East Coast Australia - Brisbane to Cairns

Longboard lessons at Byron Bay
see all photos »

After the world's most uncomfortable flight from tropical Darwin it was very exciting to land in a breezy Brisbane for the start of our East Coast adventure. We were being kindly put up by our friends from Edinburgh, Matt & Katie (Matt's an Aussie).  Absolutely loved Brisbane, with it's winding river setting and mix of old and stark modern architecture.  Matt & Katie gave us a great tour starting with a ride on one of the super-fast cat ferries - one of the best ways to see the city, from flash riverside abodes to chrome skyscrapers to the hugely underated sweeping arch of Story Bridge.  Next on the agenda was a tour of the funky riverside markets, main precincts and bustling shopping arcades before a lovely meal at home - complete with yummy aussie wine.

Rob, Katie and Nen at Byron Bay
see all photos »

We were reluctant to tear ourselves away after such good times in Brisbane but had to pick up our little orange camper van - "Billy the Britz".  Wee Billy was a giant leap up the camper ladder from our fated Wicked vans so we soon regained our excitement at being on the road, and whizzed our shiny new selves up the highway to the famous Eumundi Markets.  The markets are a weekend institution amongst locals and tourists, with an incredible array of products on sale, the vast majority made or sourced locally.  We spent a few very happy hours browsing all the brightly coloured stalls, looking at everything from paintings to toys, to handmade clothes and honey, jewellery and furniture. 

The View from the Gallery at 1770
see all photos »

We camped that night on the shores of peaceful Lake Cootharaba, before heading into the fashionable bustle of exclusive resort town Noosa.  Here (having blown our day's food budget on coffee and cake!) we were really blown away by the awesome views along the coastal walk at Noosa Heads.  The beautiful surf beaches that made the region famous have now attracted the rich and richer set (30 years ago it was a little known surfing outpost).  Despite its popularity with surfers and millionaires, you can still turn a corner and find yourself the only ones on a palm fringed bay.  That evening we drove 20 mins down the coast to meet Matt & Katie at Coolum where we camped in a great spot right behind the beach.  The following day was a jampacked tour of the gorgeous sunshine coast, soaking up the rays and having a dip on the shores of high-rise beach resort Moloolobah, before taking advantage of Matt's 4x4 skills to drive on the lovely, and seemingly endless, sands of Noosa North Shore. 

The lovely Gallery house at 1770
see all photos »

Back to Brisbane for a fantastic catch up with our friend Clare (who we met on our Nepal trek), before meeting Rob at the airport and driving down to Byron Bay just in time for a Saturday night out with Matt & Katie. Byron Bay - blessed with a gentle sunny climate and beautiful beach - was traditionally known as a real hippy hang out.  Now the hippies share the shore with latte sipping yuppies and adventure tourists but the place has lost little of that laid back magic.  Live music, good food and cold beer is plentiful.  We had a total blast there.  We chilled out on the beach, visited the lighthouse at Australia’s Western most point and Matt even taught us body boarding – amazingly Rob and Sam actually managed to stay standing long enough to surf some (mini) waves into shore!

Boats in 1770 harbour
see all photos »

The next stop was ‘The Town Of 1770’, a charming little seaside community set a little off the beaten track, about *** KM north of Noosa. [Well in actual fact Nen had to pop the few thousand miles across the country back to Perth first! - to have an induction meeting and visit the American Embassy there in the final hurdle before being accepted onto her long planned California Summer Camp. With all the forms filled and stamped, she ended up having a great time catching up with friends there before dashing back for some R&R at 1770…)

Nen and Sam by the submergable LARC after the sunset cruise of 1770 bay (saw wild dolphins)
see all photos »

1770 is a stunningly beautiful little place with incredibly friendly locals (especially Mike in the post office and Grom in the surf shop!) and is a popular place to surf, as the most Northerly place where decent waves break before the start of the Great Barrier Reef. But 1770’s main claim to fame is as the second landing site in Australia for Captain Cook and the crew of the Endeavour in May 1770. The area is becoming ever more popular with visitors, due to its amazing wildlife, tranquil beaches and stunning views in every direction. We just hope that this surging popularity doesn’t prove to be the undoing of this magical little place - Billboards advertising forthcoming luxury resort developments litter the quiet approach road to the town.

Brisbane skyline from the river
see all photos »

We totally fell in love with 1770 and stayed quite a few days longer than planned (We were lucky enough to be staying in our friends beautiful holiday home there – right by the beach - Thank you SO much Kitty & Roger!) and spent our days strolling the endless miles of golden sand, being charmed by the treetop cookaburahs and the aerial acrobatics of seabirds diving for fish. We saw wild dolphins just off shore; some even came to check out Rob and Sam’s attempts at surfing! - They were lucky enough to have a lesson with Grom – a local legend and owner of the surf shop – which was great fun for them – and probably even funnier for people watching!

modern buildings, Brisbane
see all photos »

Sad to leave 1770 but excited to be back on the road again, we had two long days on the road. As we whizzed North, the scenery became ever more lush and tropical. Our first stopover was Airlie Beach – a beautiful little town which is gateway to the Whitsunday islands – no budget and time for sailing on this trip! (we're saving the yachting for next time daaarling!) but had great fun possum spotting at our campsite in the evening and an awesome walk along the marina before jumping back in Billy the Britz. We were off to meet a fellow Yorkshire lass – our friend from home Aimee, who had come to Aussie on a working holiday and fell in love with the place and stayed! Was great to catch up with her over a few wines, hear her tales from the banana picking days and pick her brains following all her exciting travels around the East Coast of Oz. On the way to see Aimee we stopped in at the AMAZING Townsville Aquarium – here they've managed to create an artificial reef – complete with tidal flows and living coral – just beautiful. We arrived in time for the predator feeding so that was something pretty special – our favourite was 'Cuddles' the grey nursing shark!

Camping at Lake Cootharaba
see all photos »

The next day it was up early doors as D-day had arrived! - and we were due to meet Mum and Dad Wood at Cairns airport in just a few hours! So excited - we whizzed past countless banana plantations and road trains until we reached Cairns – the big smoke. After arming oursleves with the compulsary cuddly koalas and roos to welcome the Woods to Oz we made our way to an emotional reunion at the airport (yes there were tears!) but not for long as we set off – together with David and Gail - our family friends from Melbourne – on the next stage of our adventure...