The Antarctic Swimming Club

“In individuals, insanity is rare; but in groups…it is the rule.” – Friedrich Nietzsche, Beyond Good and Evil

We began our day with a pleasure cruise around Challenger Island via Zodiac, the best part of which was certainly a couple Humpback Whales moseying down Murray Harbour (see photos). We also explored some splendid glacial formations at the water’s edge of Challenger, ensuring to keep a safe distance of course…trust me, the glacier always wins.

“This certifies that on Monday, February 18, 2008 while in the presence of Gentoo Penguins and a Weddell Seal, Tim Shoup most valiantly entered the waters of the Southern Ocean at Neko Harbour, off the Antarctic Continent (64 degrees 50.7’ S, 62 degrees 31.9’ W), when the observed temperature of the ocean registered 0 degrees Celsius. We solemnly acknowledge that this was an act of indubitable courage (as well as extraordinary, incomparable foolishness).

Time to go swimming…

Our excursion into Neko Harbour in Andvord Bay was our single continental landing on Antarctica and definitely a highlight of my trip. We hiked up to a spectacular overlook of Neko, a calving glacier at the base of the harbour, pods of Minke Whales and a couple Humpback Whales making their way across the inlet and up the bay. The modest trek was the perfect way to get the heart rate up, the blood pumping and the body warmed up ahead of a planned foray (along with 10 or so other equally mentally incompetent souls) into the icy waters of Antarctica.

After walking back down the slope and spending an eternity playing with a very curious, funny and clearly hungry Gentoo Penguin chick (gotta see the pictures) who eventually turned into an inveterate pickpocket, I stripped down to nothing but my swim shorts and charged with great gusto and imprudence headlong into frosty Neko Harbour.  While the pictures tell the story more or less, I managed a complete diving submersion and reeled off 3 solid strokes in the 0-degree Celsius water (Antarctic waters freeze at -1.8 degrees Celsius due to the high salinity) before emerging above waterline, howling in agony at the top of my lungs, turning tail and porpoising & sprinting back to shore as fast as my rigor-mortis legs could carry me. Surprising to me upon my immediate exit from the waters was how warm the surrounding air felt…despite the wind and freezing temperatures, I felt showered with the pleasant embrace of a temperate 70-degree day in SoCal. And although I physically felt fine at the moment (and wasn’t in any rush to dress or get back to the Professor), my body was evidently in some sort of shock. No worries, though.

Not bothering with the full re-dress, I eventually threw on the Arcteryx waterproof pants over my frozen shorts and the expedition-provided wellies (rubber boots) over my sandy, numb bare feet and, at Conrad’s persistent urging, hopped in a Zodiac for a quick ride outta Neko…no need to flirt with hypothermia (even though I did feel fine, but was obviously deranged). Back on the Professor, the ritual scrubwashing of the boots, gloves and pants was a very quick and very shaky affair. Finally inside and armed with cups of warm, spiced mulled wine, Matt G, Bobby J, Aly, Koral and I headed down to the on-board sauna for a requisite 20-minute revitalization. Ah…hot, dry air! It did feel good.

While my time in the frigid Antarctic waters was probably less than 30 seconds, I am now the proud bearer of a certificate testifying to my membership in the Antarctic Swimming Club, as follows:

“This certifies that on Monday, February 18, 2008 while in the presence of Gentoo Penguins and a Weddell Seal, Tim Shoup most valiantly entered the waters of the Southern Ocean at Neko Harbour, off the Antarctic Continent (64 degrees 50.7’ S, 62 degrees 31.9’ W), when the observed temperature of the ocean registered 0 degrees Celsius. We solemnly acknowledge that this was an act of indubitable courage (as well as extraordinary, incomparable foolishness). Based on the Expedition Leader’s observance of this act of absurd heroism, and the Ship’s Doctor’s confirmation of the said person’s temporary loss of any common sense, we consider the bearer of this certificate a member of the Antarctic Swimming Club.”  Signed by Conrad Hennig, Expedition Leader and Andrew Christophers, Ship’s Doctor.

Photos (Neko Harbour & Swimming): http://flickr.com/photos/timothyshoup/sets/72157603999777107/

Photos (Challenger Island): http://flickr.com/photos/timothyshoup/sets/72157603995866978/

Well, I am now definitely certified or certifiable or something like that…