Info. for people moving to South Korea

Me and my adorable Kindy students!
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If you're really interested in living and working in South Korea, here is my opus on the subject:

If you are interested in working and living abroad and want to make some of the best money doing it, consider South Korea. While the "Hermit Kingdom" can be a bit boring, polluted, and homogeneous, it will be worth your while to branch out and come to this comfortable Asian nation. There are still many interesting things to do culturally and it is a great jumping off point for travels to Southeast Asia, China, and Japan. It also is one of the highest paying countries to teach English in, especially for inexperienced teachers. Here are some helpful websites and info.:

• It is one of the highest paying countries to teach English in

  Work ‘N Play (www.worknplay.co.kr) is a great job and resource guide for Korea.

• English Kong (www.English Kong.com) helps you find jobs in Korea and connects you with other expats. It also has information about things to do and see, including a monthly calendar.

• English Spectrum (www.English spectrum.co.kr) is helpful for looking at what jobs are available in specific cities in Korea.

• Dave’s ESL Café (www.daveseslcafe.com) has a very helpful Korean job board and advice on living in Korea, as well as teaching tips.

• Tour 2 Korea (www.tour2Korea.com) is a good place to learn about South Korea and finding fun things to do while you are here.

• Blue Yo-Yo (http://www.blueyoyo.com/) is where you can download recent movies and TV shows in English for a fee of $15 a month. Also a place to meet people and check out classified ads.

• Korea Herald (www.Korea herald.com) is the major English newspaper in Korea. Get your current events online as well as information about services for foreigners.

• Seoul Selection (www.seoulselection.com) This is the main English publication in Seoul and it's THE way to stay on top of what's going on in town. It's free around Seoul or is a cheap subscription. They also have an english bookstore on Korean topics and includes Korean movies with English subtitles.

Books

• Culture Shock! Korea: A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette (Sonja Vegdahl and Ben Seunghwa Hur) This is a very interesting and informative book, with various good resources as well as a nice history of Korea. However, a lot of the etiquette I have found to be unneccessary because it mostly relates to businesspeople. Koreans are very forgiving of foreigners and therefore are surprised if you show the etiquette. There are some basic forms of etiquette (check the next blog about this) that are oh-so-neccessary. I think it's a good primer to read before you get here, but you probably won't open it back up after your first week or two.
• Lonely Planet Guide Korea Lonely Planets are great guides. We got the Moon Guide and it was terrible. There are not many guides for Korea, as this is not a popular toursit destination....But, it's good to have one because it gives you a lot of needed info.
• Any Korean Phrasebook It's good to have one and there aren't many to choose from, so take your pick.
• Pimsleur Korean This is an audio tutorial that is pretty good at getting you used to basic and neccessary phrases. I don't have an ear for Korean, but is has really helped my husband and it a good way to learn the basics of a language.
• First Time Asia (Rough Guide) This has a small section devoted to Korea which is pretty nice, but what it's really good for is planning all our vacations! It's a great resource because it tells you a bit about each country, how much you should expect to pay on a daily budget, the monsoon season dates, etc. It's GREAT!!!
• Korea Calling This book, by Allegra Specht and Jay Freeborne, has a lot of great resources for teaching, living, and working in Korea. It is by a couple who taught here in Korea, so they have practical advice.

The DL:

If you want to work in South Korea (legally) you need an E-2 visa. It's good for a year and your employer procures it for you. In order to get one, you have to have a BA in any subject and they will want your college diploma to verify this (they give it back). It's best to get that all done before you leave your home country, otherwise you have to do a "visa run" when you get here. This is basically a trip to Japan (which your employer may or may not pay for) to get your visa.

Most expats teach at Hagwons, the private English academies. It's best to go with the major franchise corporations, as they are generally considered to be better about honoring your contract. The public schools are also a good place to work in terms of hours and money, but those jobs are harder to come by and the class size is about triple the size. The hours at the academies are longer, but they have great resources available to you and you get nice paid vacation and holidays.

