The Quilotoa Loop, Chugchilan & Banos

Hike to the Plateau below the Black Sheep Inn
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    Packing up and leaving Quito, Ecuador, and the Travellers’ Inn today, we called a taxi and were dropped off at the bus station. We had to go through an underpass to the main bus depot and were walking along when a group of people came toward us, split to go around us, and a few steps later a guy spoke to us in Spanish and gestured at our backs. I looked at Denny and saw that he had been sprayed with what looked and smelled like mustard. Denny, of course, had read about this tactic in bus stations and just shouted an expletive and for me to follow him. When we got among people etc., we stopped to clean one another off without taking off our backpacks etc. because the ploy is to get you distracted, pretend to be helping but then pickpocket, slice open a pocket or part of a bag, run with a pack, or whatever. A few Good Samaritans (perhaps) came to us with napkins etc. but Denny would not allow them near us to help. One brought over security guards who only shook their heads. Nothing was lost, but it was a sad way to begin our journey south!  Beware of bus stations!

Ascending trail
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    Things got better, of course! We travelled on a luxury bus to Latacunga, a small town two hours south, that gave us sensational views of Quito sprawling over several hills as we departed. Quito has a population of 1.5 million people unbelievably, and NOT in high rises. Slowly the landscape turned more rural and we remarked to one another how different it is in the countryside – much more clean and healthy feeling, though still very poor. The people are pretty much subsistence farmers, growing crops everywhere to feed themselves and be able to also sell just enough to meet their other needs. The kids wear uniforms and it fun to watch them going and returning from school, a mixture of clothing discerning their individual schools and school levels. The buses stop to give them rides. In fact the buses stop whenever and wherever they are hailed and drop you off where you wish as well. Our bus south cost $2 per person.

"Beware of bus stations!"

Beautiful views from the bus.
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    Arriving at the Latacunga bus station we had a two hour wait for our “Co-op” bus to Chugchilan and the Black Sheep Inn. We each roamed the bus station, purchased snacks, and then I decided to get a haircut since there was a beauty shop. I asked if they would cut my hair – there were maybe six people sitting around – and for how much. I thought they said $5 – well how much damage could be done to my hair, which grows quickly and for only $5? Sure! I got a great cut and gave the girl $20 which she then had to take all around the bus station to find change (which is why it is always recommended that you come to Ecuador with a lot if small bills). When she returned she gave me $18.50 back – I thought she had made an error until they all explained to me that the haircut was $1.50.  EGADS!  And I still love it!

Lamb along the way
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    The bus from Latacunga to Chugchilan in the Cotapaxi ($2.50 per person) took four and a half hours to travel only 100 miles. The roads are steep and treacherous and miraculous and chock full of pot holes and landslides. At two places people were still digging out the latest landslide to be certain that the roads would stay open. The Quilotoa Loop has recently gained fame for being a scenic road from which can be seen beautiful vistas and three famous Ecuadorian volcanoes: the Cotapaxi, Quilotoa and Ilinzia. The mid-point is Chugchilan, a small village which offers two hostels and our Black Sheep Inn, a much acclaimed, award winning ecological lodge – composting toilets, vegetarian and eco-friendly in all ways. The altitude here is 10,500 feet. Andy (now Andres) and Michelle stumbled upon this area back-packing, purchased land and built the lodge. They have been running it for the last 15 years. It is truly our type of place. The rooms are built on different levels with stairs up to them. 5 have ensuite bathrooms, three share, and there is a bunkhouse/dorm for 10 people. Prices (see website at: www.blacksheepinn.com ) include all three meals (with a sack lunch to take with you on your hikes).

Wildflowers on the plateau
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    We arrived at 3:30 PM as predicted and were delighted to meet a mixture of people from Sweden, Switzerland, the UK and the US. Each night after dinner Andres asks where you want to hike tomorrow and arranges transportation and guides if needed, lunches, times, etc. People form groups and choose from among short (2-3), long (3-5) and “even longer” (5-8) hour options to and among the volcanoes and local cultural sites (cheese factory, furniture building shop, Inca ruins, etc.). There are also many game opportunities: a frisby golf course, volleyball, horse shoes, to name a few. But the most spectacular thing about the Black Sheep Inn is the setting – it is difficult to get here, but oh my gosh! (see pictures)

Burros at rest
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    Our first day we took the beautiful 2-3 hour hike to the plateau in front of the Inn and over to the canyon rim of the Rio Toachi. First we had to descend 1,000 km and walk through a narrow canyon, then climb out onto the plateau. Crossing the plateau, we walked through acre after acre of tilled and planted ground with the indigenous people hoeing. They would call out “Buenos dias” and we’d greet them similarly. The canyon view was sheer cliff and scared both Denny and me – absolutely gorgeous but scary as heck as well.

