The palace of the Sun King - the glory that is Versailles
From Viennese whirl and Parisian style - the elegance of Old Europe in Versailles, France on May 10 '97
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The last glitter gasp of the ancien regime.
The last breath of the most cosmopolitan and sophisticated court Europe has ever seen before the cataclysm hit them.
his bedroom was decked with gold and white material. It was here that the regimented court protocol took place with courtiers vying for a place to wait attendance on the king
Versailles carries baggage. Versailles is history. It carries a pathos and a memory of an era, a monarch and a time that was so striking in history. It came to personify privilege and for history gave a reason for a rebellion of the common people. I really wanted to see this building. A building that toppled a monarchy, a building that was a catalyst for a revolution.
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Its quite a way out from central Paris. So with my usual Marais hangover I got up and stowed a baguette picnic in my bag and headed down to St Michel RER and muttered "je voudrais une billet pour Versailles Rive Gauche s'vous plait". This strange schoolboy French that must be ferreted away in my brain somewhere got me to the right platform the VICK line to Versailles. The line follows the Seine out to the country in 40 minutes. To exit follow the human traffic up the Rue du Roi.
Versailles town itself is like a mini-Paris with wide boulevards and elegant buildings.The chateau is a real surprise as you turn a corner and there it is in all its splendour. Behind gilt gates is a cobbled courtyard the size of a football pitch with a statue of Louis VX. Two grand wings stretch out enclosing two further wings and overlooked by the baroque edifice of the Opera house. Christ, yes, it is impressive - enough to impress you with the power of the monarchy as it was originally intended.
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I wanted to learn about this great building and so took a tour for 70 Francs. Our tourguide was a dark hair Frenchwoman who was getting tired although it was still only in the morning. These tours must be exhausting for the guides. We learned the story of 'The Sun King' Louis IXV as we wandered down. His busts decorated almost every room and his bedroom was decked with gold and white material. It was here that the regimented court protocol took place with courtiers vying for a place to wait attendance on the king.
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One of the portraits had an African child with the Queen. I asked whether there were many black people in France at the time adn the guide answered that they were in much demand as they showed a pure white complexion up better in portraits. Strange thinking, but whatever. Then it was the 'Hall of Mirrors' where the ending of WWI treaty was signed. The mirrors looked strangely dull due to age.
But finally it was out into the famous gardens. I spent the entire afternoon wandering around and lolling about. There were some lovely set pieces - the view of the palace rear over the small lake was gorgeous - especially as it was flanked by statues of Neptune. The fountains were amazing, bursting out of characters from Greek mythology and the flowerbeds arranged in artistic geometric shapes.
On the whole the place just overwhelmed me with beauty. A truly special place and one of the top tourist sights I have ever seen.
It was with sorrow that I left through the gates and headed back to town.
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