On the rails to Mandalay

Dawn in Yangon
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Up early for the 4:30 am train to Mandalay. A young man self appointed himself as my guide and at first I was annoyed but once I stepped into the chaos of the station, I was glad he knew how to get me to my train. He also ejected someone sitting in my seat and seemed overjoyed with the dollar tip I gave him. I was expecting a modern German built train but this one had seen better days. The good thing was that there was a lot of leg space and the seat was a comfortable reclining one. I was in Upper Class ($43 US … probably 100 times more than the local fare). I had a window seat and enjoyed seeing the countryside (when not snoozing).

Mandalay Railway Station
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One of the most striking images was people watching the train as we left Yangon ; the Burmese women and children wear a white paste on their face to protect them from the sun (or from mosquitoes, or even as makeup … depending on which book you read) These white faces (and especially the children) looked like ghosts in the early dawn light .. almost menacing.

14 hours is a long journey and I was exhausted when I arrived in Mandalay. We came through Pyinmama, the new headquarters for the government – either it is not close to the railway or I was asleep. Mostly I saw lots of primitive farming .. many people in the fields and only one or two tractors during the 12 hours of daylight – most of the carts were pulled by oxen, water buffalo or people. There were none of those small Japanese tractors so ubiquitous in Thailand (they can be used for plowing, irrigation and in a pinch, can haul a flat bed wagon for people transport).

Every bridge of any size had an armed guard posted .. I think they were part of the Railway Police and not the army. Burma suffered a lot from floods earlier this month, so occasionally the rail bed was washed out and at least two of the bridges did not seem all that safe, but we went at a snail’s pace. I was taking a photograph of one of these sites and got a stare from a fellow passenger which indicated I’d best desist.

The Pacific Hotel is right across the street from Mandalay Central Station but I still had to battle my way through an army of people trying to sell hotel or travel services. My room was Superior for $25 per night .. air con, telly (but no English language channels) and the room boy brought hot tea which was welcome. The restaurant in the hotel proved to be hopeless .. huge menu but nothing in the kitchen other than some type of expensive fish … luckily I had a stash of nuts so had a snack before lights out.