You should not accept a contract with anything less than the following benefits, as these are what all legally working teachers receive in this teacher's market:

• starting wage of 2.0 (or more, if you can get it) million won (about 2,000 USD) per month
• Working no more than 35-40 hours a week (many people work less than that)
• Korean national health care benefits
• paid vacation of at least 10 days a year plus national holidays
• paid accommodation (you cover the utilities) which is a studio apt. (couple housing should be bigger) that is furnished and provides a stipend for dishes, etc.
• the company should pay into the Korean pension plan. You will have about 100 bucks taken out a month and the company pays in the same amount as you. You get to take this home with you when you leave Korea....that's an extra 100 added to your wage each month!
• paid round trip ticket to and from Korea
• a month's salary severance pay on completion of a year contract (the severance should be for EACH contracted year and should be paid when leaving the institution)

If you are an experienced teacher and plan to live in or around Seoul, you should be receiving at least 2.1-2.4 for salary. Do your research because this really is a buyer's market. If you don't have experience, you may receive less than 2.0 for areas outside of Seoul.

Do I need ESL teaching certification?

No, but it is recommended as it gives you precedence over other applicants and could garner a higher wage. It's not necessary, though. You must have a college bachelors degree (in any subject).

Can I teach private lessons?

Yes and no. Legally, no. Does everybody do it? Yes. You will be stopped on the street, asked by other teachers....it's great non-taxed money. There are many teachers who live in Korea on a traveller's visa (they leave the country every three months) and they only teach private lessons. If caught, though, you can be deported and/or fined...so proceed at your own risk. Most teachers charge 40,000 won ($40 USD) per hour. There are recruiters that also help with this if you do not make contacts with individuals on your own. Some teachers work in the Korean kindergartens as once or twice a week English teachers and some teach individuals....If you do teach, do NOT give anyone your last name. NEVER have the people you are teaching come to your house or know where you live. DO NOT tell them other places you work at or people you work for. NEVER NEVER teach in a public place. Go to their home or teach in the school you are hired at. These are all ways you can get caught (and people definitely do). Again, this is illegal in Korea, so the decision to teach illegally should be made responsibly.

What about these recruiters?

The schools hire them to help them in the process of finding teachers. You should NEVER have to pay them. They ease the transition and the interview with the school is conducted over the phone. Sometimes the people you are talking to do not speak English very well, so be patient. Ask to speak to another foreign teacher at the school so that they can clarify things for you and answer any questions you may have about the work environment, etc.

How do the nuts and bolts of everyday life work?

Living in Korea is exceptionally easy. Most people have their paychecks directly deposited to checking accounts set up by their schools and most banks have English ATM options and will eventually understand what you need. Over here, everything is pretty cruisy once you have done it once. There are major grocery store chains here, as well as E-Mart (Korea's answer to Wal-Mart). Korea is incredibly westernized, so you will find everything you need and a lot of things you don't need! Seoul has a great subway and bus line and you can find maps in English to assist you. English is used often here with most stores boasting English signs. However, this does not mean that a lot of people here speak English! Despite the importance placed on English instruction, Korea has some of the least fluent people in Asia. However, reading Hangeul, the Korean written language, is extremely easy. It can take just hours to memorize and sound out the symbols. Many things are written in what we call "Konglish" (a mixture of Korean and English). Once you start reading Korean you will notice that many things are actually English words. This makes your day to day transaction much easier! I know only a few phrases in Korean and I have no trouble getting anything from hair cuts to movie tickets.

What cities should I teach in?

After travelling throughout Korea and talking to other expats, I can say with certainty that Korea is the same wherever you go. It is an incredibly small country with a huge population. As a result, most people live in un-aesthetically pleasing concrete apartments. While this isn't always the idea living condition for most Westerners, we find our little corner of Korea to be quite cosy. It's all in your decoration abilities! As you leave Seoul, you will find that each suburb looks the same and is often laid out in similar patterns. The hemogeneity of the people is reflected in their buildings and businesses as well. Living near the sea or mountains is not going to be a better experience for you. The few places in Korea that are not being used to construct new buildings are used for farming or are packed with Korean hikers. This description is not an attempt to deter you from coming to Korea. I just signed my second year contract. There are tons of things to do here and you can easily replace the amusements of your home country, such as going to theatres, bars, restaurants, and shopping; Koreans LOVE to shop. If you are like me and would love a little peace and quiet, you can go on Temple Stays with various Buddhist temples for a day or weekend or check out a park near your apartment. Here is some helpful information on some areas you may be considering migrating to:

