Hot dang I like Penang

train to Malaysia
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At 6:05 I groggily come to and realize someone is pounding on my door.  I open the door and there is Elisabeth.  I was supposed to meet her downstairs at 5:50 to go and get tickets on the train to Butterworth - the train stop for Penang Island in Malaysia. The train is due to leave at 6:30

She rushed off and got the tickets I took one look at my bloodshot eyes and old puffy face and thought 'Oh God I overslept!'.  Luckily I was packed and in 15 minutes I was down the street and to the train station.  We had it turned out about 45 minutes until the train came.  Typical rush and wait routine.

ferry view of Penang
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The train ride was easy.  It was packed but we had seats.  A bunch of our fellow travelers were Malaysian Buddhists visiting Katchenburi and the temple there in Thailand.  They had a monk traveling with them and they would off and on be singing and praying.  At one point he seemed to be reading palms.  One woman right across from us spoke excellent English and she was very helpful with advice on Penang- Her home province.

We bought tickets for the night train to Kuala Lumpur tomorrow night at 10:30 upon arrival and then I insisted on a taxi  the whole 6 blocks to the cheap hotel area.  I just could not cope with the intensity of heat and lugging the bags and looking for a place when I have a truly and I mean consistently bad sense of direction.  It serves to make me very irritable and then very grateful that I eventually find my way given time and lots and lots of walking.

Very large incense
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Elisabeth decided on a room in a place that is remarkably beat up.  The rooms had huge gaps to the outside.  There was a rough bathroom at the other end of the building and there is no overhead separation to the next room.  She took it because it is 15 ringget.  I said no.  I walked around the corner found a clean place with a reasonable room and a safety box.  Shared but clean bathroom for 29 ringget.  I am such a spender!

I managed to lead us on a wild goose chase for food.  But we found our way through little India and back to Chinatown for Penang's celebration of Chinese New Years.  Yes, I too thought Chinese New Years was last week in Bangkok. or Two days earlier in Saigon.  But no, I guess there are 15 days from which to pick your celebration and Penang chose today.  And am I lucky to have been here.

very cute performers
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This is not a big town and the chinese section is not large but it was so full of amazing food stalls and fun entertainment such as truly bad karaoke and troops of children in dazzling costumes performing a slightly unsynchonized version of synchronized dance performances.  Packed with people time and again some stranger would look and smile at me.  Take delight in seeing me eat a local delicacy or engage in a small conversation and the most amazing thing - they were not looking to make money or engage me in a tour.  They just were being friendly.

drums lined up for drumming contests
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Too many people I have talked to pooh pooh Malaysia.  My impression so far is this is a great place.  Of course I have consumed massive quantities of iced coffee, tea and other beverages with too much sugar in them.  My judgement could be a bit euphoric.

We wandered about and I ended up buying a couple of shirts in little India.  This part of town is India light.  You get the feel and the smell and the textures but not the massively chaotic dirty food poisonous mess of the real thing.  There is nothing quite like one of these shops that sells all the over the top Indian lady jewelry.  Bindi this and that, tiaras and bangles for days.  And why does the shopkeeper say "Sir this is real gold."  Hello!  Is that  why it is packaged in plastic wrap and sells for under $3 USD?

Lighting candles for good luck
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I have four days to get from here to Singapore and then leave on the 2nd for Bali.  There isn't enough time even with 6 months.