Tanzania - Arusha Maasai visit

When I wasn't working myself up into an arthritic state updating the blog whilst Chris sodded off up the mountain, I took the opportunity to learn a bit more about the Maasai communities around Arusha.

Contrary to the contrived Maasai tour we had done whilst on the Mzungu meat wagon (all 28 of just staring whilst the Maasai jumped up and down before trying to sell us some jewellery), it was just myself and the guide, Lema, that headed off to a local community.

Droopy boobs

The village we were going to visit was 40 strong, and not so much a community as a family, as all 40 villagers were related. Very closely in fact, as the head of the village was the lucky husband of no less than 6 wives and Father (well probably) to their 33 children. A busy man, you might think . . . but think again. Apart from the arduous task of deciding which wife's hut to sleep in each night, the Maasai man does bugger all, with the women doing everything from domestic chores to building the family home

Amazingly that day, the man of the hut had actually dragged himself to market with the younger 'warrior' boys so I was left to chat with four of his wives. I was full of questions for them about how they all got on, whether they got jealous of each other etc and they, in turn, had as many questions for me.

In fact, they found it very hard to comprehend how I coped as an only wife. All the wives in this particular village have very sisterly relationships and pull together to help life run smoothly. They look after each others children, cook together, clean together and are more companions in arms than the adversaries you would imagine them to be. They nearly fell off their stools when I told them that Chris did his fair share of housework.

The women were candid about the fact that they do not actually love their husband as such. The whole set up is completely functional, there for the purposes of procreation. In fact, the man will not marry his intended until she has become pregnant. If she doesn't fall pregnant within a couple of years of the engagment then he will break off the arrangement and send her home to her parents.

From what they had to say, there is absolutely no jealousy between the women and they view each other as equals. If the husband comes to, say, wife number three's hut one night, and she has that headache, he will simply go to another wife's hut. Traditionally, if a stranger arrives at the village and is roughly the same age as the husband, he is allowed to 'plant his spear' (both literally and euphemistically) and spend the night with any wife he chooses. I guess it's a way of keeping the gene pool varied.

Despite the fact that we were talking through a translator, there was a genuine bond between us and much laughter. We got to talking about ageing and I was telling them how many women in England do everything they can to hide the signs of ageing. They could not believe this as in the Maasai community, age means respect and they grow prouder as they grow older. They were particularly amused when I told them of how many women now have breast enlargements and they rolled ariound laughing as they told me how excited they get when they realise their boobs are drooping after they have children. The droopier the better as it means they are out of the way!

Life is changing fast in the Maasai communities and Lema believes there will be no true Maasai left in 20 years or so. Everything they are being taught discourages them from living according to their traditions. The children now have access to education which is excellent, but they are not allowed to wear their traditional clothes and it is constantly drummed into them how people 'should' live.

There is huge social snobbery towards these people and consquently the Maasai are aspiring more and more to live like town dwellers. This is clearly visible in their changing living arrangements. Traditionally, the roofs of their earth homes are thatched, but are increasingly being built with corrugated iron roofs. Contrary to thatch, the modern roofs actually manage to make the huts warmer in summer and colder in winter so in many respects are less desirable. But these are the social pressures which are changing them

Additionally the Church, largely driven by Western missionaries, is putting enormous pressure on them to turn away from their polygamous lifestyle. Although I certainly couldn't share Chris with five other wives and I'm sure he himself would say that he has enough on his hands with just me anyway, I just don't think it's our place to impose monogamy on them. Their social system works very well in its own context and the spread of HIV/AIDS in these communities is currently lower than in more 'modern' Tanzanian communities. Presumably when you've got six wives to choose from your less likely to stray.

Who are we to say what is right and what is wrong. Sometimes there is just what works.