Seoul: This is the nation's capital, as well as it's epicenter for all things cultural, modern, and western. There are tons of palaces and temples to visit and great theatre that is accessible for English audiences. There is a foreign district (Itaewon) where you can grab some authentic Mexican food (I'm from LA so trust me on this), get new and used English books at What TheBook (http://www.whatthebook.com/ 02-797-2342), or shop for groceries at the small, but great foreign market (right next to What The Book; 02-793-0082). There are also foreign clinics where your Korean insurance will work, as well as English-speaking dentists and pharmacists. The Itaewon stop is on the metro brown line. The coolest areas in town are Hongdaeand Apgujeong, and Insa-Dong. To reach Hongdae, take theSangsu exit on the brown line, exit 2, turn right (kind of like a U-Turn on the sidewalk) and keep walking...on your left you will pass a 7-11 and you'll see funky boutiques, clubs, and music stores. This is the university area and it is great! On the left, right past the 7-11, you will see a small tall building. On the 2nd floor is a great salon called Headrush. The guys speak English, are Toni and Guy trained (if that means anything to you), and only charge 25,000 won ($25 USD) for a super-stylin' cut. After you get your new look, keep walking in the same direction. After a few blocks you will see lots of people and maybe hear some music. This is where the Free Market is. You go up a little slope and enter the world of the art school student craft fair that is held every Saturday in warm weather starting at 2pm. Stylish, funky, unique things can be found from wallets to journals. There will usually be some random performance art or a Bjork-like musical performance. There's also a ton of great restaurants, bars, cafes, and boutiques all in that area. Not far from there is the B-Boy Theater where you can check out the newest craze in Korea. Apgujeongis the ritzy part of Seoul, where you will find designer boutiques and tons of cafes and coffeehouses. It is also home to the first Hooters (grrrrr) in Korea, as well as has a few Smoothie Kings and a KrispyKreme. However, the crown jewel of the are is Butterfinger Pancakes, the only authentic American breakfast joint in Seoul (that I know of). It's just like going to I-Hop. Great pancakes, omelets, waffles, etc. A bit pricey, but well worth it. To get to Agujeong, take the Apgujeong exit on the orange line. If you want to check out Butterfingers, take exit 2 and walk straight. Make a right (so don't cross the main street). On your left you will see a huge mall that looks like it has pink fish scales. At this point, you will make a right. It's a few blocks, maybe a 5-10 minute walk, so don't freak out if you don't see it right away. Keep walking for another 5 minutes or so. On your right (the side of the street you are on), you will pass a cool coffee shop called Take Urban. Keep walking. When you see a bright, big, four-storey yellow building on the opposite side of the street, cross the street. Make a right when you get back to the yellow building. You will go up a small street, passing on your left a restaurant called New York Lobster. Butterfinger and all the bliss that comes with it is on your left.

Insa-Dong is the pedestrian street that is traversed by foreigners and Koreans alike. It has a festive feel and is THE place to get Korean souveniers and anything that is traditionally Korean. There are a lot of wonderful tea shops. My favorite thing is the Korean traditional paper shops. There is a tond of beautiful paper you can buy and it is a must-do thing in Korea. To get there, take the Anguk exit on the orange line, exit 2.

There are a ton of random delights in Seoul, so it's a great city to explore on the weekends. There are also some good museums, for those of you that want to get your art fix. The movie theatres usually have some of the more popular films from America, but don't expect to get foreign films. You can, however, rent movies or go to a DVD-bang (a Korean DVD place where you rent a movie and watch it in your own private room). A lot of teachers in Seoul live in the Itaewonvicinity, but I don't recommend it, as it is a bit dodgy. I personally wouldn't want to live IN Seoul, but prefer it as a short subway ride from the Seoul suburb I live in. Which is....

