Days 4 -6: Central Trentino

This area is the gateway between the German-speaking north and Italian-speaking south. It encompasses Bolzano, the capital of Alto Adige and Merano, a popular spa and resort town for Austrians, Germans & Italians.

Getting There

While this region produces more reds, it’s primarily known for its whites, in particular a superb Pinot Grigio...

About a 1 1/2-hour’s drive from Alto Adige, head to Merano via Bolzano. If traveling by car, Bressanone and Ortisei (see above) can be visited without going too far out of your way. Regional train service connects many of the towns.

Where to Stay

• Castel Fragsburg, Merano – This former hunting lodge, now an enchanting Relais & Chateaux property and spa, is located on a mountainside overlooking the town with magnificent views of the valley.

• Vigilius Mountain Resort, Lana (4 mi south of Merano) – Situated atop a mountain accessible only via cable car, this sleek boutique hotel is for those preferring seclusion and modernity. Divergent in design than traditional alpine accommodation, the hotel uses local woods, stone and concrete for its minimal yet warm interiors with spectacular views

What to Do

• Merano

• Corso Liberta – Street for fashionable shops and restaurants

• Kurhaus – 1914 Spa Hall, now a concert hall

• Castello Principesco – 15^th century home to a Hapsburg Archduke with gorgeous gardens and period furnishings

• Castel Tirolo – 2.5 miles from Merano, this 12^th century castle houses a museum of Tyrolean history, while nearby Castel Trauttmansdorff has a beautiful botanical garden

• Bolzano

  • Piazza Walther – In the old center and dominated by the 15^th century Gothic Duomo

  • Outdoor Market – Featuring local produce and great for people-watching

  • Museo Archeologico – The famous 5000-year-old Iceman, discovered in 1991 in a melting glacier is housed here

  • Dominican Church – Featuring 14^th century frescos

• Wineries – While this region produces more reds, it’s primarily known for its whites, in particular a superb Pinot Grigio, with distinctive spicy character. There are many vineyards and two of the finest:

• Manincor Winery – A contemporary, underground building created to merge with the environment is scenically located in the hills surrounding Lake Caldaro, an hour’s drive from Bolzano

• Alois Lageder – 20 miles south of Bolzano, this exceptional wine producer relies on natural and renewable energy sources to power the winery and special planting techniques for the grapes

• Trentino – As the better hotels are in Alto Adige, I recommend staying near Merano and taking a day trip to the highlights of Trentino

  • Malles Venosta – In the far northwest, bordering Switzerland and Austria, this town was a Middle Ages customs point and is worth a visit for the Gothic churches, especially the 9^th century Carolingian San Benedetto

    • Abbazia di Monte Maria – 5 miles north, the 12^th century abbey enlarged in the 18^th and 19^th centuries, sits on a mountainside andoffers pristine mosaics

    • Glorenza – About 2 miles south, this pleasant medieval town is worth a stop

  • Cembra – Around this town are many vineyards and the Piramidi di Segonzano, eccentric rock pillars formed by erosion

  • Trento – The capital of and most picturesque town in Trentino, it features a Romanesque cathedral, 13^th century Duomo, 18^th century Neptune fountain, and 13^th century Castello del Buonconsiglio

    • Within the castle are the 16^th century Magno Palazzo, residence of the prince-bishops; Museo Provinciale, with paintings, ceramics and medieval woodcarvings; and the Torre dell’Aquila, or Eagle Tower, with 15^th century frescos

  • Rovereto – With an interesting war museum and nearby massive Castel Beseno, built and added onto from the 12^th to 18^th centuries

  • Castello di Avio – On the way to Verona, this 11^th and 13^th century castle is perched on a lush hillside offering fabulous views