Barrydale has much to explore - a python, a chair for women, wine, hikes & much more

Pastel-painted houses of Barrydale's township
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For more pics, check Mare's http://capetownhikingpics.atspace.com/Barrydale%2029%20Dec%202006%20to%201%20Jan%202007/index.html

Barrydale is a place that I’ve always bypassed on the way to other places – the Garden Route, Plett and Touwerkop. It was only when Tony Burton organised a long weekend of day hikes staying in a farmhouse owned by Barrydale Municipality, that I discovered what a beautiful little country town it is, filled with fascinating oddities, farmstalls and eclectic-style buildings.

Barrydale is situated in the fertile Tradouw Valley

Under a sky threatening rain
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Barrydale is approximately three hours drive from Cape Town along the N1 passing through Worcester and then turning off onto the excellently marketed Route 62, known as the world’s longest wine route and broken by quaint towns. Surely no other subsidiary road is as well known as Route 62?

From Worcester drive through Robertson and Ashton, passing through Cogman’s Kloof Pass with its amazing example of Cape folded mountains, making you feel like you’re drunk. From Montagu, drive through the fertile Tradouw Valley, lying between the coastal belt and the Karoo and thankfully having a higher rainfall than the Karoo. It’s a further 66km to Barrydale, lying in a valley below the Langeberg Mountains, between the fertile folds of the Overberg and Klein Karoo regions.

The municipal farmhouse and our home for New Year
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The town is named after James Barry, an early settler in the Overberg, who was not only a trader but acted as lawyer, agent and auctioneer, deputy sheriff and commandant of militia. Today, the town has an estimated population of 3 500 permanent residents, this number increasing dramatically in the tourist season.

As with most small South African towns, Barrydale is split in two with pastel-painted houses of the ‘township’ on the western part of town, while the Cape Dutch-style houses with broekie lace and rose-bordered gardens are in the valley. Local slate has been used in the construction of some of the buildings; several artistically while others are over the top kitsch.

Barrydale off Route 62
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As we sit on the veranda of the farmhouse, the surrounding mountains change colour and herders pass by with cows and goats. Early morning, we are woken to a noisy symphony of birds, including the calls of the Hadeda ibis as they leave their roosts.

I’ve heard stories about pythons in the Country Pumpkin Restaurant, but it’s apparently too cold for him to make an appearance today. I was told about special chairs in the Barrydale Hotel Andthere’s a chair in the Barrydale Hotel which is apparently of particular interest to women – the mind boggles! According to Mare Ascott, there are three chairs: a white plastic one is in the shape of a hand, and if you sit in it, you sit in the palm of the hand. Another one has a naked man and naked women painted on the fabric but you don't see the private parts because a small cushion covers them. I think they used antique chairs to cover with this fabric. There are other furniture pieces covered with naked bodies as well...

Country Pumpkin Restaurant on Route 62 and above Barrydale
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Apart from wine tasting, there are a number of activities in and around Barrydale, including an outdoor labyrinth, built in 1998 by Peter and Nola Frazer, owners of a farm The Manger in Lemoenshoek (15km from Barrydale, towards Ladismith on the R62). They chose to replicate the eleven-circuit Labyrinth embedded in the floor of Charters Cathedral (12th Century, France). Their farm offers a stunning view of the Langeberg Mountains and the Labyrinth is surrounded by a beautiful garden, home to an interesting variety of plants.

Some of the houses are built with local slate
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It’s necessary to make an appointment to walk the Labyrinth as it attracts pilgrims from everywhere. There is no charge for this, however donations are welcomed and go towards upkeep and helping with the Centre for Rehabilitation of Wildlife at The Manger. Contact them on 028 572 1643 or e-mail: frazerp@iafrica.com

Cape Crow - Cape Centre for Rehabilitation Of Wildlife was started when Matthew, a tiny orphaned baby baboon, was brought to The Manger. A multitude of other orphaned, injured, traumatised or abandoned wild animals and birds have since arrived. Many have been released and some, like the baboons, who are part of the Joshua Baboon Rehabilitation Project, will be released in the future. Check the website www.baboons.co.za

Other buildings are overdone and inclined to kitsch
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Barrydale's history began in the early 1700's when farmers moved into the area because it was particularly desirable fertile land with water. They settled in the valley and after a while decided that they needed their own church and chose a spot where today the R62 and R324 roads meet.

Today, Barrydale is the centre of a prosperous farming district because farmers were encouraged to plant vineyards and orchards. The warm temperate climate is perfect for the growth of various fruit trees with orchards producing apples, pears, apricots, figs, cling peaches, grapes and oranges and the fruit is used for canning and export. Olives and grapes were also planted and so it was natural that a winery and distillery would eventually be built. The Barrydale Koöperative Wynkelder was formed in 1940 and distillery set up, giving rise to the wine industry in the area. The winery has some first class wines for sale to the public and the Joseph Barry Brandy, made on a local farm, was voted the best brandy in the world in 2003.

A restaurant/bar between Montagu and Barrydale
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Botanically much can be seen within a few kilometres of the town. Barrydale is situated in transitional veld with the mountain range on the south of the town having fynbos vegetation, while the area north of the town is the beginning of the winter rainfall succulent Karoo.

Nearby is the Tradouw Pass, a Hottentot word meaning “the women’s poort or footpath”. Historically a permanent population of Quena or Hottentot people of the Attaqua tribe inhabited the area. The Attaqua had a path, parts of which are still visible today, through the Langeberg to the village now known as suurbraak, but known by them as xairu, meaning beautiful. This path followed the deep, steep ravine known today as the Tradouw Poort.

Picturesque windmill
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Having been to Barrydale on two occasions, I need to go back as I haven’t hiked all the trails and seen all the sites.

Note:

Barrydale Spring Festival is one of the biggest events on the town calendar. It takes place on Friday to Sunday, this year (2206) on the 24 to 26 October. The ever popular Joseph Barry Tradouw Pass Half Marathon on Saturday the 25th gives the super fit the opportunity to stretch their legs for over 21 km through the pass while the rest can enjoy the stalls and watch the parade through town.