Nepal: Pohkara & Trekking

Foot bridge
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Wendy and I arrived into the  Kathmandu Airport, which looks like more of an American Highschool than an international airport. It cost $30 (USD) for the visa, given upon arrival at the airport. We took a taxi to the Thamel, an of Kathmandu. The taxi drivers will try to take you to a hotel of their choice, but if you decide to stay there the ride is free, otherwise the ride is 350 Nepal Rupees [$1 USD= 70 Nepali Rupee], so if the place is nice it may pay to stay there.

At first we only spent one night in Kathmandu, mostly at an outside restaurant listening to a live cover band, and talking to some other travelers. There are many power outages in Kathmandu, so be patience, we took a cycle rickshaw (there are no auto-rickshaws in Nepal, YES!) in the pitch black, I'm glad the driver knew where we were going, cause we sure didn't.

Ghorepani, a taste of the Annapurna Circuit.

Tovah in the trail
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We headed out of Kathmandu the next morning to go to the mountains. We took a 6 hour tourist bus from Kathmandu to Pohkara for about $4 (after trucking around Africa long rides don't phase us anymore). We wanted to do some hiking on the Annapurna range, but to do the whole circuit takes between 14-17 days. We only had 11 days in Nepal, and were not too keen on doing that long of a trek. So we opted for a 3 day hike to Ghorepani and back. You do not need a guide for this kind of hiking, there are many guest houses along the way with meals and beds, the trails are very clearly marked and there are rest points along the way for sodas and waters. If you can speak a little basic English you'll be fine. You do however, need a permit, which can be bought in Pohkara at the "immigration office" for 2000 rup. [Our permits were never checked, but if you get caught you may have difficulties, however, we did meet a few hikers who were without permits].

Mountain Views
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We had rented a bunch of equipment, 2 ponchos, 2 pairs of rain pants, 2 pairs of rain gloves, for about $3 for 3 days. We also bought some fleece pants for less than $4 each. All the necessary attire and gear can be bought or rented in Pohkara for cheaper than buying it or bring it from home.

From Pohkara we took a local bus 1 1/2 hours (60 rup/each, taxi takes 45 minutes cost 700 rup) into the mountains to a small town (consists of three wooden shacks, a taxi stand and a bridge) called Nayapul. From there we hiked up across the foot bridge into Birethanti and up into tiny farming towns, each with a few houses, some terracing fields and all with a restaurant lodge that has room for about 4-6 guest. The mountain farmers have made the paths really nice with stone steps (mostly the stones they have taken from the land they have cleared to farm). It's so beautiful, large ranging mountains, big trees, white capped mountains peering out in the horizon, a emerald green river, donkey's with bells tired around their necks leading supplies up the paths farther into the hills.

Village scenery
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The first day we started at about noon and made it to Ulleri by 5pm, where we decided to call it a day. At night it was freezing, and we huddled in the living room of the guest houses next to the fire place. Eventually we had to head to our room where we buried ourselves tight into our sleeping bags.  The lodges were pretty cheap, we were staying for 50 cents each, you can bargain down the price if you remind them you are going to eat there or use the "student discount" line.  However, they nail you on the food ($4-5/dish), mostly because it has to be brought up the hills by donkey.

Tovah on foot bridge
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The second day we hiked to Ghorepani and up to Poon Hill. Poon Hill is best viewed at sunrise because it's the clearest time, you can see all the Annapurna mountain peaks. We hiked there during the day and after getting through the snow decided that sunrise wasn't for us, we would head down the next morning. That night we ordered the local wine, Raksi (rice wine), as it was the cheapest alcohol on the menu. The lodge owner lady makes this stuff herself, she knew it was strong, so strong that when she brought us the pot she turned on the music and started laughing, waiting for us to start "feeling" the wine and dancing. She was right, half a glass in and we were dancing. She joined in, of course.

Local walking into the hills
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We had 2 perfect days of sun, hiking up hill about 5-6 hours a day. On the 3rd day we came down, made the whole thing in 5 hours.  It started to rain hard as we reached the bottom. Wendy had luckily made it to shelter before the rain came down. I got stuck behind a row of donkey's and had to flatten myself (with a huge pack on) against a cliff, as the path was thin at that spot. I finally made it for some cover at a little house and got some tea (masala tea- yum).

We had heard rumors of a strike (meaning no bus, no taxi going back to Pohkara), and when we got down we found out it was true. We were heartbroken, all we wanted were hot showers and clean clothing and now we were stuck. We sat down (at 3pm) to rest and sulk, when a group of 16 Koreans rolled up in the same situation, but they had cell phones and called the Hotel to remind them if they didn't send a van for all of them, the lot wouldn't be able to spend their money at that establishment that night. It worked, at 7pm there was a van, and they were kind enough to pack us in. Wendy fit perfectly in the little aisle. We sang songs all the way back. I have no clue what songs they were, but we chanted "Pop song" a lot. If it wasn't for those Koreans we would have had to hike 45 minutes back into Birethanti to find lodging.

Us at Poon Hill
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Back in Pohkara we spent a few days relaxing and eating momos and delicious Tibetan food. Mostly we were too sore to move from coming down the mountain.  Our legs were so stiff we walked very slowly and often had to hold onto the railings of stairs. When we could move a little more quickly we bought a ticket for the tourist bus back to Kathmandu. The "tourist" bus station is on the south side of Pohkara, it's a parking lot with an excellent view of the white capped mountain peaks.

Wendy in the snow at Poon Hill
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Our drive back was extremely scenic, and at times frightening. There are many overturned trucks that have driven off the side of the "highway" often breaking through the barricades and landing in shatters. We took many pictures out of the window of the farming hills, river bed, and of the many foot bridges and at times lines that run from one side of the river to the other. We even saw locals sliding themselves across these cords 200 meters above the river bed and rocks. Nepal's mountains are a outstanding and worth all the sore leg pain and freezing cold nights.