Back in Civilization

Some of the gang at Rocking J's
see all photos »

After the great and unexpected treat that was Bocas del Toro, I spent a few days in Puerto Viejo again on my way back, just tying up loose ends, saying goodbye to the dive shop crew, and eating at Bread and Chocolate one last time (Tom, the owner, even put aside an everything bagel for me on my last day.  I was touched).  It's funny, but for all the lack of running water, crackheads in the streets, and sandfleas biting at my ankles, I really liked the last few days I had in town.  It was a completely relaxing and wonderful thing to be able to get off at the bus station and walk straight through the gaggle of taxi-driver solicitations and con men to plop my bag down at Reef Runners and grab a club soda like I actually belonged there.  I knew what I was doing and where I was going, and didn't have that goggle-eyed, "help-me-because-showing-up-in-a-new-place-has-turned-me-into-an-idiot" look that no one can seem to avoid.

Four ninjas on the Reef Runners porch
see all photos »

So I spent the last two days staying at the "tent hotel" at Rocking J's hostel, which was a fun, if a bit unrefined, experience.  It was (mercifully) mosquito-free inside my tent, and that was all I could have really asked for.  A bit of an interesting moment was at the dive shop when a local crackhead that Dave (the Reef Runners owner) came by and started harassing one of the divers.  I had told the guy to get lost only half an hour earlier, so I yelled at him to get out, then Dave kind of flipped on him.  Apparently this guy isn't really welcome anywhere in town, and it almost got physical as Dave gave him the staredown and a whole lot of yelling.  He stumbled off to find somewhere else to steal beer, and the situation was diffused, but it was a close-run thing for awhile.

Dave laying down the law
see all photos »

So yeah, other than that, a good last few days.  Met a girl named Ashley from the Hamptons and we got to talk New York for a long time, which was refreshing.  I hadn't had a good New Yorker encounter for far too long, so we played the "who do you know" game (her sister went to Colgate) and compared summer camp stories and bar/bat mitzvah themes.  What can I say?  It's what us suburban New York kids do.

Just got into San Jose again today and spent an absurd amount of time in the shower.  For the first time in six weeks, I not only had water (occasionally the water cuts out in PV and the surrounding area), but it was--ready for this?--hot water.  The kind of water that produces steam and gets people clean.  The kind of water that doesn't smell like sulfur.  The kind of water that doesn't make the skin on your chest go running for cover behind your back to escape the icy spray.  It was a privilege.

So I'm back, and I'm killing four days or so until my dad comes down to visit for Memorial Day weekend.  Hopefully we'll get to do the Arenal volcano, or maybe even a trip to Puerto Viejo.  Remains to be seen.  Until then...