Flowers along the way
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    Returning to the Inn we enjoyed a light lunch (popcorn and coke for me – I was really missing popcorn and here they pop it the old fashioned way for lunch and/or afternoon snack) and then a power nap before setting out for the “Ridge Walk.” This walk goes straight up behind the Inn, climbing through maybe a dozen family farms to the ridge. The clouds started coming in then and as we walked the ridge line the clouds and accompanying mist would occasionally open up to reveal the mountains across the valley, a farm below, sheep grazing, or a glimpse of the Inn. It was eerily spectacular. The trip down was slightly worrisome though as the rain began and we carefully slipped home.

Climbing to the cloud covered ridge above the Black Sheep Inn
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    Our second day we took what is billed here as “one of the most beautiful hikes in all of Ecuador” – Hiking from the crater lake, Laguna Quilotoa, back to Chugchilan. Eight of us took off in two trucks with two guides and survived the road up to the crater and the south entrance of the National Park. There we paid the $2 entrance fee, $25 per truck and $10 per guide. The hike begins around the rim of the crater at 3800 meters (12,400 feet). Then we descended through indigenous farms and villages to the community of Guayama. Switchbacks and a spectacular slot canyon finally brought us down into the canyon where we crossed a wooden footbridge over a Rio Toachi tributary (2800 meters, 9100 feet). At one place there had been a slide and we traversed on a trail that had exposure as significant as any we found tramping the tracks in New Zealand. By the time we climbed out, we were DEAD – and of course, just before we got to the village the skies opened up. We waited under the awnings of a building in Chugchilan for maybe 20 minutes before we pushed on through a light sprinkle to the Inn. There we celebrated with beer and cheese before taking hot showers and enjoying a great dinner together. Bed never felt so good!

Going up to the ridge, bringing the sheep in behind us.
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It was hard to leave the beauty and comfort of the Black Sheep Inn, but we wanted to see the rest of the Loop so we hiked into Chugchilan and waited for the bus at the plaza.  The first one through said Latacunga so we hopped aboard, paid our $2.50 and settled in.  Since it was Sunday, market day, we stopped many, many times to pick up indigenous families with their bags of fruits and vegetables.  When the seats get full, the people and bags spilled over to the aisles and roof.  Denny had so many bags of potatoes packed around him that he would have never been able to get out in an emergency.  The children all wanted to stare at us, but are so well behaved and shy, they only peeked.

The homes of the Indigenous people, subsistence farming.
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The day was clear and sunny so we were able to get great views of the volcanoes as we completed the Quilotoa Loop.  The road had huge pot holes and in one place ran through a river bed and I was thankful that it was not raining, or had not been raining.  I sat next to the window and often could not watch as we road so very close to sheer cliffs.  The scenery, however was spectacular and we both loved the glimpses into the lives of the people -- herding sheep, washing clothes in the streams, working their fields which stretch up the hillsides and almost to the very tops of the mountains with little land left uncultivated.  Children were at play chasing one another and some had tubes with which they sprayed the passing busses and cars with water from the irrigation ditches.  They would laugh and laugh. 

A break in the clouds reveals...
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In Latacunga we changed buses and in Ambato we changed again.  Riding through larger cities is more depressing as some areas are very cramped and dirty.  Ecuador has only begun to package things in the past decade and the people throw everything to the ground, seemingly unaware or unconcerned about the litter.  It was like this in Chile six years ago, but had vastly improved by last year so there is hope for Ecuador too!  Finally we made a long descent into Banos, a resort town with hot baths like Denny's own Thermopolis, Wyoming.  Banos has an active volcano, Tungurahua, that "belches" big plumes of ash every so often having last erupted in August, 2006.   Banos was evacuated then, but like in 1999 when it first erupted after many, many years of being dormant, the flows go down the other side of the mountain, away from Banos.  There are posted evacuation routes however and I must admit that I was a bit nervous.  

Laguna Quilotoa, we got a ride up and hiked six hours back.
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Two Canadians at the bus terminal sent us to a comfortable hotel, La Floresta, and we greatly enjoyed our time in Banos.  There are lots of adventure sports offered -- white water rafting, climbing, hiking (though they no longer allow anyone to hike to the crater rim -- DUH!), mountain biking along the river, etc.  We watched some bungee jumping off the new "evacuation" bridge but otherwise did not partake as we had hiked enough this week and knew we'd hike more at Los Cedros.  We certainly could see why this is a Quito escape though -- encircled by mountains that go straight up with waterfalls and the thermal features and the nightlife.  There are also a lot of shopping opportunities plus Banos is known for its sweet taffy and we saw a lot of it being made, pulled, and packaged as we walked the streets.  

Trail along the crater
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EVERY South American town has its main plaza and church, and Banos is no exception.  However the Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Agua Santa has an odd decorative style.  There are huge murals all around the church depicting disasters (cars with occupants and men on horseback falling over the cliffs into the valley or river, fire, etc.) that were averted because of the intervention of the Virgin of the Holy Water, Banos' patron saint.  It makes for an interesting walk around the church.  Again there are beautifully carved doors as well.  The plaza is full of religious booths -- anyone need a new rosary or carving of the Last Supper?  They're beautiful! 

View from the composting toilet
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