Back where we started from - Lisbon

Museu Condes de Castro Guimaraes
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I boarded the first train out of Faro on Monday morning and began the 5 hour trip back to Lisbon, another fairly uneventful journey.  As the train got about an hour out of the Oriente Train Station, I realised (thanks to our trusty Lonley Planet Guide) that I could get off at the following station and navigate via the Metro back to the Dom Carlos Park Hotel and save myself at least an hour in travel time.

It was with some pride that I arrived at the Marque De Pombal station within half an hour with no hiccups or wrong trains!

Museu Condes de Castro Guimaraes
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I checked into the hotel and the staff remembered me from our first visit and kept calling me Mrs xxxx, I pleaded with them to call me Petrina to which they replied "yes Mrs xxxx". Another cruel twist - because I had returned to the hotel for my last 3 days, they upgraded my room, so I had this huge bedroom and sitting room all to myself. Coming back to the same hotel, in hindsight, was not a good idea, I kept expecting Mac to be there as everything was the same - the rooms, the staff, the breakfast ARGHHH.

Along the Promenade to Estoril, looking back to Cascais
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Still, I was determined to make the most of my last few days and had planned a full itinerary.

The next morning I caught the train down to Cascais. Cascais is about 45 minutes out of Lisbon on the coast and is very popular resort town in the summer. Having once been the hang out of the Royals, Cascais is neat, pretty and very pleasant. There are many, many shops and restaurants and is just a nice place to stroll around.

Once place I wanted to visit was the Museu Condes de Castro Guimaraes. It was built in the late 19th century and reminscent of the Quinta De Regalia in Sintra. Originally built by an Irishman (of course) it was bought off the unlucky Irishman by the Count of Castro Guimaraes and upon his death, he bequeathed the house and all its contents to the local council as there were no children to leave the house to.

Museu Condes de Castro Guimaraes
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The Guimaraes was a gorgeous place, set back from the rocky shore, quirky and intriguing. I was the only person on the tour, so really got a feel for the house as all  of the house contents were left as was when the Count died. One thing that clearly came across was how truly the Count and his wife loved each other, it was in the gifts he had given her and the atmosphere inside the house. Because I was the only one on the tour, the guide took me into the library and I was able to look at some very old books. One book dated from the 17th century and had drawings of Lisbon before the 1755 earthquake, just fascinating.

The Casino Letdown at Estoril
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There is a wide 2 kilometer long promanade that extends from Cascais to the next resort town of Estoril, so with nothing better to do, I walked to Estoril. I have to say the walk was just lovely, with the Atlantic on one side and impressive homes on the other it was an easy stroll. Along the way were little cafes, so there was no fear of perishing from hunger or thirst.

My reason for going to Estoril was the Casino. The James Bond book Casino Royale was inspired by this particular casino, so I thought it must be worth seeing. With high expectations I found my way to the Casino which was very underwhelming and I have no idea how it could inspire anyone, let alone a novelist!

Last sunset in Lisbon
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It is a massive plain, square building, with a huge expanse of empy lawn before it and a half arsed water feature about 3/4 of the way up the lawn. Surely, I thought to myself,this can not be it, I checked our guidebook and it was confirmed - this was it.

Ever hopeful, I thought perhaps the splendour must be inside, so off I trotted, to check out the interior. I entered and was greeted with lots of glossy black marble, mirrors and neon lights. It was totally disorientating and took a couple of seconds to get my bearings. It was not attractive or welcoming in any way and looked to be full of slot machines.  I ventured in further and found nothing of any interest on the first level, so took the escalator up, and found the second floor was even more boring. Just lots and lots of slot machines.

I did one more lap to be sure I hadnt missed anything and when I was convinced I had not, I made my exit. I can't really complain, this was the only thing that had disappointed me on the entire trip, if I was a gambler, I am sure I would have love this place!!

I headed back to Lisbon and amused myself at the Internet cafe for a while until it was dinner time. Eventually it was too cold to be aimlessly wandering around at night alone so I headed back to the hotel.

My last full day in Lisbon. I wanted to head back to Belem and eat some more pastiche and sit in the Jeronimos cathedral for an hour or so and soak up the peace and quiet.

Just like a local, I jumped on the number 15 tram and headed back to Belem and straight to the Patiche du Belem and in almost perfect Portugese ordered my Nata ( I posted the empty bag to Mac, complete with crumbs and sugar sachet). With a happy tummy I went straight to the Jeronimos, looking forward very much to my peace and quiet.

How wrong could I be! Not being particularly religious, it didnt occur to me that major christmas services would be broadcast from this beautiful cathederal in two days. The entire chapel was covered in scaffolding, TV cameras and workmen putting it all together and my peace and quiet disappeared in a puff of smoke. Still I was determined to find somewhere I could sit and comtemplate, so headed out to the cloisters.

Oh joy, the place was crawling with American and Japanese tourists whom do not understand the concept that Cloister is not Portugese for 'shout loudly'. Despite the interruptions, I spent an hour walking around and checking out everything I could. Even with lots of tourists, this cathederal was still beautiful and elegant.

In the Cathederal complex is an interesting Archeological museum and worth a visit. They have an extroidinary collection of stone sarcophagus and grave goods as well as original Roman mosiac floors. Its a nice way to spend an hour or so. Although again I had Mummy Issues in the Egyptian room, swear the damn thing moved.

After the museum, I did find my peaceful place, sitting right next to the Descombres Monument on the waters edge. It was a sunny afternoon, and was so nice to sit in the sun and just watch the world go by. With nothing else better to do really and feeling restless again, I walked the five kilometeres back into Lisbon and visited an art museum that amused me for another hour or so. There was a staggering amount of religious art, really, how many ways can one paint Jesus!! I think just to be different, someone ought to paint Jesus smiling and looking very happy, no blood, no thorns, relaxing in a deck chair with a cocktail.

After the art museum, the day was drawing to an end, so I headed to the Placa Commercial for the last time and watched a stunning sunset over the harbour with all the couples (oh great). I passed my last evening pleasantly which was a surprise. I hit the shops for some last minute retail therapy. I always find for whatever reason, shopping on my last day or night, I always find just what I have been looking for!

Christmas was now two days away and the city centre was buzzing with the most wonderful atmosphere. I went to a large cafe on the Rossario Square and sat outside for ages with my coffee just watching all the activity. It was freezing cold but it added the beauty. All the christmas lights were blazing, christmas carols blaring out loudly, chestnut sellers on the corner with their plumes of smoke coming off their carts. Everyone was dashing about with parcels and packages and everyone was smiling and happy, it really felt like christmas.

But all good things must come to an end, so my last night and amazing holiday in Portugal had come to a close. It was time to say adeus e goodnight.