Camino Experiences

The Camino is about experiences and today provided several, two of which, I will share.  In Galicia, I have become a fan of Pulpo (octopus), which I experienced in a Galician Pulperia in Melide.  The restaurant contained long dark wood benches and tables, at which were seated a "communitas" of pilgrims from all over the world.  The octopus is boiled in large copper cauldrons and the tentacles are cut up with large shears, then sprinkled with olive oil, paprika, and coarse salt, and served on wooden trenchers.  Each diner is given a toothpick with which to nibble from the trencher.  This is served with coarse Galician bread and chilled red wine in large pitchers, the contents of which are poured into ceramic bowls from which the diners drink.

Later, down a dark alley, I discovered a motorcycle repair shop where a band of Galician bagpipers were holding a practice.  The leadpiper had a long flowing grey beard that reached to mid chest and the rest of the pipers were all middle aged males.  The drummers were all female.  As the leader tried to instruct the drummers, one of them became so upset, that she turn her back on him and started to lead the women herself.  It was clear that she was having none of the old ways, and that change was coming to Galicia, in sad but terribly foreseeable ways.

The Camino is about experiences