Napoli

If I thought Rome was a bit on the grubby side, nothing prepared me for Napoli!  It was the first place I actually felt unsafe, particularly on the train ride back from Pompeii in the evening.  Beggars, buskers and drug dealers get on the train in between stops, and I found the beggars to be much more aggressive here, actually getting in your face and sticking their hands out.  Now, I´m happy to flick a bit of spare change to a busker - someone actually using a talent - but not to beggars.

I´ve also been warned about the pickpockets and bag snatchers - and the crazy Napoli drivers!  The driving seems utterly chaotic at first, and horns blare constantly, but I think they have it down to a fine art.  They really are quite skillful in their swerving, and driving on the wrong side of the road.  The hostel owner reckons there is a definite language in the horns as well (one for pedestrians, one if you are overtaking or turning off, and a long loud one if someone has pissed you off).  I had to wonder if it was just a reaction brought on by too much coffee!

Despite this, and the rampant theivery and crazy driving, I still enjoyed my time here.  It helped that I stayed in a great little hostel - it felt more like you were crashing at a mates place, and there just happened to be a few of you there.

Pompeii and Mt Vesuvius were definite must-does, although the uphill climb to the crater was not my best idea given I was stuffed up with a cold.  Things were actually a bit boring at the top - not much action there anymore!  So I caught a bus back down to Pompeii and checked out the ruins there.  Pompeii was fascinating, although a little eerie at times.  The frescoes and tiling in the Villa Misteria were beautiful and so well preserved.

Spent the next day feeling sorry for myself with a cold, and kept a fairly low profile - read a book, caught up on the laundry.  Although I did make it to Da Michelles pizzeria for lunch, apparently the best pizza in the world!  It was very simple, they only offer two choices of toppings (the traditional margharita and also Marinara) but it was delicious all the same.