Montjuic - Hill of the jews - where the Olympics float over Barcelona..

The entrance to Maremagnum
see all photos »

If I were to compare the two cities then I would say Madrids manic madness just edges out Barcelonas sophistication but it is still a terrific city to enjoy yourself in. A glass of sangria in a bordega of La Ramblas is a perfect way to start the night. But the clubs they had in this city had that little touch of style, that little whisker of Catalan panache. 'Punto BCN' is the main gay bar in Barcelona. The music is so famous it now combines resources with 'The Ministry of Sound' in London and tours around the world. There I met an American called Kurt, ex-US Army, and had a definite opinion about Europe. He didnt quite understand it and got offended at the lassirez-faire attitude of the bar staff. I wondered what he'd be like at the end of his two week stay - embracing Europe or rebelling against it?

The whole of Port Vell
see all photos »

The next morning was rather overcast and suited my hangover mood. Sunshine is not the best thing for an aching head. Today was going to be spent having a look at Montjuic. The mountain that overlooks the city. I'd caught its outskirts each evening as I took in the Font Magica but now was time to explore its summit. In the rainy daylight the fifty fountains leading up to the Palau National were dead and the fountain itself looked like a large open sunflower. The weight activated escalators take you up to the summit and the Palau National.The view from here across Barcelona was superb with the towers of the Sagrada Familia in the distance.

That is what makes Barcelona so great it has a real tradition of modern art. It combines it in architecture and urban planning. The only place I have seen do this as success is Paris.

Montjuic is one of Barcelonas architectural showcases and was spruced up for the 1992 Olympics. Dominating the area was the gigantic Estadi Olympic. To me the 1992 Olympiad was one of the best with none of the politics of Moscow or Los Angeles. The great Estadi was built in thirties but was given a facelift in the nineties. But more impressive was the square we faced. The Anella Olympic was a colossal plaza dotted with curling modern sculpture and dotted with surrealistic columns. That is what makes Barcelona so great it has a real tradition of modern art. It combines it in architecture and urban planning. The only place I have seen do this as successfully is Paris.

I took the funicular down to Port Vell. You emerge in Avinguda Paralell in workaday Barcelona. For all its artistic merit Barcelona can be a rough town (as I was to learn the next day) and this section is grimy and skuzzy and rather a risky cuththrough to the harbour. You wander pass the Drassanes, the old medieval shipyards, built in a time when Barcelona was up there with Genoa and Amalfi in the maritime stakes. The ndown to the Maremagnum and I spent an enjoyable couple of hours at the Museu de Catalunya  which sated my history addiction. Then back up to the Eixample and my hotel.

That night I got changed into my finery but as I set out the heavens opened and Barcelona was awash with rain. Everyone was stranded in the doorways as the roads turned into rivers. I had no choice but the spend the night at the hotel.

I was meant to meet up with Kurt but had to stand him up. Oh well, I'm sure he can annoy the barman all on his own. He doesnt need me to be there..