The Shadow of Mt Ararat

My Iranian Brick of Money.
see all photos »

Iran could have been entered yesterday from Van. There was one important item still on the itineracy that had to be ticked off. Dogubayazit sits in the shadow of Mt Ararat, famed from the Biblical story of Noah and the Ark. I left Van on the early morning bus that got me to Dogubayazit before noon. The tow itself is a bit rough around the edges. There were more beggars on the streets than I had seen in any other part of Turkey. A symptom of it being a frontier town. Contraband flows in both directions through the town. A young boy stops me on a street corner with a box in his hands full of cigarettes, his contribution to the Iranian economy! Shop fronts in the town are full of liquor, something I had not seen elsewhere in Turkey. Probably to encourage a bit of smuggling in the other direction?

Tomb and Mosque, Second Coart, Isak Pasa, Dogubayazit
see all photos »

The afternoon was free of touring. There were a few things I needed to do, one of them get my hands on some Iranian money, not to be at the mercy of the cowboys at the border. I went into the biggest bank on the main street and I think they would have been more welcoming if I wanted to rob the place. Not their line of business. The change offices dotted around the streets. I find one with Iranian notes and for my EU120 I get a brick of notes as thick as my guidebook (see photo)!

The next day there were a few things to be seen before getting my bag on my back and heading for Iran. I set off at 08:30, first stop Ishek Pasa Palace. First planned stop at least. Located about 7km from town up a winding road into the mountains, the minibus gave up. The driver and his assistant are on the case and after about 10 minutes we are back on the move. The verdict was: "Problem. Irania benzine". One more profitable area for the smugglers with Turkish fuel over 10 times Iranian costs.

Entrance Portal to Living Quarters from Second Coard, Isak Pasa, Dogubayazit
see all photos »

Ishak Pasa is a beautiful palace perched on the side of a mountain. The walled enclosure is in good condition, dating from the 18th century. There are two courtyards inside, the first fairly plain, but opening into the beautiful second, with the sunshine bringing out the best in the beautifully carved walls. The tomb of Seljuk leader Colak Abdi Pasa stands like a soldier in one corner, topped with a pointed dome. Behind the tomb is a Mosque, located in the visitors quarters. The mosque itself had been in use up to recently. The second court also leads to the living quarters through a fabulously carved portal. One of the highlights of the living quarters, a squat toilet boasting one of the best views in all of Turkey!!

Harem in Living Quarters, Isak Pasa, Dogubayazit
see all photos »

Next along the road is "Noah's Arc", the supposed landing place for the arc. En route, the bus totally packs it in, so we have to radio for help! We eventually arrived at the Arc. A shape tracking the bottom of a boat on a hillside has been 'proved beyond doubt' at the final resting place for the arc. It took me about fifteen minutes to see it (thanks to the 'museum' at the site). The museum is very basic, but has enough in there to put a seed of doubt in the mind of visitors that there might actually be something to it. They display fossilised wood, coral from the stones (proving it was underwater), rivets and anchor stones that would only be used by a ship. Maybe there was something to it? One thing that was in no doubt was the beautiful Mt Ararat that was staring at us from a distance, following us since we had left Dogubayazit. It is a volcanic peak and rises alone from the hills around it, joined a short distance away by 'Little Ararat'. A ring of clouds surround the peak like a local wearing a headscarf.

Dining Area, Living Quarters, Isak Pasa, Dogubayazit
see all photos »

As we get closer to the Iranian border, there is one more stop. A meteor Crater touted as the second biggest in the world. A jagged hole in the ground, 30m in diameter. At the crater, I am within touching distance of Iran. I got a lift the short distance down the road, bag on back, and headed for the border.

And so that's Turkey. Earlier in the morning, the co-pilot had shouted: 'Irania People'. How could he spot this. When I looked around I knew. A bus load of people, the women dressed head to toe in the black chador. I'd get used to this sight over the next month!