Grassington to Linton, Yorkshire Dales

Old engine house, Linton Falls, Yorkshire Dales
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We threw open the curtains and … it was very, very wet outside. Worse still, our clothes were also very, very wet. Evidently the radiators hadn’t come on over night. In the end we resorted to drying clothes and boots with the two mini hairdryers in our rooms. J’s waterproof trousers inflated like a balloon, as we held one dryer up each leg!

Over breakfast we made a hard decision. We had intended to get a taxi to a place called Mallam Cove, famed for its spectacular scenery. But it is a very open landscape with no shelter; not a sensible destination given the current weather conditions. Still we can always come back another year.

that great Yorkshire speciality a rich fruitcake served with a large chunk of Wensleydale cheese!

Linton Falls, Yorkshire Dales
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It was pouring down when we left the guest house, so we decided to take the opportunity to explore the shops in Grassington. The Dales Country Clothes shop boldly claimed to offer four floors of retail therapy. I’m not sure how it managed to squeeze them all in, but it certainly lived up to the hype! I found myself a bargain fleece to go with my nice new waterproof coat and J, who was fed up with getting soaked, bought a waterproof hat.

Further on we found an excellent sweet shop, full of local and exotic delicacies. I bought bags of Yorkshire mix, rosie apples and cinder toffee for various family and friends, plus some Turkish delight for Mum!

Linton Church, Yorkshire Dales
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After touring the many and varied gift shops and galleries we took a break in the Retreat Café. This fine tea shop not only welcomes muddy walkers but its profits go towards a local animal charity. What’s more it only sells vegetarian or vegan products. Normally I would be wary of any such worthy place, particularly as I am most definitely a meat eater. But there isn’t a lentil or hippie in sight. Instead it serves the most fantastic homemade cakes which look (and taste) incredible. J and I couldn’t resist trying some of the scones, but Y decided to wait until after our walk – when apparently we are coming back.

There must be an easier way in! Yorkshire Dales
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We finally set off towards the river ignoring the rain that clearly had no intention of stopping. The meadow we picked our way across was totally sodden and the river has clearly swollen since we last passed this way. Linton Falls had been totally transformed. It had looked impressive earlier in the week but now it was a raging torrent of water. Y decided she was going to rebuild the derelict engine house and make a fortune generating electricity and selling it back to the National Grid.

Before she could complete her business plan, we dragged her off, past the mill buildings towards Linton Church. She wasn’t the only would be entrepreneur around here. We pass one cottage selling brightly coloured, hand knitted socks and another selling bird boxes. Unfortunately it was the latter that Y took a shine to but we pointed out she would be carrying it back not us!

The Devonshire Arms, Yorkshire Dales
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After looking around Linton’s pretty church with its mix of Norman and Victorian architecture, we crossed the graveyard to reach the river. I was curious to see what had happened to the stepping stones that we saw earlier in the week. We had a good look, but they had been totally overwhelmed by the water. This was bad news for the couple who had followed us to the river bank. The husband, with his walking poles, clearly meant business. His wife trailed behind him looking distinctly fed up. They had evidentially planed to cross the river as there was nowhere else to go except back past Linton Mill. Still he strode on, clearly not wanting to look foolish. That was the last we saw of them, hopefully they weren’t swept away!

The Chapel in Linton, Yorkshire Dales
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We backtracked and then headed up the hill towards the real village of Linton. It turned out to be a surprising distance from the Church and the Mill. As we climbed up, the sun came out and I began to overheat. Eventually we passed a bus shelter and I nipped inside to remove my waterproof trousers. This was easier said than done as I had forgotten to undo the zips around my ankles, meaning I couldn’t get them past my boots. Eventually, after a great deal of hopping about, I managed to free myself. Thank goodness the bus didn’t drive past!

Grassington, Yorkshire Dales
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Linton village was extremely pretty. At its centre were two bridges, one for the road and another nearby for pedestrians. This led to a pretty village green with a strangely ornate building overlooking it. On closer inspection this turned out to contain a tiny chapel between two cottages. We peeked inside to admire the simple interior and the stunning view through the chapel window behind the altar.

Tempting though the nearby Fountaine’s Inn was, the stern sign inside ordering us to remove our boots and the unwelcoming glare of the staff quickly change our mind. Instead we took a footpath away from the village, passing a series of old barns, a few ratty looking raspberry canes and a distinctly unfriendly 10ft tall wall. Then we were away again over fields full of curious sheep. At one point we had to cross a bridge over … well over nothing! It evidently used to cross an old railway line which had long since disappeared. In the distance we could make out the route it took along an embankment and over the road from Grassington.

The local Internet Cafe, Grassington, Yorkshire Dales
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We eventually reached the village of Threshford. It was a real shock when we emerged from the fields onto the busy road that runs through it. There wasn’t much of a footpath and the cars and lorries didn’t make any allowance for pedestrians. One car very nearly took me out when the pavement briefly disappeared entirely. I literally had to jump back out of the way. Thankfully this stretch of road didn’t last long and we soon turned away towards Grassington.

After crossing the River Wharfe, we walked up the extremely steep hill towards the centre of the village. It was probably the hardest part of the route so far and we all collapsed onto a handy bench at the top of it for a much needed rest. We had in fact worked up quite an appetite, so we headed back to the Retreat café for afternoon tea. Spoilt for choice we shared our cakes; a lemon Victoria sponge, a Bakewell tart and that great Yorkshire speciality a rich fruitcake served with a large chunk of Wensleydale cheese! The latter was a revalation. I do love fruitcake but don’t really like the cheese (apologies to Walace & Gromit). However, the combination of the two works extremely well.

This morning we had wandered around Grassington in pouring rain. But this evening was bright and sunny, finally giving us the chance to explore and photograph our surroundings. It was a wonderful way to remember this beautiful part of the world.