Malawi - Likoma Island

Our beach
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Likoma Island is on the Mozambican side of Lake Malawi, measures 17sq km and is home to less than 6,000 people, who also happen to be about the friendliest people you can meet. Going south the Ilala only docks once a week at Likoma and then five days later you pick up the returning ferry. The crossing was approx 9hrs and we felt like intrepid explorers from the late 19^th century as we slept out on the upper deck and were met by a stunning sunrise which even Becs managed to marvel at, at 6 in the morning. The ferry is furnished in hardwoods, brass fittings and wicker chairs so we felt like true colonials as we relaxed and chewed the fat with other travellers.

On the way to Mango Drift, leaving the ferry behind
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From the ferry we were picked up by a motorboat (dhow with an engine) and, squeezed in between the supplies which were being taken to the lodge, settled down to a half hour journey to Mango Drift. After half an hour chugging along and trying not to squash the tomatoes and bananas around our feet, we came around a headland and were greated by our first glimpse of our desert island hideaway. Along an endless stretch of sand were huddled small bamboo bungalows, each draped in bright pink bourgainvillea. In the centre of this small settlement was the bar and eating area, is built around and under a tree in full foliage and, again, almost draped in camouflaged by beautiful flowers. The bordering water was glassy-clear and all you could hear was the sound of the waves lapping at the shore.

Morning glory!

On the ferry to Likoma
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Needless to say, we threw ourselvse into spending our days sunbathing, slumbering in hammocks, snorkelling (choking for me) and walking into the village for the World Cup games (a reluctant 5km hike).

There is no crime on the island so our night hikes back to the lodge after games were uneventful, if stumbloing affairs along the rocky moonlit path.After the England match however we were half way back when we heard a groaning on the path in front of us. Fearing attack, we waved our spotlights around and saw in front of us not some errant, angry crocodile but a very drunk man, literally lying moaning on the floor and spitting our 'Mango Drift, Mango Drift' in his amusing, drunken attempt to help us. We stepped over him as he thrashed his arms about wildly a thought that wa the end of it until, a few minutes later, we heard him shouting behind us, clearly on his feet and in hot pursuit. Although too drunk to be of any harm it was a little unnerving and my imagination ran as wild as normal. Maybe there'sno crime on Likom because they're simply too pissed.

Fishing
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On the island there is an impressive Anglican Cathedral of St Peter which was completed in 1905. We spent 20mins listening to the nuns and the singing. Not accustomed to Catholicism, I mistakenly took them for a 'woman's group' meeting, clearly not noticing their habits and much to Becs's amusement. On our penultimate day on Likoma a boat chugged upto the shore and suggested that we visit nearby Chizumulu Island which was apparently even more detached from the mainland with stretches of azure water and white rocky outcrops (more poetic licence from the Lying Planet as the white is actually guano). We took up the offer and headed off in the boat.