest falls - often framed by raindows. This is an extremely easy walk... I was amused by the difficult rating "no stairs."
End of the Earth
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Following the lower circuit lets you look at the falls from a different angle (a little more in your face and upclose). Down there you can take two boats, the first boat takes you over to San Martin island, a short little hike to get a middle-level view of the falls. Also, there is the"Baptism by the Falls" boat ride where they drive directly INTO some of the falls, drenching-blinding-half drowning you completely as the current spits you out like a bad grape. It's kind of fun (20 pesos or 7 dollars). There are a bunch of stone steps to go down... again official difficult rating "stairs."
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Along the walk to/from the Devil's Throat (it's about 1km walk along a completely flat catwalk built up the rivers from the trail head), there are hundreds of butterflies flit and follow you like they are playing with you, they land on everything, including your body and gently probe around with their hair thin proboses. But also a bit eerie.
Niagara Falls is impressive, but doesn't have the natural magesty of Iguassu's Gargantua de Diablo (Devil's Throat) - a gigantic semicircular gullet of cascading white water crashing into the misty oblivion below, if you look more closely at the misty spray (also scene at San Martin Fallsin the upper circuit) you will tropical birds swirl, dart in a frentic maelstorm of activity - like a living tornado. Furthermore, several medium size waterfalls line the valley extending from both sides of the throat as well, like a crack in the very earth itself into which the river drains (it actually is a geological fault). Also along the way are the ruins of the old catwalk, destroyed in the floods of 1992... the park official thought it would be amusing I guess to show you what happens if the waters get too high.
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If you still have time, you can take the little train to the entrance and head 2 miles along the Macuco trail which takes you to Arretrea Falls, which are tiny and not actually part of the main falls, bit the isolated and secluded feeling makes you feel more like an explorer than a tourist as all of the rest of the falls are nearly all wheelchair accessible. It's kind of hard to find though - after getting off the train look into the grassy field directly next to the platforms and you'll see the sign. That will take you to the access and you walk BACK along that for like a half mile till you see the true entrance. Look and listen for Coatimundi's on the trail, they look like stretched out racoons and come in packs... they have no fear of humans... although I did seem the baby in a pack of 10 panick and run back across the trail and get stuck in the little valley next it.This hike is along a dirt path for a while (especially on the return) and there is a noticeably steep dropoff right that you have to go down, before the falls and the pool.
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Tips: Going in the "winter" (July-August) makes the weather totally bearable (although bring lots of bug repellant and put it on every few hours or drenching in water). If you decide to take the baptism ride, prepared to be drenched in a firehose like spray.
For those who enjoy photography... bring a wide angle lens... 28mm or wider, maybe even a fisheye. These falls are huge and very hard to put into the frame. Since they rarely let you take night shots, consider bringing some neutral density filters and a tripod to get some long exposure shots... the water lookings otherwordly milky if you do that. Make sure to bring a plastic bag to store your gear as there is a lot of water and mist.
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