Ilsan (Goyang City): This is the best city to live and work in if you are residing in South Korea. It is an upper middle-class suburb of Seoul and boasts a wonderful Lake Park. This man-made park may sound lame, but it is huge and nice and cheerful. It's a welcome respite from all the concrete and most cities can't boast a great park like this one. Don't underestimate it! Ilsan has an all-year outdoor shopping mall called La Festa, where you can find various corporate stores and boutiques. There is a major grocery/all-purpose store there, as well as a huge public square where families ride rented bikes or play badminton. There is a park called Jeong-Balsanwhich is a favorite for hikers and people who want to get into some nature without all the hordes that you will find in the other hills and mountains surrounding Korea. It is a nice community with a hoppin' nightlife. There is also a huge Lotte Department store, which is the most popular shopping destination for Koreans (albeit quite expensive). This suburb is right on the Seoul subway orange line, about an hour's ride. You will find it beginning at Madu station through to Dhaewa (the end of the orange line). I have many friends who have worked all over Korea and they attest to this being the best place to work in the country.

Hwajeong: This is the suburb adjacent to Ilsan and is also highly recommended. About 15 minutes bus ride from Ilsan and on the orange line (Hwajeong exit).

Busan: This is the beach town of Korea, although don't expect San Diego, CA. It is at the very south of the country and is a popular place for Koreans to go in the summer. Being popular means....do not expect tranquil beaches and quaint, colorful houses. Remember, everywhere in Korea looks about the same to the Western eye. If you have a recruiter tell you that "you will live in a villa on the beach" this means an apartment as far as 20 km from the sea. So, beware. However, many foreigners like to come here on vacation and there are a number who make Busan their home.

Jeju-Do: This is the getaway island for Koreans and expats in Korea. There are often English camps here. It is a very small, rocky island. Don't expect Thailand, but it's a nice enough place. I don't think there are year-round positions there, but there may be.

Ulsan: Not the same as Busan. Many foreigners get confused by this. Do not teach there. It is not "on the beach," unless you consider living near the big-industry factories that most likely pollute the sea they reside next to "on the beach." Every foreigner in Korea will speak ill of Ulsan. Just skip it, no matter what they offer you.

Suwon: This is a decent city, about an hour to an hour and a half from Seoul. My friend worked there are really liked it. The Korean Folk Village, a popular tourist destination that enlightens you on Korean culture, is nearby and the Suwon Fortress (an old fortress that is sort of fun to visit) is in the middle of town. There is a shady red-light district that is very similar to Amsterdam, so beware of that. There are some nice market areas and it feels a bit less westernized than some of the other areas around Seoul.

Gwanju: I also have some friends who worked there. They seemed to like it quite a bit and they found the university area to be a good time. It is the 4th largest city in Korea, much larger than Ilsan. Some places tend to offer lower wages there, so be on the look-out for that.

Sokcho: This is a nice little town near the Seraksan Mountains, the most popular mountain tourism destination in Korea. The mountains are gorgeous, but beware of the hordes that visit most of the year (winter is very cold, but if you want to be alone, that's a good time to go). The changing leaves in Autumn there is a very beautiful event, though the busiest time of the year there. Sokcho is the city where the main bus terminal for Seraksan is, so there are a number of shops and restaurants. It felt cosier to me than other Korean cities and is actually on the sea. Most of the tourists are going to the mountains, which are about a 20 minute bus ride away. I really liked it there, but prefer being near to Seoul (it's about a 4-6 hour bus ride from Seoul, depending on the notorious Korean traffic).

There are many, many more cities you can teach in if you are considering Korea, but these are the ones I can speak of with first-hand knowledge. They are also the more populated, popular areas where a foreigner is more likely to have some of the ease and convienence of home.

What should I bring? etc. etc. Check out my next few blogs and hopefully they will enlighten you!

Questions, Comments?? Feel free to comment...I want this to be a usable resource! Good luck!