Finding Nemo, for reals: Great Barrier Reef/Cairns Day 2

We were up early to catch a cab to the reef terminal in town for our Great Barrier Reef excursion. We checked in and boarded the ReefQuest boat at 8:00, where they gave us the diving equipment we needed (including the dreaded wetsuits) and served tea and coffee. There were about 50 people on the boat, but the boat had 2 levels and lots of indoor space with comfortable seating. It was positively luxurious compared to the dive boats in Florida and Turks and Caicos. Around 9:00, we set out toward the reef. While we were in the Cairns harbor, the water was fine, but as soon as we got out into the open ocean, it was like the perfect storm out there. I am not exaggerating when I say that 90% of the people onboard got sick -- thankfully, thanks to Gretchen's usual good thinking, we had loaded up on Dramamine and felt fine the whole way out. It is about a 90-minute high speed boat ride to the GBR.

We hitched to the mooring ball at Norman Reef around 10:30 and suited up for the dives. There were some misunderstandings and hitches with the equipment they gave us (including some confusion about the Metric system), so we lucked out and got a free guide for our first dive. It was terrific! Once we got underwater, we saw all of the GBR wildlife we wanted, including sea cucumbers, white-tipped reef sharks (harmless), green turtles, and of course the clownfish in the anemones (which even the crew refers to as "Nemo," as in "You'll find Nemo on the reef 10 meters from the boat"). We didn't have to go deep either to see what we wanted to see. We only went down 18.8 meters, around 60 feet. Actually, most of the good stuff is 5 meters (15 feet) or less from the surface. We got back on the boat for a surface interval, during which time they served lunch. The lunch was pretty good, the first sandwich I have had down here and some potato salad and hot soup.

Once we got underwater, we saw all of the GBR wildlife we wanted.

On the second dive, we decided to go without a guide. This was a current drift dive in which we were meant to swim against the current to one end of a submerged island, then go around the end and be carried by the current along the far side of the island, then swim back to the boat. The fist were even better on this dive; there were lots of schools of colorful little guys and some big lumbering grouper and cod. This dive was more than a little stressful -- we went a little too low, and that made me start using too much air, and before we knew it, we were in a bit of a dangerous situation, about 80 feet from the boat in sort of murky water and low on air. I was exhausted. Of course, the crew was on top of it and the little dinghy came out from the big boat and picked us up. Afterward, the dive captain (incidentally, the first Australian we've met who is absolutely smoking hot) gave us some good tips to improve our buoyancy control and air consumption. We also decided that in Fiji, we will ask for a guide to dive with us. It is frightening not to be able to get to the boat. Gretchen was totally awesome the whole time. I lost it a little bit, I will not lie to you, everybody. A little scary, but I am fully confident that we will be better in Fiji. Scuba diving is a sport, like any other, so it takes practice.

On the way back, we hung out with the crew, including one guy who was born and raised in Rakiraki, Fiji, which is where we are going next week. He clearly loves his country, because he got a faraway look and a smile while he was talking about it. I can't wait for Fiji! The ride back was uneventful, more swells and waves, more tossing and turning, but before we knew it, we were docking at Cairns reef terminal. Gretchen had a jones for a McDonald's cheeseburger, and you all know how I feel about fast food, so we popped in there for Quarter Pounders and got a bottle of wine from a place across the street and headed back to the hotel. Our cabdriver on the way back was a kick. He was a big old man originally from Manchester UK who'd visited Banff, Canada (Tom!) and now drives a cab in Cairns. He had all sorts of stories, and he cleared up once and for all for us the issue of "Manchester." He explained that Manchester UK used to be the place where cotton was imparted to England, the center of the cotton textile industry, and so the name of the city is applied to all linens (not, of course, in the UK). He also told us to expect great things in the rainforest tomorrow since it rained last night and the waterfalls should be at their peak tomorrow. Can't wait!

We got back to the room and took well-earned and long-desired hot showers, enjoyed our bad food and delicious wine, and popped in a copy of "My Big Fat Greek Wedding," which we'd picked up at the mall yesterday. It is early to bed tonight so we are ready for an early pickup tomorrow. Tomorrow is our last day in Cairns. I can't believe how quickly this trip is going by!