Sentimental Johnny - Flogging Molly
From 100 Years of Solitude in Cusco, Peru on Jun 07 '07
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Cuzco, Peru 6-08-07
What´s the highest city in the world? Wrong, La Paz, Bolivia. Cuzco is second, but darn if it doesn´t feel like numero uno. I was totally out of breath after walking up half a block and for the first time in my life exerienced a bit of altitude sickness with headaches and slight queeziness. I´ve lived in Vermont, Utah and skied a big chunk of the mountains all over this globe but oof, Cuzco is above and beyond in the altitude department. 3408 meters above sea level to be exact. You can do the math for feet, but belive me, it´s high, especially since it´s a hill walking town. But breathless walks aside, it´s a great place. Very colonial with big town squares surrounded by Spanish archtiecture and churches abound. The people are just incredibly helpful and nice as well. I was lucky enough to be there for the Corpus Chirsty festival, with colorful parades and dances. Very fun.
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So to exemplify how nice these folks are, on day two I rented a dirt bike (yes it was only a Honda XR 250, Liam) to explore nearby Inca sites. After a missed turn the paved road dead ends in this tiny little town. I get off the bike to ask directions in my gringo spanish ´umm, donde es, uh here?´¨ Well, the whole town it seemed circled round me and the map, pointing me up this dirt road to the ruins. I was a bit hesitant until they started offering me food and pisco brandy (a local favorite, along with the roasted guinea pig - no I just cant bring myself to give it a go). Then some old ladies have me exchanging email addresses with them. Odd in a old meets new world way, but wonderfully charming. It was just a few minutes, but it was one of those amazing travel moments you find yourself in when you´re way off the tourist trail, usually lost, and the locals are as thrilled to see you as you are they. It is this type of interaction that is so hard to really find because even if you purposely wander off to really try to understand the locals it just never works out as planned.
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So based on all this, I take their advice and head up this lonesome dirt road. At first I´m regretting it because there´s nothing but mountain ahead and not a soul around but then a train track comes into view so I know at least someone will find my remains someday. Then I turn a corner and the most beautiful valley opens up before me. The Inca Sacred Valley. And those train tracks? Those are the tracks for a train that people pay hundreds of bucks to enjoy the same view I´m experiencing while ripping some serious enduro trails. Later on I go in search of a better view of this lovely glacier and end up single track mountain riding with stream crossings and all. Amazing. All because I got a bit lost and took the locals advice. Granted, I didn´t see a single ruin but this was way better. I do believe I´m enjoying tavel again. - Bill
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