A day of feasting - on a lake cruise - and in a shed!

1 November 2007 Thursday

Today was another coolish day. Whereas the temperature should be in the mid-thirties, it was nearer the high twenties, overcast and not so humid, though still a bit sticky.

The Lao certainly know how to enjoy themselves when it comes to food and beverage.

We hired the same vehicle and driver as yesterday for our trip to a large lake formed when the Nam Ngum Dam was built to generate hydro-electricity. But first, on the way, we stopped off at the Laos Zoo. I’m told that this was built around 8 years ago but that no money was allocated for maintenance. Therefore in this wet and humid climate it is in a sorry state, the weather having taken its toll, the white ants theirs.

The animals looked in good condition with plenty of fresh food available. Their coats were shiny but they were generally, by today’s standards, in poor accommodation. We saw the usual zoo animals including elephants, a tiger, bears, crocodiles, a camel and birds including an emu.

Our main goal for the day was to take a cruise on the lake. A floating restaurant acted as a pier to which the boat we were to use was moored. The pier was decorated with many lovely orchids. Lunch was cooked for us at the restaurant, loaded on board, and off we went.

Our boat was narrow and about 20 foot long. It had a steel plate keel, probably something left over from when the Americans were in Laos. In fact, there is still a lot of machinery and things that obviously have a similar origin. Nothing much goes to waste in this country. Everything seems to have a use and is ingeniously adapted. The boat was driven by a very noisy car motor - adapted for the purpose.

There were wooden plank seats along the sides, a table ran down the middle and our food was set out here. Another magnificent feast, which consisted of absolutely perfectly cooked whole fish - something like a bream which was no doubt from the lake. There was a hot green papaya salad, hot enough to blow your head off. White rice and sticky rice, (I’m addicted to it), soup and other dishes all too delicious for words to describe. The obligatory Beerlao and Johnnie Walker Black Label were there in quantity. The Lao certainly know how to enjoy themselves when it comes to food and beverage.

The scenery was spectacular with lots of small islands scattered all over the lake. By the time we had finished lunch, we had reached one of them. The boat was nosed into shore and we stepped from the long overhanging bow onto dry land. It was good to walk around, loosen up stiff legs and check out the plant life. Soon it was time to head back across the lake - a happy group enjoying each other’s company.

On our way back to town, we took a detour 10 kms up a rough dirt road to visit a tri-coloured Buddha. The copper, bronze and maybe brass Buddha is kept in an $8000 safe while a new temple is being built nearby. The safe had to be unlocked for us to admire Buddha and for the Lao family to buy some talismans and make a donation. Off we set again – not for home but to another sacred site, this time a stump which has significance to them but the story got lost for me somewhere in the translation.

It was after seven when we got back to Vientiane, so again we had dinner out. Yet another place was chosen. This one was in an area that was surrounded by water. It was covered by what can only be described as a huge farm shed; an open, iron canopy covered by some water proof material. There were no sides. They are just not needed in this climate. There were 32 of us but we just made no impression on the number already there since the place seats 700+ diners. It was awe inspiring and the only way I was going to remember the event was to jot down some notes while still there….

“Chop sticks; various meats including beef, chicken, duck, fish and offal of various kinds; leafy vegetables; noodles; self-service, charcoal burning braziers in the centre of long, long bare tables; plastic chairs; ‘char boys’ who topped up or dampened down the braziers as needed; aluminium steam boats to go on the braziers; lots of steam; sauces; everybody enjoying themselves; fresh fruit; ice-cream by the freezer full; muddy car-park; endless Beerlao; young and old together; loud CD music; generally noisy; uncooked, uneaten food returned to serving area - no wastage; only resident westerners (falangs) know of this place; frequented by the more affluent younger locals so must be good; our group included the only falangs present – and all this for USD3 per head.” What a night!