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Paraty - Town of Contrasts

From Wendy's South and Central American Odyssey in Paraty, Brazil on Feb 24 '07

Wendy2009 has visited 1 place in Paraty
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This is going to have to be a work in progress since I'm about to go out and take some more pics etc. Paraty is a very interesting place, like nowhere I've seen before. Many who've been to Europe say that its very eastern-European. There's  old town and new town sections, and the cobblestone streets are quite something else. Amazingly the two parts of town also contain very different demographics. The old town side of things is very fashionista-like, ritzy stores, up-market displays and quite obviously money around. But like everywhere in Brazil, its a land of contrasts and you also get the desperately poor which are mostly contained in the newer part of the town.

Last night a few of us went to this amazing restaurant (which I'll get the name of and do a proper review next time). Honestly it rivals anything I've ever been in. This is a big call, considering some of the places I've been to and seen over my time. It was colonial Spanish, littered with parlour palms, black and white diamond marble floors, huge chunky black beams, red walls, contemporary art (colourful collages), live music (an Edith Piaf singer who played guitar, accompanied by a pianist). Something quite unexpectedly sophisticated! We ordered some nibblies which was bread and dips, calamari and some crispy-fried meat balls. When the food arrived, you heard the jaws of the six of us drop to the floor. The bread wasn't just flat bread like we all expected. Instead there were two entire baskets stuffed with an extensive array of breads. Crispbreads, rolls, croissants, sticks, sliced bread, flatbread and curly things. There were three dips, a spicy olive tapenade, the white greek dip (forget what its called) and a kind of mayonnaise. The calamari was possibly some of the best I've ever tried, deep fried and served with lettuce a seafood sauce and lime. The crispy fried meat balls, well they were to die for! The taste was like duck confit, they were deep fried, but not in the slightest greasy. The taste was simply amazing and they were served with this mildly spicy sauce. So what started out as a small snack before we headed home after icecream (by the kilo here!) finished with one of the biggest surprises of the trip so far. Guess I shouldn't be too surprised since there is serious money about, but the whole atmosphere of the place was exceptionally cultured and aesthetic, almost refined. The clientele were quite obviously well-heeled and appreciative of the live music (clapping loudly at the end of each song). The wine list was also extensive, as was the menu. A place I'd love to return, but alas, do not think this is possible.

Paraty - Town of Surprising Contrasts

Tonight we are doing a Brazillian cooking class. A local woman is taking us to a market where we are purchasing a range of local produce. We're taking it back to the Postada (Guesthouse) and she's going to show us how to prepare it before we eat it. Such a great idea.  One of the girls in the group had it when we passed a cooking class place late yesterday. Unfortunately it was closed, but Jose organised this for us today. Will let you know how it goes in my next post. But above all, this place quite something else!


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